Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted (edited)

I AM TRYING TO TIME THE THREAD TAKE UP  LEVER ON A CYLINDER SINGER MACHINE 153W 102. I DON'T SEE ANY WAY TO DO THIS ADJUSTMENT?  CAN ANYONE HELP ME?   

Edited by FRANKPKNY
  • Members
Posted

Have you checked the manual for your machine? At the end there often is a section for mechanics and adjusters.

If you don´t have one I have attached it here:

Singer 153w 1 54w101.pdf

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

  • Members
Posted

Thank you the instruction book will be a big help !    I have been tied up working on a V* Flathead engine and have not been able to get back to this when I do I'll take some photos or a video .   Frank

  • Members
Posted

That photo is of the thread I'm using with a 135x17  130/21 needle   which may be the incorrect needle class the book calls for a class135x7   I wonder what the difference is? 

  • Moderator
Posted

The thread in your photo is V138. This calls for a minimum size 22 needle. I find that a #22 needle does the job in soft materials, but not veg-tan leather. For that I have to use a #23 needle to poke a big enough hole to pull the knots up without cranking the tension down almost all the way.

The needle system 135x17 is a round point for cloth, webbing, Velcro and vinyl. If you sew leather you should use System 135x16 - with a chisel, diamond, or tri-point shaped tip.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

Worked on the machine all day today!  I Tried different needles #23,  And a 135x 16 TRI  leather #24 with that same thread. Even tried a much lighter thread.  I started by going back and following every adjustment from the book. Started at the timing belt and went through every step as the book required.  All to no avail.  Tried convertable top material, light oil tanned leather I get the same reaction no matter what. I installed a new tensioner and tried adjusting it many different ways. As per the book, no good. The bottom loop is just to large, I don't know the difference it would make , the book calls for 135x7 class needles.   I'm using 135x17  21 and #23 and tried 135x16TRI #24. Am I just using the wrong needle?  I'm going to order some tomorrow. When I ordered the 135x16TRI I told them the machine I had and the thread I had that's what they sent me. (Miami sewing machine Co.)     The top side is almost good but the bottom is terrible.   I ran stiches by hand and watched the tensioner arm going up it just seems it's not pulling the thread hard enough,  but when I tighten the spring and the tension to almost the breaking point  it doesn't seem to help much , It looks to me that the bottom loop is way to big .   

IMG_1672.jpg

IMG_1671.jpg

  • Members
Posted (edited)

I even put the #21 135x17 needle and the 138 thread in my antique Singer Patcher and it ran fine. I don't know where to go from here? 

Edited by FRANKPKNY
  • Moderator
Posted

Watch the check spring on the take-up stroke. If it shudders as the lever pulls the thread, then you hear a slight click in the bobbin area, the top thread may be getting hung up on the way past the bobbin case. To fix this you may have to adjust the lever that pulls back the bobbin case so it lets go sooner, and/or lower the hook in the hook saddle assembly. This is tricky, if even doable.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • Members
Posted

What's your opinion on the needle size?   I found a chart and the 135x17 is definitely a much longer needle length to top of eye 38.9 verses a 135x7 being 33.9 I even tried shorting a needle to no avail.

  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...