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Everything posted by NeilMott

  1. I think you hit on a couple great ideas to fall back on. Glove leather makes a thick wallet. I'd want to really be mindful of that. I'd plan on using the glove for the outer shell, of a bifold wallet for instance, then line it with normal thin leather. As for skiving the edges and also for the french seam, I saw a baseball glove wallet maker use this type of skiver. It is a pain to skive used glove leather to be sure! https://www.ebay.com/itm/294552741372?epid=17019894518&hash=item4494b625fc:g:XncAAOSwXoRhk2PZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8N88rBVyUSTaZveVBzGZQe7qJG7iKd%2BdRX3KJRlSmK%2BF99WD3f63P4jKKpxdEsKE5kPhfh7rDdbEMxFh9S7zFvnjP%2F4fUuYJo7ZZ8IuGrH6Ny1hDtIpbLknrrrCw300BEMv%2BVcnBiljvZgpddSza6214wLD97%2FkNP9uJl3vjXnwxpSzKdh653StLxTCBlPCj5NouuBX2ElW52yDJggREnEmFa6qsL2XVh8HbcSoc2p4UFSURyGPL%2FRMr9YwzRqN0k1hY1jMQbRaHtcR4js6%2F7HYcqfxfqa7uVbc2wN8DXod39%2B3WORBCwouXLs2BOT56BQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM-oS7oONg I think this is a knock off the original Scharffix, which I think is around $300. Neil
  2. Hi again. Hoping to gain some traction with some different questions. As I look more and more about how to put these together from small gloves, I'll probably need to do a french seam (felled seam) on some to piece parts together, and so a lining leather would look the best. Plus, it's hard to get the flesh part of a glove really clean. As far as thickness, what do you recommend? One maker said 1 ounce leather, Walpier Buttero. 1 ounce seems pretty thin, but this guy makes a lot of them. As far as type of leather, some makers are using Steerhide. I've got a few smaller sides of oil tan leather from Springfield in tan that may look the part as well. Not sure if it'd be too stiff. Thanks, Neil
  3. Hey all. Not exactly what is asked for, but here's a hole punching tool I found a little while back. I may take a bit of the stress out of punching holes. https://www.etsy.com/listing/997280427/beltstrap-center-punch-guide?click_key=ee43145a07339bf4032e0768de24c10ece9f67ea%3A997280427&click_sum=a20898a9&ref=price_range_narrowing_module_market-3&frs=1&sts=1 They also have their own site as well. Neil
  4. Hey all. I mainly make watch straps from baseball gloves. Lately I've bought some really old gloves with logos of baseball players in action. The logos are too big for a strap, so I thought about making wallets. Unfortunately, I'm new to wallets. So, after a lot of google'ing of designs, I tried to make a 3 pocket wallet. I used some beat up glove parts from a catcher's mitt and some red Horween baseball glove leather. I kinda threw it together to get a feel for it. I did some things out of order and forgot a few things. I was going to finish the edges with Tokonole after stitching, but I couldn't get my irons through the wallet since it was so thick (10mm). After looking at a number of designs, it seems the big issue is how thick glove leather is, which I found to be the case on my sample wallet. I find glove leather to be 2-2.5mm thick. So, either the wallet will be made of entirely glove and be small, or the wallet has a shell of baseball glove and the lining and other bits being new/normal leather. Recognizing that gloves don't provide a lot of leather, I'm hoping to have a small card wallet and one that's a bit bigger. For both, I'd like to have some place to store bills. For a money clip, I'd prefer to use this style: Here are a couple designs that I like. http://www.leathercove.com/bifold-card-wallet-pattern-pdf/ https://fcgoods.com/collections/wallets/products/bifold-card-case-money-clip Thanks in advance for your thoughts, Neil
  5. I make watch straps mainly out of baseball gloves. They're soft and thick, but I wear big watches mostly. For conditioners, try Bicks 4. I use it when any of my leather is too stiff (from an old glove for instance). But in general, there is no reason a watch strap should come to you stiff, in my opinion. Walpier Buttero is a good leather to try for a watch strap. I'd say any leather described as medium to soft hand should work. Also can depend on hole placement how it feels. If you're too tight or too lose, try a different size watch buckle. Neil
  6. thanks! really like how they turned out. I've got a few more in process and will post when they're done. I also just ordered more shackles in bronze, steel and gunmetal . Neil
  7. Rich, these look great! I bought the template from Makers Supply and have tried out a few. I'm wondering what leather you find works best - size and tannage. I'm looking at a few oil tans because of the great pull up. One is 3-4 oz (1.6-1.8mm) thick and the other is 4-5 oz (~2mm thick). If you have a source and size for those shackles, that'd be appreciated as well. Best, neil
