Halter questions

[TomE]

Completed my first halter and would appreciate some advice.  I'm having difficulty keeping the stitches uniform next to the hardware, especially when overstitching at the start a stitch line.  I am using a double presser foot on a Cobra Class 4 machine with the standard plate and feed dog.  The straps are 2 -3 thicknesses of 9 oz veg tan.  Adding a welt/wedge to ease the transition helps  but I still have trouble maintaining consistent stitch lengths near the ends of the straps.  Any tips or tricks?

Also, Tan Kote is causing a yellow discoloration of the thread (white 277 bonded nylon).  I am using Fiebing's leather stain then oiling with olive oil, and applying Tan Kote after stitching.  Does the Fiebing's pro dye eliminate bleeding of pigment?  I like the satin finish of Tan Kote but it acts like a solvent and lifts pigment out of the leather.  Any ideas? 

[Goldshot Ron]

Tom,

Your stitching looks fine to me for a first attempt, it just takes practice.  Three rows of stitching is a little overkill however.  On most of my halters I put on an adjustable chin strap instead of a fixed one like yours.  Type of oil is a preference: olive vs. neatsfoot.  I use Oakwood Leather Conditioner, and hand rub it into the leather and creases.  When it dries, it can be buffed for a shine.  I don't use Tan Kote on tack or saddles; but, no matter what you use after stitching, your white thread will tend to yellow.

Nice looking halter,

Ron

[JayEhl]

I don't know anything about horse tacks and such but I think it looks very nice.  Maybe the three rows of stitches may be a bit odd, but what do i know?   

I love this site!  

~JL

[jcuk]

Looks good for a first attempt, on the three rows of stitching a lot of top Thoroughbred studs and racing stables around the world prefer their head collars/halters made this way. Sorry cannot help you with the machine stitching of it as i hand stitch all mine the rule of thumb is stitch as close to the hardware as you can, a well stitched one should be able the stand up on its own not collapse on its self. Sorry just remembered i have machined stitched one came out ok but still prefer to hand stitch them. 

Helps this helps

JCUK

Edited March 11, 2021 by jcuk

[TomE]

4 hours ago, Goldshot Ron said:

Tom,

Your stitching looks fine to me for a first attempt, it just takes practice.  Three rows of stitching is a little overkill however.  On most of my halters I put on an adjustable chin strap instead of a fixed one like yours.  Type of oil is a preference: olive vs. neatsfoot.  I use Oakwood Leather Conditioner, and hand rub it into the leather and creases.  When it dries, it can be buffed for a shine.  I don't use Tan Kote on tack or saddles; but, no matter what you use after stitching, your white thread will tend to yellow.

Nice looking halter,

Ron

Thank you, Ron.  I'll keep practicing to get more consistent feeding as I approach the hardware.  I will look into Oakwood.  I have Bick 4 and Aussie conditioner but was unsure if they are adequate for waterproofing tack. 

3 hours ago, jcuk said:

Looks good for a first attempt, on the three rows of stitching a lot of top Thoroughbred studs and racing stables around the world prefer their head collars/halters made this way. Sorry cannot help you with the machine stitching of it as i hand stitch all mine the rule of thumb is stitch as close to the hardware as you can, a well stitched one should be able the stand up on its own not collapse on its self. Sorry just remembered i have machined stitched one came out ok but still prefer to hand stitch them. 

Helps this helps

JCUK

Thanks JCUK.  Triple stitching is also a thing in the sport horse world.  My hand stitching leaves something to be desired but I enjoy the process and aim to improve  What type of thread do you use for hand sewing halters?  

[Goldshot Ron]

Well, I stand corrected on the number of stitch rows.  I went back through my photos of halters and repairs; and, many of them were 3 rows.  I also make halter bridles for my mule friends, but they are lighter weight and my stitching is just around the perimeter.  

Anyway, you're on a good with your first halter.

[rdl123]

I use the same sewing machine make / model and have experienced the same thing - Basically as the leather thickness increases - The stitch length decreases.  What I have done lately is start sewing with a lot of 'spare' thread hanging out creating a long 'tail'.  I start sewing with the machine four or so stiches from the hardware or wherever the piece gets thick - I then go back and hand stitch to the end of the piece using the extra long tails I left when I started machine sewing.  I get the best results this way.

Takes a little longer - But if I really want it to turn out perfect that's what I do.

I'd say your halter looks very tidy though!

