Top Coat for Baseball Glove leather? (on coasters)

[NeilMott]

Hey everyone.

I mostly make watch straps using baseball gloves.  I tend to use the inner part of the glove and the fingers are mostly waste...  Part of what I like about using a glove that was otherwise sitting in someones basement, is the up-cycling aspect.  On my way back from a road trip, I thought of using the fingers and some of the extra patches I have for coasters.  One of the ways to I thought of would be to use extra patches (Wilson or Rawlings), in an inset type of way along with some more standard, stitching the finger pieces together.  The glove parts will go on top of some old leather that's pretty firm for the base.  I'll glue the leather pieces on and then stitch.   *circle leather cutter is in my amazon cart*

Being a coaster, I figure it'd be best to have some water protection on them, but I don't want to change the color of the leather.  I think the wear and patina the glove has accrued over the years should been left alone.  I've searched around and most of the threads here about top coats is to use Resolene in a 50/50 mix with water.  I also saw on a Weaver Leather video a spray on top coat called Saddle Lac.  The ladder seems really quick, but for me, most importantly, it leaves only a little sheen and almost no change in color.  If I went with the Saddle Lac, I was thinking I'd apply the top coat before any stitching, as it's a lacquer based top coat.  I'd typically use waxed Tiger thread.

What do you think?  Am I thinking about this the right away?  Anything else to consider?  

Best,

Neil

 

[NeilMott]

Well, if anyone ever sees this, this is how they turned out.  I decided to not put any top coat on them... I figured the baseball leather would soak up some condensation, but it wouldn't affect the overall aesthetic.  It's used leather anyway.

[ScottWolf]

2 hours ago, NeilMott said:

Well, if anyone ever sees this, this is how they turned out.  I decided to not put any top coat on them... I figured the baseball leather would soak up some condensation, but it wouldn't affect the overall aesthetic.  It's used leather anyway.

You are in luck, as I actually refurbish and work on baseball gloves as a hobby. Untreated , the coasters above will absorb water and stain/darken like any other piece of leather that doesn't have a top coat. Two ways you can go about it IMO, is to do what I do when I've either conditioned or re dyed a glove. I use the all natural conditioner that I posted the recipe for in the forum here and hand rub it in. It will darken the leather some, but not drastically and provide some protection from moisture, as it is beeswax based. If you want the dried out and in need of conditioning look like the coasters above, then either resolene cut 50/50 or Angelus MATTE sealer will keep that appearance. Make sure you get the MATTE version if you use Angelus products, as they have 4 versions that range from matte to super shiny pattent leather in their shine when dry.

Personally, I'd condition them and give them back a little bit of their color, as you won't loose that worn look and may even bring some of the text printing out better. 

[NeilMott]

ah this is good advice!!  I bought Resolene for the project, so I'll go with that.  Agreed that a little darkening will help bring out the colors a bit and the lettering.  Should I use a sponge to apply the 50/50 resolene?  If so, will a regular sponge like I use for dishes work?

Side note, I realized that I also have the web from the gloves, which will be great for this type of project.  I had been saving them, not knowing how to use them.  

Best,

Neil

[ScottWolf]

31 minutes ago, NeilMott said:

ah this is good advice!!  I bought Resolene for the project, so I'll go with that.  Agreed that a little darkening will help bring out the colors a bit and the lettering.  Should I use a sponge to apply the 50/50 resolene?  If so, will a regular sponge like I use for dishes work?

Side note, I realized that I also have the web from the gloves, which will be great for this type of project.  I had been saving them, not knowing how to use them.  

Best,

Neil

Use a conditioner on them and let it soak in about 24hrs and then use a dauber or an air brush to apply the resolene. Plan for 2-3 light coats of resolene, allowing for dry time between coats and they should each look distinct, while not absorbing water from the glass/cup placed on them. 

[NeilMott]

for conditioners, I have Bicks 4 and Dr Jackson's hide rejuvenator...  The Dr Jackson's will darken it, but not the Bicks.  I've got daubers for the resolene... 

[ScottWolf]

1 hour ago, NeilMott said:

for conditioners, I have Bicks 4 and Dr Jackson's hide rejuvenator...  The Dr Jackson's will darken it, but not the Bicks.  I've got daubers for the resolene... 

 Dr Jacksons is primarily a Mineral oil product per the MSDS, which is why it will darken the leather considerably more. Bicks 4 is a good choice to condition without darkening that much.

[NeilMott]

Hey all.

A long overdue update on my coasters.  Here are a few of them, mostly what was above, but now they're treated with 2 coasts of 50/50 Resolene & water and stitched.  I sent some others to a friend who's be "field testing" them and the top coat is holding up well.  I haven't been conditioning the new ones I've made.  I honestly forgot...  the top coat, adding the sheen, does reduce the feel you'd get from the leather.   

As far as applying the Resolene, I'm using two daubers, one to apply the coat liberally, then a second to mop up what hasn't soaked in after about a minute (basically any areas that are pooling).  Also, I made way too much of the resolene mix, but have been keeping it in a sealed Gladware container.  Any issue with long term storage?  I'm at about a month now.

Neil