  8. Hey all. I'm thinking of making leather valet trays and found some amazing looking oil tans on Springfield's site. Wondering if this type of leather would be good for valet trays. I don't plan on wet forming them, and understand I couldn't with oil tan leather. I bought a valet template from Maker's supply and would probably stitch in a different leather for the bottom to make it more formal and add rigidity. Here are the oil tans I'm considering: https://www.springfieldleather.com/Vintage-Gold-Rush-Buffalo https://www.springfieldleather.com/SLC-Oil-Tan-Cowboy-Collection?quantity=1&color=206 (probably the vintage and oxblood). As a side note, I'd probably explore using these for watch straps, as that's the main item I make currently. Thanks! Neil
  9. Hi Matt. I appreciate the link and clarification. Ideally, this splitter would be used enough it'd warrant being out all the time. Right now, 95% of what I do is watch straps, so making keepers would be a common thing. I also use leather that is typically 2mm or thicker, too thick for a keeper in my opinion. I am at first thinking this might be a quicker way to thin the leather I use for keepers. While almost everything I do is by hand, having a way to thin the leather I use, quickly and consistently is what I'm after. It's not like I can't do it by hand, but in theory this would be quicker and free up some time. I might also be able to (if necessary) thin out some thicker leather as well. I have some bison that has a very messy flesh side that I may use the splitter to remove. Any saved time = tiem for other straps and projects, or gleaning info from this amazing forum. Best, Neil
  10. For me, I'm hoping to use this for thinning watch straps at the folds and thinning leather for the keepers. I can see what you mean about the roller - edge of the blade relationship. If I was doing high volume, I'd step up for a better splitter, or go right to a bell skiver. Looking forward to your thoughts Bruce. Neil
  11. I got the splitter yesterday. It was $65 shipped with tax. Arrived very quickly. The bolts on the bottom, holding the mechanism to the base were pretty loose, but it's solid once those were tightened. I'm currently holding it to my work bench with clamps as I'm not sure if I have the space for a permanent location. I used it to thin some chrome tanned leather. The leather stretched but that's because it's chrome tanned. It cut cleanly and was easy to adjust. The springs are very strong and held in place very well. It came with a few blades, but I'll be getting some of the Olfa black blades for it soon. Neil
  12. I was about to buy one from Zonepack and then I found the same thing on eBay. It seems to be the same in every way. Thanks for all the info/thoughts/advice! I've been spending a lot on supplies this year and this is one more thing... But at ~ $60 it's kinda of a no-brainer. I'll update with how I like it. Best, Neil
  13. I watched the video again and the guy references 18mm Olfa blades. The only 18mm Olfa blades or any blades that come up on a search are the snap-off kind. I wouldn't see why those wouldn't work. Here's the video:
  14. Great call on the blades, Fred. I'm double checking with the seller, but the youtube video on it mentioned Olfa blades. In the comments, they mention the black blades last a lot longer. I think they're talking about these (EDIT: another listing said 18mm blades): https://smile.amazon.com/OLFA-9069-UltraSharp-Snap-Off-Heavy-Duty/dp/B000LE3V74/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2GRMTQA7SWUHC&keywords=olfa+blades+18mm&qid=1649871457&sprefix=olfa+blades%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-6 Best, Neil
  15. Hey everyone. I'm a small time leather worker, mainly making watch straps. I came upon this splitter on a video and found it on eBay. Picture: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185262187198?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2b227ca2be:g:3I0AAOSwcXFgvdsM&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4EZQjfF0vLV1YfxSqMDSB9HGe6IAOwnmwnJADY0BiOenxz0eVwJZMkKoK%2BcC8DN83S%2B72zDJvv9g2%2B5Dsmu2MCT8yiALLbeLNo4tQBDR8ivA4pKCVeKmIeLeJPfnyl2Nznrw16htA0tX6R1fOwWsz%2FDbnLqdJ%2Bp4scKZNFIaBcFgt1j3N%2BtyCOyfGqhZPg9V4PkwcXr7d0Dopsb9Dx8PKQ8RZewlyhn5KI%2BlKhCbCcRxXDd0ThrUH0LWfoWZqAnzxw4PBy3%2FqZON%2BjGB%2FJ8u64lJ1o47fyDWek%2BthkPdzgsw|tkp%3ABFBMgqSXvYRg I like that it will hold the leather via the springs and that the blade is replaceable. I know, I know.. I'm just not great at sharpening blades. Anyone have experience with this, or similar? My only wish, would be that adjusting the thickness was done with one set screw, so that it'd ensure that the thickness was uniform. Thanks, Neil