Ron L

[TomE]

1 hour ago, rdl123 said:

I use the same sewing machine make / model and have experienced the same thing - Basically as the leather thickness increases - The stitch length decreases.  What I have done lately is start sewing with a lot of 'spare' thread hanging out creating a long 'tail'.  I start sewing with the machine four or so stiches from the hardware or wherever the piece gets thick - I then go back and hand stitch to the end of the piece using the extra long tails I left when I started machine sewing.  I get the best results this way.

Takes a little longer - But if I really want it to turn out perfect that's what I do.

I'd say your halter looks very tidy though!

Ron L

Thanks, Ron.  That's a creative solution that takes advantage of the flexibility of hand sewing to finesse stitch lengths, and I can stitch even closer to the hardware than with machine stitching alone.  I will try it out.  I did hand stitch the ends of the throat strap round and the buckle straps with 277 bonded nylon to match.  I ended up waxing the bonded thread to prevent twisting and bunching as I pulled up the stitches.   I tried the holster plate and stirrup plate to stitch close to the buckle but decided hand sewing was the best solution.   

 

[jcuk]

19 hours ago, TomE said:

Thank you, Ron.  I'll keep practicing to get more consistent feeding as I approach the hardware.  I will look into Oakwood.  I have Bick 4 and Aussie conditioner but was unsure if they are adequate for waterproofing tack. 

Thanks JCUK.  Triple stitching is also a thing in the sport horse world.  My hand stitching leaves something to be desired but I enjoy the process and aim to improve  What type of thread do you use for hand sewing halters?  

This is what i use.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/linen-thread-18-4-somac-5925.html

JCUK

 

[TomE]

16 minutes ago, jcuk said:

This is what i use.

https://www.abbeyengland.com/linen-thread-18-4-somac-5925.html

JCUK

 

Thanks, JCUK. You are the real deal. Would enjoy seeing your work. 

[jcuk]

Don't really have many pics of my work because most of my work are repairs and if i get  commission for something to be be made i just give to the customer, my better  half always says i should take pics always forget or they come to collect before i have have time to get round to it. But do have this, oh should have polished the brass.

 

Edited March 12, 2021 by jcuk

[TomE]

JCUK, that’s a beauty! I’ve seen that pattern of triple stitching on other halters. What is the reason for bridging between the stitch lines instead of terminating each stitch line separately?

[jcuk]

Saves time and thread by trying to do it using a single thread not always possible when using a lighter coloured thread when stitching large cheek pieces or head straps because it will drape all over floor and my workshop is not the tidiest to put it mildly.

Edited March 13, 2021 by jcuk

[Mulesaw]

Nice and clean looking halter. 

I like it when the throat latch (or whatever the name of it is) is made as a round piece.

 

[TomE]

8 hours ago, Mulesaw said:

Nice and clean looking halter. 

I like it when the throat latch (or whatever the name of it is) is made as a round piece.

 

Thanks, Mulesaw.  Making the round throat strap took some practice but I am getting faster/better at it.  There aren't many rein rounders for sale and they are priced accordingly. I am grateful that she who must be obeyed allowed me to buy one from Bruce Johnson Leatherwork.

[Mulesaw]

I didn't know that there was a special tool for making round reins.

The round parts that I have made, I have made by wrapping the leather round a small piece, then done some hidden saddlestitching through the side. 
Right now one halter is missing since my wife's horse decided to ditch his in the mud somewhere. I guess I'll have to make a new one at some point.
 

Brgds Jonas

[TomE]

5 hours ago, Mulesaw said:

I didn't know that there was a special tool for making round reins.

The round parts that I have made, I have made by wrapping the leather round a small piece, then done some hidden saddlestitching through the side. 
Right now one halter is missing since my wife's horse decided to ditch his in the mud somewhere. I guess I'll have to make a new one at some point.
 

Brgds Jonas

I made a few round pieces using the hidden stitch as described in Al Stohlman's "The Art of Making Leather Cases."  Thought that worked well.  He describes using a leather strap held in a vise instead of a metal rounder.  For now, I've switched to machine sewing the round and essentially mushrooming the corners using the rein rounder to mostly cover the stitches.  I'm using a 1.25 in wide strap of 7 oz leather wrapped around a 9 oz filler.  I got started using a metal rounder with this tutorial  https://brucejohnsonleather.com/index.php/download_file/1038/202/.  Good luck finding the halter.  We have ponies (Caspian horses) that wear breakaway halters with grazing muzzles.  Some disappear until discovered the following spring when I am spreading manure.