purse for my wife

[Mike Craw]

I just finished a purse for my wife today to replace the one I made for her in 1982. The sorry thing only lasted 25 years.

Any way, this is the first project that I have tried the finishing techniques listed in Bob Likewise's book, Sheridan Style Carving. The carving went OK, and the NeatLac went on without a hitch. The author mentions that putting on the antique paste can be a little alarming since it looks like the project is ruined until you wipe off the excess. So, fine, I wiped off the excess and let it dry over night so I could do the final step, putting on the Tan-Kote. He says, "This will wash a small amount of the antique off." A small amount?? Holy moley, I had stuff smeared all over the place. I think I managed to get most of it off, but you talk about stress! I had no idea it would be quite that exciting.

Now a question. I made a duplicate outside piece out of 4-5 oz. because the one that came from Tandy was very thin and looked and felt like paper. I asked in a different post, has tooling leather changed in the last year or so? Veg tan used to be a light carmel brown and had a feel like, well like leather. What has happened to tooling leather?

I don't think that the color on this project came out looking anything like what's in the book. Everything in there has a much more redish-brown tint. This may be the way the photographer lit all the items, or it may be that some of these artists are getting an all together different quality of leather to work with.

Now I can go back to the other projects. She doesn't ask for much, and when she mentioned a new purse, it went right to the front of the list!

Mike

[Johanna]

Wow, Mrs. Mike is a lucky lady!

I really like the depth and texture of the carving, and the natural looking color. Only thing I can see (and perhaps it's just the picture) is that you may want to beat the lacing down.

I know what you mean about the reddish-brown tint in some photos; I've noticed it, too. I think it has to do with lighting, because the pieces don't appear that way in real life. I've also noticed some really dry ratty looking leather in some kits. I don't think that the better vegetable tanned leather is even considered for those kits. Maybe the vendor feels that it would cost too much to include quality leather in a kit, or that the novice won't know the difference? I wonder how many potential leatherworkers have been turned off by the results of working with the inferior leather?

Johanna

[Rayban]

Mike...nice work. I like your tight attention to detail in your carving.

I'm not good at it, mainly because I don't have the patience for it, so I appreciate good work like yours when I see it.

Look up Wickett and Craig leather...they are in PA. I believe. I PROMISE you that once you work with this stuff you will never go back to anything else.

You are right....and I don't mean to rip on Tandy because I owe so much to them...but ...and I have told my local store mgr. this....their leather is like cardboard next to W&C.

And I'm still welcomed back to the store.....

R

[Pip]

beautiful!! what more can I say!

[Mike Craw]

Hey Pip,

Thank you for the compliment.

Rayban,

Thanks! I have been tooling for about 27 years, and I'm getting to the point where I'm satisfied with some of the results. I think a lot of it has to do with the availability of instructional DVD's. I learn a lot more by seeing somebody do something than I do reading about it. I have learned a lot watching Chan Geer and Jim Linnell's videos. As I've said in other posts, I think Jeremiah Watt's carving video is one of the best. Last year in Sheridan, I had a chance to watch Jim Jackson work for a couple of minutes at Don King's Museum. Unfortunately, they were setting up for King's reception, so Mr. Jackson had to vacate his bench so they could set up a drink station. I could have stood there and watched him stamp all night. What I wouldn't give to have a tooling DVD by him! If anybody knows Mr. Jackson personally, could you persuade him to put one out?

I have certainly heard of Wickett & Craig, but have yet to try any of their leather. Thank you for the tip. I'll see if I can't talk Carlos into ordering a side or two for the shop.

Johanna

I don't know how lucky Mrs. Craw really is. She's hung in for 33 years and got 29 years of me running around enforcing the local and Federal laws with the shoot-outs and car crashes that go with it, two daughters who have yet to come up with a grandchild, and two purses. Anybody who know us will tell you that I'm really the lucky one!

Thanks for the tip about the lacing. The only instruction I've ever had on it has come from that little slip of paper that comes with the kit. It says "tap" the laces, which is a little like saying use "warm" water...how warm is warm and how hard is a tap? I'm not all that crazy about the idea of lacing that whole thing and then busting a lace by leaning on the hammer too hard. I tapped it, but apparently not enough. I really don't know how much pounding the lace will take. Any advice would be welcome.

Mike

[Dan Hammons]

Hey Mike Nice Purse! I have found that when useing the Tan Kote a little goes a long ways. I put a small amount on my wool and contine rubbibg in a cirular motion as the Tan kote drys. When useing more than one finish or anytime I put a finish over an antique I have found that a light touch is best. The antique when put over Neat-Lac may be dry but it is just sitting on top of the Neat-Lac and can be almost completly removed depending on the amount of Tan Kote and how hard you rub on it. Its all trial and error for me .lol

[Mike Craw]

Whooo,

Trial and error is right! After I got past the antique, I figured I was out of the woods. It's amazing how, even after all these years, I am still willing to try a brand new technique on a project I worked so hard on! You'd think I'd know better, but then you'd think I'd stop and ask directions, too...

Thanks Dan!

Mike

[Michael Sheldon]

One thing I've done with lacing is to take a damp cloth with a little bit of saddle soap and buff the lacing good. The dampening seems to set it in.

However, this really only seems to work well with hand-cut veg-tan lacing.

Really nice purse.

[Don]

Great job Mike. I like your tooling...great job on the antiqueing. Keep up the good work.

[Johanna]

Mike, there are a couple of ways to beat the lace down. I use the wooden end of my mallet, or a smooth faced cobbler's hammer, and hit it hard, on the marble or another flat surface. When I do the stitches, I place them just a hair towards the top. This leaves a nice flat edge that usually I can't see any light through. Some people do this with a piece of scrap leather in between the lace and the hammer, to reduce the possibility of breaking. (Deerskin works well, too.) Generally, good quality goat or roo lace will not break. Any lace that is starting to dry rot may break, and calf sometimes does just because. If the lace does break, I do a quick splice and figure that was just a weak spot waiting-to-break anyway. Sometimes I use a belt wheel to edge the lace, too, especially if it is a flap of some kind. Other people use rolling pins, round mauls, regular hammers and so on. I like the look of beaten lace, but some people don't. I think what I like about it, what makes it look "finished", is the uniformity of the stitches and the slight burnish effect.

Two checkbooks: this one was a kit (round lacing holes- yuck!)

and this one has flat chisel lacing holes:

I'm not an expert, by any means, and other people probably can explain this better.

Johanna

[Mike Craw]

Thanks for the nice comments everybody. Johanna, I appreciate the short course on lace beating! I'll try it again with a little more hammer! Michael, this was Tandy kit lace, so I'm betting it ain't hand-cut or veg tanned!

Mike

[Beaverslayer]

Mike, nice job on the purse. I've attached a pic of the lace roller that I use. I made it out of a piece of 1" electricla conduit, with a bearing on each end, and a steel dowel throught the middle. All welded together with a bit of scrap from the garage.

You can also buy a woodedn one from Tandy. I find that rolling the lace is far easier than pounding, and you will get a far more even efect.

Ken

[Mike Craw]

Ken,

Outstanding idea. Thanks so much!

Mike