  16. Hi all. I'm a big time lurker and small time watch strap maker. I got a bit overzealous recently when I went to The Tannery Row in Chicago. I'm also selling some other small pieces I got there and elsewhere. All of the leather is between 2-2.4mm thick, 4-5 ounces. First is a "Buggy Whip" Horween hide I really like but think it's wasted on watch straps. You can see why I chose it - it's amazing. Has a soft feel and soft temper. Here's how the buggy whip process is done (as emailed to me by the sales person): The leather is drum dyed the lighter tan color, then it is dried. Then it is dampened and balled up and scrunched and thrown back into the mill to be quickly dyed again with the darker brown color that gives the lines. It turns for just a few minutes and then is pulled back out and dried again. I'll upload a couple pics but can send more bigger pics if interested. It measures about 7 ft x 3 ft across the middle and top. I paid $160 for it and used just a couple ends of it. The salesman said Horween doesn't have plans to make more of this leather right now. I'm asking $125 shipped. Here are a few smaller pieces. I want to sell these together. I'm asking $40 shipped if it's just these 3. Butter Rum, soft and very flexible, 12" x 50" across the top, 7" x 22" down. Waxy Brown (crackled?) 22" x 27". A bit firmer temper, medium. Has a bit of crackle when it's bent. American Bison, black, 12" x 36", very soft, purchased from Montana Leather. I paid $25 before shipping. They are currently out of stock. I can be reached more quickly at my email: nwmott@hotmail.com, but messages here work too. Message notifications get filtered into my junk email sometimes, so there can be a delay. Thanks for looking. Neil
  17. @DwightSo, if I'm guessing correctly, the neatsfoot oil is going to add a bit of the shine like the carnauba wax? I already have NFO on hand which would be great. I mainly make watch straps but would also like to use this for other small goods like coasters and down the road wallets, etc. I was planning on using that heating iron that I posted originally, and finishing with canvas. Neil
  18. OK, ordering some beeswax and carnauba wax... What ratio do you prefer? Great tip about the soft drink can! Add the wax, then set it in some hot water to melt? Best, Neil
  19. I've seen some waxes in pellets... so just buy them in pellets/small pieces and measure it out... it does sound pretty easy... beeswax and carnauba wax? Anything to consider about which type of each wax? I don't want any fragrances since my wife and I have bad allergies. White vs yellow beeswax? Best, Neil
  20. Hey all. I watched a video by leathertoolz on youtube about a small burnishing iron. While waiting for it to heat up, he talked about how he disliked using 100% beeswax for burnishing because it can be kind of tacky afterwards. He found a 90% beeswax, 10% paraffin mix that gave a smoother less tacky look. I can't seem to locate such a mixture and I'd prefer to buy and not try to mix it myself. Here was the video and the mini-iron he reviews. Thanks, Neil
  21. Hey all. A long overdue update on my coasters. Here are a few of them, mostly what was above, but now they're treated with 2 coasts of 50/50 Resolene & water and stitched. I sent some others to a friend who's be "field testing" them and the top coat is holding up well. I haven't been conditioning the new ones I've made. I honestly forgot... the top coat, adding the sheen, does reduce the feel you'd get from the leather. As far as applying the Resolene, I'm using two daubers, one to apply the coat liberally, then a second to mop up what hasn't soaked in after about a minute (basically any areas that are pooling). Also, I made way too much of the resolene mix, but have been keeping it in a sealed Gladware container. Any issue with long term storage? I'm at about a month now. Neil
  22. for conditioners, I have Bicks 4 and Dr Jackson's hide rejuvenator... The Dr Jackson's will darken it, but not the Bicks. I've got daubers for the resolene...
  23. ah this is good advice!! I bought Resolene for the project, so I'll go with that. Agreed that a little darkening will help bring out the colors a bit and the lettering. Should I use a sponge to apply the 50/50 resolene? If so, will a regular sponge like I use for dishes work? Side note, I realized that I also have the web from the gloves, which will be great for this type of project. I had been saving them, not knowing how to use them. Best, Neil
  24. Well, if anyone ever sees this, this is how they turned out. I decided to not put any top coat on them... I figured the baseball leather would soak up some condensation, but it wouldn't affect the overall aesthetic. It's used leather anyway.
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