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hi all, 

 

The bug is getting me.  Made a knife sheath for a knife I have had for years.  Never made a sheath before and while the friction fit works well I should have make it a 1/4" wider on each side.  there is NO excess room.  I am not happy with the tooling and my cross stich lines but it looks hand made I guess.  I drew this out and designed it myself. it is 3 layers of 9 oz leather.  

question,  How are you guys keeping the back stitch lines straight.  I have not figured that out yet.

here is a pic:

 

1231177348_knifesmall.jpg.69a1446c310ee5f83c3e3191f5e8024b.jpg

back of knife small.jpg

knife side small.jpg

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Nice work for a first try at stitching and tooling!
How to keep the back lines straight?
Well, first, how did you make the holes? 
If you used a pricking iron and an awl, the answer is a sharp awl and careful practice to build up muscle memory to insert the awl at a consistent angle, every time. 
You can find YouTube videos of Nigel Armitage using this method. He is very experienced with this, and his videos should help you get it right.

If you used a stitching chisel to make the holes, then there are a couple things to watch fore:
1) slow down, and get that chisel placed carefully. It should be vertical (not tilted to either side), placed carefully along the stitching line and overlapped with previous holes to help align it. 
2) Don't try to bang that chisel down through multiple layers of thick leather (like what you have there.) Instead, do each side at a time. Do all holes on the front piece, then lay that over the back piece like you're going to stitch it. Place the chisel in the holes and strike it to MARK the first set of holes in the bottom layer. Remove the front layer, and look at the back layer (which will be flesh side up). Mark your stitching line on that side, then use the chisel to complete the stitching holes on that line, using the marks you made as a guideline to start. 

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Also, if using a chisel, don't use a 2-prong for straight lines; 2-prong chisels are for curves and turns and sharp points/angles. Use at least a 5-prong (a 7-prong would be preferrable) and, after making the first 5/7 holes with it, subsequently place the first two prongs of the chisel in the farthest** two holes and use that as an extra guide—yes, you'll be punching a -2 holes every time and it'll take longer to punch them all, but you'll get straight lines.

One more thing: move your task lamp or position yourself and/or the project in such a way that you can see clearly the line along which you'll punch the holes and that you get as little shadows as possible from the chisel so that you can clearly see where the prongs are perforating the leather.

It might also be useful to mark the holes with your chisel prior to punching them. Again, you'll take longer as you have to go around the project twice with the chisel, but you'll get straight lines.

Once you've developed a rythm that works for you it'll all come naturally.

____________________________

**Or the 'last' holes. I'm assuming you're punching the holes away from you.

Edited by Hardrada

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35 minutes ago, DJole said:

Don't try to bang that chisel down through multiple layers of thick leather (like what you have there.) Instead, do each side at a time. Do all holes on the front piece, then lay that over the back piece like you're going to stitch it. Place the chisel in the holes and strike it to MARK the first set of holes in the bottom layer. Remove the front layer, and look at the back layer (which will be flesh side up). Mark your stitching line on that side, then use the chisel to complete the stitching holes on that line, using the marks you made as a guideline to start.

An alternative method, and one that I use since I glue the layers prior to punching holes, is to use the chisel normally without trying to force it to go through all the layers. Let it go as far as it will with the usual mallet blow, then, once you've finished making the 'half-holes', place the project on top of a cork board or thick piece of scrap leather and use the awl to finish the holes: just make sure the awl is perfectly perpendicular to the table. That's how I punch holes on weights >10 oz.

Edited by Hardrada

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Thanks Guys,

I am using  a 2 prong and 6 prong chisel.  I have been working on keeping them straight but need to get better!.  thanks too for the tips on  how best to deal with multiple layers.   I did glue my back 2 pieces together prior to punching holes.  did the top piece first and then used it as a guide to start the others.  I will keep trying!

Vee

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My first stitching attempts were a wreck, especially along long edges (journal covers).  For me it was about patience and practice.  I'm getting better checking they are perpendicular.  And its more practice practice practice.  :D

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