Setting a Consew needle positioner on a 206RB-1 machine. What screw?

[climent]

I have a needle positioner that came with a CSM1001 to be installed in my 206rb machine, but the screw that fits the main axle by the hand wheel does not fit the coupler in the positioner.

Does anyone know what screw I should purchase to install it?

Thanks!

[Constabulary]

I´d grind or file gown the rim of the crew

[shoepatcher]

I agree with Constabulary.  I have done that in the past.   downsize the dia. of the head of the screw to fit in the synchronizer head.

glenn 

[climent]

4 hours ago, Constabulary said:

I´d grind or file gown the rim of the crew

The screw is not long enough. I would also have to cut the coupler.

I'd rather try to obtain a new screw that is long and fits, before taking the saw and the grinder out of the tool box.

But in the end, i will have to do what's necessary. /shrug

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Thread Pitch and Dia. 17/64-24

I use Singer part number 200006 screw for mounting the hub onto the top arm shaft end.

 

 

[climent]

The one I found costs $2 to purchase, and $35 to ship.

Oh, well.

[robslc]

Reviving this old thread, hope that is ok!?  I am in the same boat.

New to registering on this site (but have lurked for a while) and to a mint 206rb-2 and I am having the same problem, 17/64-24 is such an odd size screw...  I have yet to take the balance wheel off and inspect what is going on but it seems from the parts list that the set screws hold the balance wheel on the shaft, what does part #50 have to do with adjusting the balance wheel?  Why is the screw split?

I am thinking about drilling and tapping that hole to either 5/16 or 7mm, is that a bad idea?  It sure is difficult to find Singer part #200006 or Consew #10646 (hook saddle screw for Consew 744rXX or 745RXX)

 

[shoepatcher]

Do not retap hole.  I myself would take a Dremel and enlarge the opening in  the synchronizer clamp so screw fits.  I have done it in the past.  Dremel with drum sander attachment.  The clamp metal will be softer than the screw head.  The screw is spit so that it holds snug in the hole in the shaft.  It will take a little work.  Have  a micrometer near you to check the screw diameter and hole in clamp.

glenn

[CowboyBob]

17 hours ago, robslc said:

Reviving this old thread, hope that is ok!?  I am in the same boat.

New to registering on this site (but have lurked for a while) and to a mint 206rb-2 and I am having the same problem, 17/64-24 is such an odd size screw...  I have yet to take the balance wheel off and inspect what is going on but it seems from the parts list that the set screws hold the balance wheel on the shaft, what does part #50 have to do with adjusting the balance wheel?  Why is the screw split?

I am thinking about drilling and tapping that hole to either 5/16 or 7mm, is that a bad idea?  It sure is difficult to find Singer part #200006 or Consew #10646 (hook saddle screw for Consew 744rXX or 745RXX)

 

We have Singer #200006 screw in stock.

[robslc]

Hey Glenn and Bob, thanks for the replies!

I unfortunately bought the Consew csm1001 servo motor package, as you guys probably know every part is made as cheaply as possible, including the softest screws on the planet, the phillips heads strip if you look at them wrong.  The positioner and round fitting that attaches to the balance wheel are now 99% plastic.  The round fitting and the part of the positioner (with the set screws) that holds the fitting seems like it's made out of good nylon (possibly glass reinforced) and the tolerances are good...

The existing screw is still too short even though it now fits inside the round fitting.  I'll be calling Toledo today for the 200006 screw and I'll be sure to pad the order with needles and thread and when this cheap motor dies, I'll be calling them for the Family Sew FS-550s motor...

 

Edited March 31, 2022 by robslc

[Proto1]

Where can I buy the synchronizer adapter and or mounting hardware.  I already have a syncronizer.

Also is the outer diameter of the adapter all the same? My synchronizer inner diameter is 0.875"

 

[DonInReno]

I’d be very surprised if anyone lists that for sale as separate piece, but there are probably a hundred synchronizer kits that haven’t been used and are on shelves free for the asking - I had one, but tossed it thinking nobody would ever need it.  If you keep asking around someone will have it.

[MtlBiker]

Interesting... I have a 206RB-5 and also a Techsew 2750 Pro and what I miss most on the Consew is a needle positioner.  I've gotten used to it on the Techsew and I love it.  What's involved in adding a needle positioner to my machine?  New motor? Difficult, expensive?  I mean I don't HAVE TO have it, but it would be nice.

[Bikersmurf]

I have a (+/- 2000) Seiko STH-8BLD.
 

I have read the following at (  https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71217-consew-206-rb5s/  )

Prior to the 90s when Consew went bankrupt Seiko manufactured the 206RB for Consew. They started selling the STH-8BLD machines in North America in 2000 with their own name on them. 
Soon after, a new Consew company was formed and they started making 206RB machines in China. 
 

My point being is that Seiko uses the same split bolt for the flywheel. I found, at the local Rona building supplies (Lowe’s in Canada) that it threads into a M7 x 1mm nut. I bought a few M7 x 1mm x 25mm bolts (& 7 mm washers) and tried to thread them into my machine. No dice.

So now what… I decided that the split in the bolt must be there for a reason… it is.

I cut a split in my new bolt in the middle using my Dremel tool (just like the original part) and found it fits perfectly. However, it was a hex head bolt so a socket was too big to fit inside the aluminum positioner collar. So I used the Dremel tool to cut a slot in the bolt’s head allowing it to screw with a slot screw driver. Longer bolt problem resolved.

I found there was too much slop in the collar which allowed it to be off centre. To resolve this I used my pluming pipe cutter to cut a piece of copper pipe just long enough to shim the collar to be close to the correct size. I found that the collar was slightly bigger than the copper pipe’s inner diameter. I used the Dremel to cut a slit in the pipe’s circumference (think a C where the ends of the line almost touch). Now this copper pipe slides over the needle positioner collar.

Almost a perfect fit… but the collar with the copper C shim was just slightly loose. Now this part isn’t a perfect solution, but since I don’t have a metal lathe… I wrapped Scotch tape around the copper shim 2-3 times. I started with the end of the tape in the copper slit and finished with it in the slit. I then carefully cut the tape flush with the end of the collar. The collar now fit snugly into the middle of the hand wheel. 

Now the easy part… I threaded the bolt through the middle of the collar with a couple 7mm flat washers between the bolt and the positioner collar. The tape ensured it was centred in the hole of the hand rim.

I bought a Reliable Servo motor and positioner. If you have a different Servo motor then you may need to adjust the instructions I’ve provided. It included an aluminum collar for the positioner. 
 

I haven’t done anything big yet, just configured and tested the system. It sews super slowly at the lowest setting and it has no problem with thick leather at the slowest speed. If I have it set to stop with needle down, the needle will go to needle up if I push down with my foot on the foot pedal.

This may be different with your Servo motor. I can’t say they’ll all go up when you push down with your heal. Initially mine didn’t because my linkages were too tight to allow the pedal to push the lever on the servo motor up.

With a bit of practice, I can now tap the pedal and the machine will stitch one stitch at a time. With it set to needle down it will stop in the down position allowing me to turn the material without it shifting. Once I’m done with the line of stitches I can press down with my heal on the foot pedal and it lifts the needle allowing the material to be moved out.

Hope this helps.

John