Tree Reaper Posted January 25, 2011 Report Posted January 25, 2011 Kate and Clay, fantastic and thank you for the demo, there may be others but these are the only two I have had a chance to view so far. This is my first post here and I know little about carving but I hope to do more with the help from others here. It's discouraging having poor results in your carving, not knowing what to do to improve and not knowing where to get the help. Knowing which tools to use and where to use them makes all the difference, at least to me! I see some chatter marks in the knife lines and was wondering what would be causing them as I experienced this myself the other day. Would it be due to a dull knife, dampness of the leather or technique? Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted January 25, 2011 Author Members Report Posted January 25, 2011 The "chatter marks" you see are not from the knife lines, but the dotted lines in the transferred pattern. You'll notice in photos later in the sequence that the knife cuts are smooth and continuous, and the dotted lines have been buried in the tooling. As for what is causing them on your carving, one of the more common causes is choppy movement of the knife through the leather, especially when going around curves. If your knife is not sliding very smoothly through the leather - seems to "pop" a lot - it can be an issue of either a poorly sharpened/stropped knife blade, or the leather could be too wet. If you can post a photo of yours, we can probably get a better idea what's going on. Kate Quote
Tree Reaper Posted January 25, 2011 Report Posted January 25, 2011 Thanks Kate. I just sharpened the knife after a few small carvings, I have never stropped this knife before and just ordered some jewelers rouge a few days ago. I'm sure it had something to do with a dull blade. If it happens again I'll bring it back up. Kevin. Quote
Members JustKate Posted January 25, 2011 Members Report Posted January 25, 2011 That would definitely be part of your problem, then. Most swivel knife blades are not ready to use out of the package. They usually need to be sharpened before the first use, then stropped before and during every use. The tip should be very shiny and smooth, polished to a mirror finish. Kate Quote My gallery My Facebook page My web site
Tree Reaper Posted January 27, 2011 Report Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) This one isn't new, it's probably forty years old , I just don't know what I'm quite doing yet. I think it's been sharpened twice on a stone, the second time just the other day. I was on a forestry forum the other day when one of the members started a topic on leather and it rekindled my interest. Now that there's help available I'll be doing more leather work. Edited January 27, 2011 by Tree Reaper Quote
Members Skald Posted February 12, 2011 Members Report Posted February 12, 2011 What did you use for beveling? Not some stamping tool it seems, I never get such fine deep lines with them. When I use a "folding bone" (I guess that it what it's called over there), I get something similar, but it's for marking stitching lines when I am wet shaping things. And about the stem of the leaf, those really fine shallow lines, is that the "hair knife" thing, or am I totally whack here? Really nice work anyway, truly. Quote
Members JustKate Posted February 12, 2011 Members Report Posted February 12, 2011 (JustKate -> a.k.a. CitizenKate): I have a set of bevelers from the Hidecrafter Pro Crafter's line. They are a bit steeper than the Craftools, and much, much smoother. The texture of the stem was created by sliding a B-893 along the length of the stem. Glad you asked - I totally forgot to mention that! Kate Quote My gallery My Facebook page My web site
Tree Reaper Posted February 12, 2011 Report Posted February 12, 2011 I have my A104 and A104-2 stamps YOU'VE GOT TO BE KIDDING ME! I can never get my 104 that crisp and detailed. I thought you might have used an 888 for that. I 'll keep practicing Quote
Members Skald Posted February 12, 2011 Members Report Posted February 12, 2011 (JustKate -> a.k.a. CitizenKate): I have a set of bevelers from the Hidecrafter Pro Crafter's line. They are a bit steeper than the Craftools, and much, much smoother. The texture of the stem was created by sliding a B-893 along the length of the stem. Glad you asked - I totally forgot to mention that! Kate Ah, I am looking at hidecrafter.com right now, but I have a problem to guess which beveler in particular you have been using. I really like that sharp/thin beveling line. I got that B-893 tool too, I'll make sure to try that effect out, doesn't look like it's been worked much, still the lines are pretty clear. Good work. Quote
terrymac Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) Ah, I am looking at hidecrafter.com right now, but I have a problem to guess which beveler in particular you have been using. I really like that sharp/thin beveling line. I got that B-893 tool too, I'll make sure to try that effect out, doesn't look like it's been worked much, still the lines are pretty clear. Good work. I am not familiar with Hidecrafter tools, but I will bet the bevelers you want are in the "Sheridan Collection" Sheridan type bevelers have a much steeper angle than traditional bevelers. When doing Sheridan style carving, so many of the lines flow close together, you have to use a steeper angle to keep from laying down so much surrounding leather. I personally am using Barry King bevelers, and have totally satisfied with their effect. Another tool you might look at is the leaf liner also made by Barry King. It is used on the either side of the stem in the leaf giving a lined impression. I use mine after I have first beveled. Terry Edited February 14, 2011 by terrymac Quote
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