NeilMott

I just started making straps but no, no problems tearing of leather. I just like a chunkier look. I like other straps I have with tighter stitch spacing, but for a chunkier look - larger thread and larger hole spacing is what I prefer. I had thought of using a stitching wheel for spacing and a diamond shaped awl, but thought I'd get inconsistent hole shapes... I do think that when I was stitching before, I wasn't pulling through the thread with each hand properly. I hadn't discovered Nigel or Ian's videos yet. Seeking a tighter hole idea is due to when I pull the thread through a hole, the thread wasn't immediately tight, until I had stitched another hole, which tightened the hole before it... I think with a smaller hole, the threads would be tighter initially.... I've heard of using a drill press for the stitching and buckle holes, but I don't have a drill press so it's not an option at this point. I think a lot of people who do leatherwork also work with wood, so they have a lot of the bigger tools that can be used for both. I'm scrapping for space in my office while trying not to get divorced in the process. If you find any basketball leather please forward on the source. Rocky Mountain leather has been out of it and baseball leather for a while now....last I checked anyway. Working with gloves is fun once you figure out what parts you can use and what you can't use. I've got another glove incoming today. I'll post some pics when I'm done with it. Best, Neil

DJole, thank you very much for the lengthy response. I'm definitely very new and appreciate all the information and perspective. I chose this style of punch so that I'm not cutting out a hole, but making a hole instead (pushing the fibers apart as you said) - similar to a traditional chisel (angled slits). I prefer a wider hole distance (I chose 5.4mm hole spacing) so hopefully that means less of a chance of the thread tearing through a hole. When I mentioned that I thought my technique was bad it was because I was getting inconsistent stitching patterns. I don't have an issue with a traditional stitch pattern - it's just not what I want for my watch straps. That could always change... Best, Neil

Hey all. I think I was getting some type of zig zag when I was stitching using that type of punch...probably bad technique when I started... I guess the holes - when they are just circular - are more likely to tear out than if in diamond shape? I went ahead and ordered the KS Blade punch set... I guess we'll see. I'll experiment with a scrap piece and see if I can achieve straight stitches using both tools... Will report back. Hopefully will have the new chisels by the weekend. Best, Neil

Hey Fred et al. I think the consensus is that I should be using diamond shaped chisels to stitch watch straps, but I just prefer straight stitches. I have to admit that when I first started using the diamond shaped punches I have, I was just starting out and I found that I wasn't as consistent with making sure the needle went through the leather the same way, so that is probably part of this. I think my stitching and marking is a lot better now, but still prefer straight stitches. The thread to hole size is something I didn't know in such a quantitative way, so I very much appreciate that. I am using Tiger thread, which I think is flat thread, waxed...and have 0.6, 0.8 and 1.0mm size in most of my colors. I was trying to think back on my experience with the first set of round dent punches and I remember that it was hard to get them out of the leather. I even tried putting the teeth in the watch beforehand. I think the KS punches should be better made and slide in and out more easily. As far as sharpening them, how would you do that on a round chisel? Is it just using a fine grit sandpaper on them and going around them? Neil

Hey all. Can you clarify why I can't do straight stitches while saddle stitching with tight holes using the tools I posted? Are you saying the holes are too big? Here is a baseball strap I just finished using the first tool in the post that cuts out a 1mm hole. I found this plier with straight teeth, but a review said this about how big the holes are: I bought item so that I could continue to do leather work while other members of my household were asleep. The punch works well if you want to use a 3/32 size lace or to saddle stitch your project. the only limitations on this tool are the limits of common sense: don't try to put it through a double layer of anything too heavy, don't expect it to stay sharp if you don't maintain the cutting edge(s). So I would be wary of putting it through 5mm of leather and the holes it makes are 3/32" or 2.4mm wide, if I'm reading that correctly... I do have some tandy punches that are angled diamond shape but I prefer a straight stitch look. I think I'm missing something really basic here....it is because the thread doesn't have anything of shape to "seat" into? Best, Neil

