Members Chris623 Posted December 9, 2020 Members Report Posted December 9, 2020 New at all of this, but at this point, I use Bag Kote as my final finish on things like knife sheaths. I've used brushes, T-shirt material wrapped around my finger and, God forbid, Wool dobbers. But I'm wondering if any of you use an artist's air brush. I'd think they would come in handy to do shading and final finish applications. I used to use one to do fade-shading on Cellos and Basses when I worked as a wooden instrument repairman. I've seen pictures of sheaths and holsters that appeared to be shaded. So what do you use to apply a finish coat on your projects? Quote
garypl Posted December 9, 2020 Report Posted December 9, 2020 (edited) I use Pledge or Mop N Glo floor finish - both cut 50/50 with distilled water. I either spray on using a cheap airbrush from Harbor Freight or I wipe it on with a foam makeup sponge. The airbrush is a great way to apply dye or finishes as long as you thin them properly. I like using the airbrush to apply finish after painting or antiquing leather so I don't pull the colors from the leather. You can use an airbrush to easily create a sunburst effect on leather and it puts dye on nice and evenly. Edited December 9, 2020 by garypl Quote
Members Chris623 Posted December 9, 2020 Author Members Report Posted December 9, 2020 Thanks, Gary. I don't presently own an airbrush. I've used them and understand their use/purpose. I think you mentioned previously your floor finish and distilled water trick. Does that result in a pretty glossy finish? Quote
garypl Posted December 10, 2020 Report Posted December 10, 2020 Chris, the floor finish is a glossy finish. Looks like Resolene - they are acrylic finishes. Gary Quote
Members Arturomex Posted December 10, 2020 Members Report Posted December 10, 2020 I prefer to airbrush Resolene at 1:1 on anything I've antiqued to avoid lifting the antique the way a brush might. At times I will "float" Resolene cut 1:1 with a foam brush on smooth leather. Two thin, light coats seals things up and doesn't give me a super glossy finish. I do this when the project is right and I feel too lazy to want to clean an airbrush but you need to be quick to avoid streaks. Regards, Arturo Quote
Members Chris623 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Members Report Posted December 10, 2020 Yes, I've (disappointingly) experienced the "lifting" of the antique................and smearing my project. What a shock it was! Quote
Members Handstitched Posted December 10, 2020 Members Report Posted December 10, 2020 I have used an air brush, albeit, quite a while ago. But this is what I use. The air brush is self explanatory, but the other gun is what I use for the sealer. Brands of sealer differ , obviously, but what I use is ' Top Coat' from Birdsall Leather NSW. Its a water based polyurethane sealer,but I thin it out for spraying, apply around two coats, , let dry completely.... I don't touch it !!! and flush the gun out immediately after use. The small bag is just a simple example. Antique, with dark brown graduation . HS Quote
Members Chris623 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Members Report Posted December 10, 2020 Thanks for the info. Is that larger gun an HVLP? I've got one, only I have a larger cup. Quote
Members Handstitched Posted December 11, 2020 Members Report Posted December 11, 2020 Yes it is, and I just use a cheapy $100 GMC* compressor. (* not around anymore) . I clean it thoroughly immediately after use, otherwise the sealer will go hard inside the gun. HS Quote
Members Chris623 Posted December 11, 2020 Author Members Report Posted December 11, 2020 That would be far too much bother for my small projects. I know what it takes to properly clean a big air-gun like that. (100 years ago I painted automobiles) I think if I go with spraying, I'll stay with the little air brushes. Quote
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