Jump to content

TargetRockLeather

Members
  • Content Count

    143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TargetRockLeather

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://targetrockleatherworks.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Long Island NY
  • Interests
    Avid outdoorsman. Guns, knives and motorcycles.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife Sheaths, Axe sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    everything
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Other leather workers

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If the cement in the can is getting thick due to the solvent evaporating I find that the glue lays on top of the leather and forms sort of a rubber gasket between the layers of leather. I recently added some thinner to the can of Barge cement which made it less thick (as when it was new). Now the cement penetrates more and doesn't leave a layer of rubber between the layers of leather. For me it made a noticeable difference.
  2. Another option might be a drill press with a burnishing tool inserted into the chuck. You can get an inexpensive bench top drill press for $50 - $150 range. The burnishing tool is very inexpensive. The advantage of having the drill press is that it can be used for many other purposes including drilling stitching holes in thicker leather. You haven't said where you are in the world but in the US you can find a drill press at Harbor Freight. I think this is the one I have: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/drill-presses/10-in-12-speed-bench-drill-press-63471.html The Dremel I have is variable speed. I'm not sure if all of them are that way but they are surely available.
  3. I haven't had a chance to thank you both for the advice. I made mine out of 4 oz veg, 1 inch wide using the hardware I mentioned. I used elastic for the back strap, but as Dwight said I didn't need the elastic. It works fine though and they are perfectly comfortable. This set was more or less my prototype. The next one I make will probably not have the elastic and I'll do a better job keeping my stitching straight. I'll also stitch the "Y" piece in the back instead of rivets. I used the rivets because I wasn't confident in where the placement of the Y would be and what the angles would be. So the rivets allowed me the flexibility to experiment. Here is my prototype, in case you're curious. Thanks again for the advice.
  4. I love the orange and black together. You must have had a heck of a time keeping the black from going where you wanted only orange. You could also do an all black strap stitched with orange thread. I think that would look great too.
  5. No rivet! Proper stitching is stronger than a rivet anyway. I have tested this myself and the stitching holds up better under stress. Assuming of course there is a welt as previously mentioned. I agree that rivets are used on cheap stuff.
  6. I just had an unpleasant experience with Renaissance wax. About a year ago I started using it to protect some guns and knives that i have displayed on my wall. Last week I noticed that the barrels of a black powder rifle and pistol had started to rust. I had to sand down both barrels and re-blue them. From now on I'll be using "Break Free CLP" or even WD40. I never had rust issues in all the years I've used those. The only reason I even tried the Renaissance wax was to avoid getting oil on my hands and making fingerprints while handling them to show them off. Your millage may vary but I personally wouldn't trust it again. Sounds like Ballistol might also be a good alternative. I may give that a try.
  7. I've often wondered which way is more correct. I've used both methods and can't decide which I like better or which is more durable. It seems that there are varying opinions. personally I prefer the "look" of your method (not stitching the base) but I thought extending one stitch beyond the end of the loop might be more secure. Is either method more "correct" than the other? Might be an interesting topic for discussion.
  8. I buy most of my leather from Springfield. I think their quality is quite good, but you do have to pay attention to the grade of the leather. The better grades are slightly more expensive, but decent quality in my opinion. They also sell by the square foot which I like if I need something for a specific project.
  9. Nice job on the sheaths and the knives are absolutely beautiful. If the color is too dark for your liking, you might try mixing a bit of the chocolate into some saddle tan to adjust the tint for the next sheath. Test it on a piece of scrap until you get it where you want it. I think it's just fine the way it is though.
  10. Actually, you can indeed have a stamp that works both with a handle or in an arbor press. The one I purchased does exactly that. It has a threaded hole in in the back of it where I can screw the handle into it, or leave the handle off and use it with my arbor press. This is the guy I used: https://www.leatherstampmaker.com The stamp I purchased there meets all of the requirements you listed except that you will probably only get one stamp for the price you are willing to pay. Maybe he would work something out for multiple stamps. Real nice guy too. I've spoken to him on the phone to explain what I wanted. The stamp I bought is solid brass so it won't rust and can be used for hot stamping.
  11. I predict that the Dem's next play will be to say that the Republicans are causing people to die because they want to block passage of the bill.
  12. When I first started researching leather working tools, I found this video by Ian Atkinson. He gives a very nice overview of the basic tools you would need. He's also got a list which includes suppliers. In my opinion it is an excellent starting point: The video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTfMRaVyCd4 Tool list on his website: https://ianatkinson.net/leather/toolset.htm Before the comments start, yes, he also sells patterns and finished pieces. He's got some very helpful videos for free though. Check them out.
  13. That is probably what I will do if I decide I don't like the 1 inch straps, rather than buy all new hardware. Thanks for the suggestion.
  14. Thanks for that input Dwight. I was tempted to try them without elastic. Maybe I'll try leather only and then splice in the elastic if I don't like it. As far as the width, I already purchased 1 inch wide hardware so I'm going to start with that. I'm glad to hear that you found them comfortable enough at 1 inch. It's funny, with all of the info I have read about suspenders, I couldn't find specifics such as width from guys who actually wore them. Lots of info about the appearance but not much about how to make a pair that feels good to wear. Thanks again.
  15. I understand. I am planning to add a piece of elastic in the back, near the bottom to allow it to stretch when leaning over. I know what you mean. The ones that clip to waist can either slip off or even shred the fabric over time. I purchased these clips to attach to my belt loops, though I have considered sewing buttons onto my pants to attach to. This is what I am planning to use: What are your thoughts about the "Y" connection at the back? I've seen some with a metal ring and others riveted or stitched to a leather panel. I am leaning toward using leather rather than the ring. What would you suggest?
×
×
  • Create New...