Best edge angle for a splitter blade?

[DONAG]

I used to put a micro edge on my splitter blade (Tandy splitter), but found it hard to pull the leather though.

I thought like my woodworking blades.  I was taught to hone the main face and then apply a fine micro edge at the tip.  Works fine for that, but not so much for leather.

I made a strop from a hard piece of leather and glued it to a wood board and tried a micro angle that way and still not great.  Decided to try heavier angles and found about 60 degrees creates a better cutting edge.

Odd that this angle didn't work for a soft leather I have, but sliced through pretty much everything else

Curious what angles others sharpen at?

Thanks

DON

[mike02130]

Micro edge on a plane iron or chisel serves a different purpose.  Other than making it easier to sharpen, it also assists in the wood shaving moving away from the edge and creating less drag.  I question how important that is but there are plenty of sharpening nuts out there.   A machine jointer or planer blade never has a micro bevel. 

I would think whatever the factory grind is or was would be correct.  You must have plenty of blade left to check it out with a bevel gauge.  With such a wide bevel and a 6" or 8" blade it'll take quite a bit of work to flatten it out to get rid of your micro bevel.  I'd be tempted to send it out to be ground and then maintain it's angle.

[DONAG]

11 hours ago, mike02130 said:

Micro edge on a plane iron or chisel serves a different purpose.  Other than making it easier to sharpen, it also assists in the wood shaving moving away from the edge and creating less drag.  I question how important that is but there are plenty of sharpening nuts out there.   A machine jointer or planer blade never has a micro bevel. 

I would think whatever the factory grind is or was would be correct.  You must have plenty of blade left to check it out with a bevel gauge.  With such a wide bevel and a 6" or 8" blade it'll take quite a bit of work to flatten it out to get rid of your micro bevel.  I'd be tempted to send it out to be ground and then maintain it's angle.

I had the blade ground last year as it was not flat and main face has a 30 degree bevel.  Still flat and I do occasionally do the face with my water stones with 1000/4000 grit.

I usually spend about an hour doing the face of the blade to make sure

Thanks

DON

[DONAG]

So my blade is still not up to it's optimum level.  Need to pick up some more emery paper to get rid of the secondary bevel or flatten the bottom.  Not sure what is causing the actual problem.

Odd thing is.  I watch 3 videos on sharpening the blade and two people put a secondary bevel on the blade.  One with a stone.  Second using a flat piece of honing steel

Can't figure why it's not cutting like it used to.  The leather (depending on temper) will ride under the blade pressing the roller down and blade refuses to bite into the leather at a certain point

I used to be able to cut down to 1/2 mm, but can only do that now if I piggyback the leather on top of another piece and still iffy that the cut is even.  Might try a 1/4" piece of wood under the leather.

Can't even buy replacement blades for this model

I either flatten the face myself or pay the company the fixed it up last time another $100

Thanks

DON

[RoycesLeather]

If you don't mind spending some money you should check out leather wranglers I believe he is making splitter blades now for both Osborne and Tandy models. You will have to wait to get it but it would be a replacement for you. I have not used his splitter blades but if they are anything like his round knives they are super sharp and a breeze to use and maintain. 

[DONAG]

11 hours ago, RoycesLeather said:

If you don't mind spending some money you should check out leather wranglers I believe he is making splitter blades now for both Osborne and Tandy models. You will have to wait to get it but it would be a replacement for you. I have not used his splitter blades but if they are anything like his round knives they are super sharp and a breeze to use and maintain. 

Thanks for the info, but if he's making for the Osborne model.  Most likely it's the Pro blade as both are similar (wider and longer) than the base model with smaller blade which is what I have.

I was lucky enough that Tandy had springs for the model.  Never asked about the blade, but I'm sure it's over $100US and cheaper to just have it reground

Thanks

DON

[jcuk]

Once you have it ship shape, if you have access to a polishing wheel give it polish on it every so often you will be not have to sharpen it so often.

Hope this helps

JCUK

[ramrod]

where do you guys send it to be sharpened or reground? i have an old osborne that's gonna need an edge.