Hey Fred. I haven't tried those pliers but they look interesting! I'll check them out. I do need to invest a small mallet - flat mallet right? So many tools to buy... I like the idea of the 2nd type now, as it makes senses that the leather can help fill in any gaps when tamping the stitching down... I'll see what I can find out about those pliers. Best, Neil

Hi all. In my quest to find a way to stitch in straight lines on my watch straps, I've been using a stitching chisel like the one below. It cuts out a 1mm hole, but gets larger due to the taper for thicker leather. What I'm finding is that even when I saddle stitch, I feel like the thread isn't as tight in the holes as I'd like it to be - even when I use 1.0mm Tiger thread. I previously had a set of these stitching chisels. I found that these made the holes a bit too small, so I sold them. I also wanted a larger spacing between holes, but overall the holes were too small... I didn't think of switching thread and needles.. So I'm back to thinking about getting another set of these. So, my question is, if the diameter of the teeth on these is the same as the 1mm chisels that physically cut out the leather (first pic), will I be able get tighter stitching because the leather isn't cut out? Hopefully that all made sense. As an aside, I tried just just using my round awl, but due to the taper the holes were just as large as using the chisels in the first pic. Thanks, Neil

Hey Frodo. No hard feelings. It's tough to judge tone, etc online. I appreciate you saying so. Threads wander and often I find out new/different ideas by reading through threads that we're always 100% on topic. Best, Neil

I wonder if you read the entire thread... Many people were offering their thoughts, their opinions, their questions not only in terms of how to do what, but also materials. I wonder if you have publicly admonished them as well... Maybe reported them to the moderators? Fredk didn't think I was hijacking this thread. He gave me some really useful advice and I was showing what I did - which may or may not have been the fast easiest way, using 2 kinds of wax. He recognizes that he's got expertise and experience and was kind enough to offer his advice and wisdom. As a teacher, I truly appreciate it. Was it the best place to post? I dunno. Based on what other people had posted I thought my question was relevant to other posts and thought it might help others. As an aside, being a chemistry teacher/chemist, and not knowing what all the dyes are made of, I'd think if you were burnishing with wax before dyeing, the dyes would either not go through the wax (if the dye is water soluble) or they might dissolve any wax on the leather (not-water soluble). All depends on what you're burnishing with and when you decide to burnish. Neil

Hey again. I hope I'm not thread-jacking this thread. Overall I had put two coats of NFO on this old rifle sling. After stitching, I added a couple coats of Sno-Seal, sides and top. After letting it dry a bit, I then rubbed beeswax on the sides and burnished the strap by hand. It seems like it worked but it didn't get glossy as I've seen before. But with going with a wax product then wax maybe this is how it's supposed to look? The tip didn't work as well. Not sure the best way to tackle the small curved area like that. I had to add a bit more glue to the tip (prior to stitching), so maybe that got in the way. Neil

Hey Fred. Thanks for all the info. I'll do the stitching first, then post a pic of the final product. I'm working with old leather so it needs all the help it can get. The guy who mentioned not heating up the beeswax is in a cold climate but maybe he's got a different product or his house is kept pretty warm? Best, Neil

Hey all. I've got a somewhat similar issue. I have a watch strap that I wanted to add some Sno-Seal to. I don't mind the darkening that it will do, but I'm not sure if I should add stitching to it before or after applying the Sno-Seal... btw, that recipe sounds awesome. I have NFO and beeswax, but no carnuba at the moment. Here's what the strap looks like now. It was a tan color before applying 2 coats of NFO to soften it up. I imagine I'll still have to go the beeswax route and burnish. I was told not to heat up the wax though first - not even a little. But the beeswax doesn't want to go onto the leather.

Did you end up buying another splitter?

