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About TargetRockLeather

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    Long Island NY
  • Interests
    Avid outdoorsman. Guns, knives and motorcycles.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Knife Sheaths, Axe sheaths
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  1. That's what I use too. Easy to work with, cuts easily with just about any type of blade. Rotary cutter too. Best of all it's cheap. Look like Springfield has the same thing for a few pennies less.
  2. That's a very sturdy looking jig. I'm sure you get very consistent results with it. The only downside I can think of is that it appears to be built for that knife alone. Too bad you can't use it for other knives. Nicely done.
  3. In my opinion, a 4 prong chisel can't make a curve as tight as the one at the bottom of your sheath. To me, it looks like you have two straight rows of holes, rather than a softer curve. Have you ever tried using a two prong chisel for the tighter curves? I would give that a try on a piece of scrap just to see if you like the way it looks.
  4. This is where I got mine: https://www.leatherstampmaker.com/ Very reasonable prices. Quick turnaround. Really nice guy too.
  5. I assume that by now you've received the maul and have had a chance to use it. How do you like it? From the pictures and the description it looks like a nice tool at a very reasonable price. I'm wondering about the texture of the nylon on the head though. It looks like that would get chewed up over time. What's your opinion after having used it a while?
  6. I find that in my scenario, where there is a noticeable layer of rubber, I can't get a really good burnish along the center. Glue doesn't burnish. That's the most annoying thing about having the glue layer.
  7. Can you stand to watch one more youtube video? Chuck Dorsett over at Weaver just released a video where he compares "wetting" the leather using the method you described to properly casing the leather. He does a sample project using both methods. The properly cased leather turned out quite a bit nicer. I think it's worth a look: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tf_mcvMLPw I hope that helps.
  8. If the cement in the can is getting thick due to the solvent evaporating I find that the glue lays on top of the leather and forms sort of a rubber gasket between the layers of leather. I recently added some thinner to the can of Barge cement which made it less thick (as when it was new). Now the cement penetrates more and doesn't leave a layer of rubber between the layers of leather. For me it made a noticeable difference.
  9. Another option might be a drill press with a burnishing tool inserted into the chuck. You can get an inexpensive bench top drill press for $50 - $150 range. The burnishing tool is very inexpensive. The advantage of having the drill press is that it can be used for many other purposes including drilling stitching holes in thicker leather. You haven't said where you are in the world but in the US you can find a drill press at Harbor Freight. I think this is the one I have: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/drill-presses/10-in-12-speed-bench-drill-press-63471.html The Dremel I have is variable speed. I'm not sure if all of them are that way but they are surely available.
  10. I haven't had a chance to thank you both for the advice. I made mine out of 4 oz veg, 1 inch wide using the hardware I mentioned. I used elastic for the back strap, but as Dwight said I didn't need the elastic. It works fine though and they are perfectly comfortable. This set was more or less my prototype. The next one I make will probably not have the elastic and I'll do a better job keeping my stitching straight. I'll also stitch the "Y" piece in the back instead of rivets. I used the rivets because I wasn't confident in where the placement of the Y would be and what the angles would be. So the rivets allowed me the flexibility to experiment. Here is my prototype, in case you're curious. Thanks again for the advice.
  11. I love the orange and black together. You must have had a heck of a time keeping the black from going where you wanted only orange. You could also do an all black strap stitched with orange thread. I think that would look great too.
  12. No rivet! Proper stitching is stronger than a rivet anyway. I have tested this myself and the stitching holds up better under stress. Assuming of course there is a welt as previously mentioned. I agree that rivets are used on cheap stuff.
  13. I just had an unpleasant experience with Renaissance wax. About a year ago I started using it to protect some guns and knives that i have displayed on my wall. Last week I noticed that the barrels of a black powder rifle and pistol had started to rust. I had to sand down both barrels and re-blue them. From now on I'll be using "Break Free CLP" or even WD40. I never had rust issues in all the years I've used those. The only reason I even tried the Renaissance wax was to avoid getting oil on my hands and making fingerprints while handling them to show them off. Your millage may vary but I personally wouldn't trust it again. Sounds like Ballistol might also be a good alternative. I may give that a try.
  14. I've often wondered which way is more correct. I've used both methods and can't decide which I like better or which is more durable. It seems that there are varying opinions. personally I prefer the "look" of your method (not stitching the base) but I thought extending one stitch beyond the end of the loop might be more secure. Is either method more "correct" than the other? Might be an interesting topic for discussion.
  15. I buy most of my leather from Springfield. I think their quality is quite good, but you do have to pay attention to the grade of the leather. The better grades are slightly more expensive, but decent quality in my opinion. They also sell by the square foot which I like if I need something for a specific project.
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