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Posted

I just noticed a hook I purchased on eBay is $29 shipped, while same Kunpeng hook on Amazon is $44.   That’s quite a difference!

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Posted

In many cases Ebay has the better prices compared with Amazon. I bought a larger hook + 10 spools for approx the same price back then but haven´t yet started that project :whistle: What no one (seemingly) has answered yet is how much material do I have to grind / mill down (in millimeters)?

 

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted (edited)

I just dug out an old Singer hook saddle... when taking a closer look and putting in the large hook I´d say It cannot be just the hook bushing part you have to mill down. The rest of the inner hook saddle  (lets say "the well") needs to be milled don too. Otherwise the opener lever link (the 8-shaped part) would stay at the same height cause it sits in a fix position on the bobbin case opener lever

Maybe you can shed some light.... ;)

EDIT:

some ppictures

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Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted (edited)

some rough measurement:

When the OEM hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~16mm.

When the new large hook is insert the distance from hook saddle top side to the hook tip is ~19mm.

So I have to mill down ~3mm (roughly - don´t have a caliper on hand atm) inside the entire hook saddle well to keep the needle hook timing right. Am I right with this?

If I' m wrong maybe some one can help me.

 

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Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted (edited)

Still wrapping my mind around this... :wacko:

Hook tip position is not too critical I guess. The fixed point you (we) have to deal with is the gap in the needle plate where the small bobbin case tab goes in, right? I mean thread has to pass that gap w/o hanging so the gap is a "fixed point" whereas the needle bar can be adjusted...

So back to the drawing board :rolleyes:

 

EDIT:

still looks like 3mm difference between OEM small hook and new large hook.

Old hook 19mm - new hook 22m

Still thinking the whole "hook saddle well" has to be milled down by 3mm.

I´m not a machinist so if someone has other ideas please share your thoughts...

 

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Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted (edited)

Yes I think you’ve got it - about 3mm is removed from the well.   Cowboy Bob had mentioned in the past they take .100” off that area (2.54mm). 
 

I may be wrong, but it was my understanding the case opener lever stays at the original level and gets slightly clearances to avoid rubbing on the hook.   The figure-8 thingy is then given a step, or the entire height is reduced enough that it sits under the hook, but that is the part I’m not sure of.

My large hooks won’t be here for another two weeks.

Edited by DonInReno
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Posted

I think you are right, the new opener lever (don´t have one yet) looks a bit bent upwards...

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

Posted

I now have a third machine for the conversion....for that one a factory lu-563 saddle has been ordered so that should at least give us a better idea of what the dimensions are. 

On 2/5/2021 at 1:37 AM, Constabulary said:

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