Hey all. I'm very new to leather work and a total noob when it comes to some of the terms for thinning leather. I'm looking for a budget ($200-$300 ish) leather skiver that will also do lap skives. Right now I only make watch straps, so I don't need to skive very wide leather. I'll be working with veg tan leather, baseball leather (from old baseball gloves) and also harder leather from old rifle slings. I've seen these splitters on ebay and amazon, but can't figure out if they will lap skive: ebay splitter They look exactly like the Cowboy leather splitter 800: http://www.solar-leather.com/small-splitters-skivers which I'm pretty sure do both regular and lap skive.. I'm not sure I'd need the better 806 Cowboy model... This one would allow me to do 2-hand pulling of the leather but for small belts and straps, I think I'm ok with one hand. I read in another thread that if you get a Cowboy model from them, the blade will be razor sharp, but I'd probably have to sharpen the blade from an off brand or even a Cowboy from ebay.... Am I on the right track with these options? Thanks, Neil

Hey Zulu. I appreciate the info. My chisel is fairly new, so I think maybe it could use a coarser stone to begin with? I've definitely sliced my fingers here and there so I know it's pretty sharp. I've almost entirely been working on baseball leather from used gloves. I have a sense that it's not as easy to work with compared to regular veg tan leather... I was surprised to learn from that video that my whetstones will groove but it makes sense. So I'd need a diamond stone to get it flat anyway right? Most don't say if they are mono-crystalline diamonds... Any recommendations for a diamond stone and guide? Neil

Hey all. I'm a bit late to this thread. A few questions to clarify: it's ok to push and pull on a whetstone? Any preference on a set of diamond stones? I have a 3000/8000 whetstone but I think both are really too fine to get my chisel and my skiving knife sharp. I think they are too fine by themselves. I also find it a bit easier to skive with a chisel...Danne, you're saying you skive with the flat side up? I will have to try this. Neil

Acadia has some really nice leather, but a bit more $$ than I want to spend. I think I'll try the leather I posted and also try to thin it out a bit... I've seen that and tried it but I didn't have a wide enough skiving knife.... Now I do and looking at that video again, I think I see what I may have done wrong. I'll definitely practice with an old belt from the thrift store! Thanks for all the info! I'll report back. Neil

I'm looking for a similar leather to this, but in a slightly lower weight (around 2-3 mm thick): https://www.springfieldleather.com/Buffalo-Pre-Cut-12-24-Crazy-Horse-Denim Any ideas? I didn't see anything similar on Rocky Mountain leather....but may have missed something similar. I plan on making watch straps out of this leather. Thanks! Neil

Here's the update. I used some of the leather I had leftover from one of the fingers of the glove. I'm waiting on some new punches and for it to dry to stitch it up.

That is a very nice Highland Park as well!!

these are now sold.

Hey Gary. I'm north of the city now, in Highland Park, but spent my city days in Lake View, Logan Square, and Albany Park which is near North Eastern and North Park Universities. I bet you don't miss our winters!! I was thinking of your lining idea but just wanted to more feedback. Do you think I'd also want to sew the overlap where the lining goes on top of the main baseball leather? Best, Neil

Hey all. I'm making a watch strap out of an old baseball glove and for the short side (that will have the buckle on the end), I want to use this piece of the glove with "Ken Griffey Jr" on it. While I have a decent amount of leather to work with, when I fold the leather over, I have enough so the ends butt up against each other. I'm wondering if glueing them together and stitching (X-stitch?) would be a good way of connecting the leather, or if I should skive the ends down, then glue in a filler piece, and stitch the areas that overlap? Thanks in advance for your time, Neil

I bought these not too long ago and they took 3 weeks to arrive and cost $80. They are very high quality punches but I find myself preferring a different hole spacing. These are well built and will last a long time. Asking $60 shipped for both the 2 and 8 prong chisel. Please contact me at nwmott AT hotmail.com . (replace AT with @)

Fred, That was hugely helpful! Thank you very much!!! Neil