New to this 31K20 and to everything else too

[charliegamer007]

As I'm just starting out with my first  machine  I just bought the CONSEW CSM550-1 and I'm hoping I made a good choice

[Wizcrafts]

7 minutes ago, charliegamer007 said:

As I'm just starting out with my first  machine  I just bought the CONSEW CSM550-1 and I'm hoping I made a good choice

This motor looks good according to the specs. It also has a speed dial. However, it appears that it ships with a 75mm pulley. That is too fast for a leather sewing machine. The motors I get from Toledo Industrial have 50mm pulleys that give more low speed torque.

[charliegamer007]

6 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

That is too fast for a leather sewing machine

I set it on lowest setting and I did notice it wants to take off. Toledo you say!  will do some digging into this thanks just need to wait for more cash now.

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, charliegamer007 said:

I set it on lowest setting and I did notice it wants to take off. Toledo you say!  will do some digging into this thanks just need to wait for more cash now.

They may be able to sell you a small pulley and shorter v-belt. You will probably have to mic the diameter of the output shaft. Call them at: 866-362-7397, or use the website's contact form.

[charliegamer007]

Thank you

[sandmanred]

I have a 31-15 and think it's great.  There's tons of them out there and you can still get most of the parts you'd ever need.

I don't think you'll get a 135x17 to run as it's probably too long.  I didn't try but I did a quick length comparison I think by the time you get the eye where you need it for hook timing you'll be crashing the needle clamp into the body at the top of the needle stroke.  Here's a picture of the needles I run below. They are cheap and readily available on ebay.  A suffix of LR indicates for leather.

I don't see a bobbin case or bobbins in your pics.  I think it's a class 15.  You should be able to get from ebay pretty easy.  You just have to watch the little arm that comes off the case to keep from spinning, I had to trim mine shorter for it to fit.

If it was heavily used you'll probably have to replace the hook and the little pin you will find inside the tension assembly.  If worn the hook won't run smooth, you'll be able to tell by the sound.  Also check it for any burrs or sharp edges where the thread slides on it.  The new ones I got on ebay have both needed some filing on the end opposite the hook to get them to fit.  There needs to be a little play between the hook and hook driver to let the top thread pass.  The little pin in the center of the tension assembly pushes the outer disc out a bit when the presser foot is up.  They get shorter with wear and stop working all together when worn too.  If your tension stays high when you lift the presser check this first.

I also agree on getting the smaller pulley on the motor,  I run a 45 or 55 mm drive pulley.  I also added a pulley the fits over the stock handwheel that increases the diameter to about 5.5 inches.  That gets me down to as low as about 1 stitch per second.

Edited November 2, 2020 by sandmanred
add comment about leather needles

[Tride]

Thanks so much for all the responses, very glad to be here and learning from y'all.

[DonInReno]

30 years ago a 31-20 was the first industrial machine I learned to use...it’s basic and simple in every way.   I currently have another 31-20 and it sews 138 quite well.

You can’t put any old random needle in any sewing machine and expect it to work.   Don’t take anything apart or turn any screw until you know what it does.   Industrials don’t need to be taken apart for general cleaning.

I suggest you upgrade that motor - it will only make learning to sew more difficult.

Edited November 3, 2020 by DonInReno

[Tride]

Update(s)....

First, thanks again for all the input. Learning a lot.

So after watching some youtube on adjusting timing, and looking at this machine, it looks like it was definitely adjusted for a shorter needle than these industrial ones that came in the drawer. So, thought I'd try adjusting needle height, didn't look to complicated...... But.... I'm stalled because after removing the screw in the needle bar clamp, the needle bar still won't move, just seems seized in there. Don't want to wrestle it too hard and wreck something, so I'm just giving it periodic seafoam squirts and hoping that helps loosen it up. Thought about blocking the top or bottom of the needle bar so it can't move and then applying pressure by trying to turn the hand wheel, but again that seems pretty aggressive so not sure it's best call.

One other thing I've noticed while in there, is the tension release lever (part #43944) seems just a hair off, so when lifting the presser foot, the pointy part of that grazes the pin and slides off to the side, instead of pushing it in. I suppose I could try removing the lever and giving it the slightest of bends to try and line it up better, but again, feels a bit aggressive....I'll try attaching a video of that issue...

 

 

[sandmanred]

It might have been my 31-15 or another machine but  I've had a needle bar scarred up too and resist moving after the set screw is loose.  I recall doing something along these lines, put a soft metal spacer between the body where the set screw goes and the casting below, then tapping on the top of the needle bar.  I still didn't hit it very hard but once loose I was able to extract it out the top and file the burrs back to smooth.  The spacer transfers the tapping force to a beefier part of the body and keeps any forces off the linkage connected to the needle bar but still go gently!