Another Casing Question

[Chris623]

I've read everything I can find and watched all the videos on Youtube about casing I can stand.  Sounds so danged simple.  But I either start stamping before it's dry enough or wait too long.

Here's my take on it.  Submerge leather in a tray for 10 seconds and lay aside.  If I'm not going to get to it until the next day I put it in a Ziplock bag.  Anywho, when I pull it out, I wait until the top of the leather looks as close to dry leather as possible.  (takes a lon-n-n-n-ng time!)  Then I start stamping. 

I don't typically get the nice burnished look that I see on most everyone else's work I see on Youtube.  Sometimes I do, sometimes not.  If I get a nice deep bevel, I find later it is rising back up. (I assume that means the leather is too moist)  If I wait longer to start, I don't seem to be able to get as deep a stamp.  I'm using a 1 pound wooden wood sculpting maul as my hammering tool.  Don't know if that has anything to do with my results.  If I wait long enough for the color to be close to dry leather, I have to keep a spray bottle nearby so I can re-wet it.  I know I'm doing something not quite right, but I just don't know what it is.  Wish one of you more experienced guys could stop by and sit down at my bench and mentor me through the process.

Anything in my description of the process that sounds out of kilter???

 

Edited November 25, 2020 by Chris623

[garypl]

I just take a small sponge, dip it in water and make a few passes on the grain side of the leather until it looks damp.  Then let it sit for maybe 15-20 minutes and start.  Normally this works well for me.  As I work and leather seems to be getting too dry, I lightly make a pas with a damp sponge (not soaking wet) and wait a minute or two and then resume.  

Sounds to me like you are just getting the leather too saturated.  Try this on a test piece and see how it works for you.

[Chris623]

Well, like I said, I've tried everything I can think of...............and just wiping with a sponge as you suggest has been one of the methods.  Yours is the exact method I've been using on an Elk carving I'm working on.................and I can't seem to get a good separation between the subject and background because I don't seem to get my bevels deep enough.  Frustrating.

[garypl]

Maybe it’s just crappy leather?  Have you tried other leathers with similar results?

[Chris623]

No.  I'm just starting.  Have only purchased one shoulder so far and only made two sheaths out of it.........plus a few little test pieces out of the scraps.  This shoulder was from Tandy.   As soon as I can gather up some money, I'd like to order a Herman Oak Shoulder.

Edited November 26, 2020 by Chris623

[TargetRockLeather]

Can you stand to watch one more youtube video? Chuck Dorsett over at Weaver just released a video where he compares "wetting" the leather using the method you described to properly casing the leather. He does a sample project using both methods. The properly cased leather turned out quite a bit nicer. I think it's worth a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tf_mcvMLPw

I hope that helps.

Edited November 26, 2020 by TargetRockLeather

[OLESKIVER]

I have one question.....are you making your knife cuts deep enough? I have seen chucks video{ I love all his videos, he is a good teacher} but on the casing? I have tried it once, when I was just starting out, got bored waiting for the leather to dry enough to tool, since then I just use a bowl of water and a dense sponge wet my leather pretty good and let it sit for a bit, then when it is almost back to dry looking I start to tool and I get the same results that chuck got on his casing version. but I use a 10 oz. tandy rawhide mallet that I have used for over 50 yrs., yep same mallet. I rewet my leather with the sponge also.  with a 1pd. maul do you find control an issue? just curious.

 

[Rahere]

I prefer a wadded cloth pad to a sponge, getting the sponge to release the exact amount is a pain. It's easier to not add enough and come back with some more than to over-dampen and have to wait it out.

[Rahere]

I've also got a lighter 8oz maul, allowing me greater nuance in the power I use.

[Chris623]

wet

10 hours ago, TargetRockLeather said:

Can you stand to watch one more youtube video? Chuck Dorsett over at Weaver just released a video where he compares "wetting" the leather using the method you described to properly casing the leather. He does a sample project using both methods. The properly cased leather turned out quite a bit nicer. I think it's worth a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tf_mcvMLPw

I hope that helps.

Indeed it does.  And I agree, and always have, that true casing produces better results than just wiping.  Thanks. 

Watched the video and it seems I'm with Chuck much of the way, but not all.  First off, I didn't know about the liquid soap or mouthwash trick.  I think he said "just a spot".  (that's about as ambiguous as my Grandmother's "pinch of salt" in her recipes!)     Any suggestions there would help.  I've been using the 10-15 second "swim" for my leather, so same there.  The next step is where I've failed miserably.  I've just been waiting until the surface of the leather turns back to near it's original color to start tooling.  Chuck says to place it on a non porous surface and cover with smooth glass for 24 hours.  One thing he didn't cover was how long to wait to start tooling after removing the glass. ??? Then he recommends using Saran Wrap to cover the areas not being tooled.  I thought it interesting he mentioned by casing this way he gets about 2 hours of tooling time.  I've never achieved that.  Question:  So as not to lose the depth of tooling, how would you come back the next day and re-wet to start tooling again?  Just re-wet the area you want to work on with a sponge?

Oleskiver, I "think" my cuts are deep enough, but when I asked for a critique on a small feather I tried, it was suggested I cut a tad deeper. ("tad".  Now isn't that like a "pinch"?)

Rahere, I've been searching on the Internet watching all these videos.  Came across a fellow who was beveling with a 4 oz leather Polypropylene mallet.  (or could have been Polyethylene, not sure.)  He said he'd learned that he could bevel to the depth he wanted with on hefty whack from a 2 pound mallet or "machine-gun" type light taps from a 4 oz mallet and get the same results.  He claimed the benefit was he could light tap for hours and not tire his arm and wrist............unlike wielding the heavier mallet.  I spent some time before turning out the light last night looking for lighter mallets and mauls.  Any thoughts there you might share?