Bi Fold Wallet Flop, Looking for advice

[ThatTallChick]

I made this bi-fold wallet using this pattern and following the video tutorial but it's SO thick it's not even usable. I skived the 'T' pockets the same way it's done in the video, and I even skived the outer sides of the Pocket Cs. The website recommended 4/5 oz. leather for the exterior and 2/3 oz. for the interior, I used 2-3oz leather for the entirety of the project and it's still too thick. What can I do about this? Should I just skive it more, or is this just the nature of hand made leather wallets? I'm thinking of just getting some 1-2oz leather but I can't seem to find 1-2oz leather very easily. 

Also, when etching the line for the stitch holes to go, all the pockets are already secured in place and I found the line was really difficult to make straight since it was going over all the "bumps" of the tops of the pockets. I used an adjustable edge creaser for this and it was just really difficult. The easiest way I found to crease or groove the lines was to make the lines and punch the holes before assembly, but it was really hard to get the holes to line up when I did it that way. Am I doing something wrong or is this just supposed to come with practice? Or better tools? 

There's no cards or cash in this at all and it feels like it's fully loaded, how can I make this thinner?:

 

I know there's a lot else wrong with this project- the stamps, the stitching, the edges, etc but it's the thickness that I really don't know how to solve...

[Hardrada]

Thinner leather. Don't go over 2 oz.

[Sheilajeanne]

Yes! Can't believe they'd recommend 4-5 oz. leather for a wallet!

I am currently working on a Tandy wallet kit, and nothing in the kit is thicker than 1 mm!

[Tugadude]

Everything is relative.  There are some on this forum that would consider that just fine or even a little skinny.  They frequently recommend 4/5 for the outside and 2/3 or 3/4 for the inside.  Chunky doesn't bother them I guess.

I'm with you.  That needs slimming.  So yes, thinner leather is the way to go.  Depending on who you are buying from, they might offer splitting service.  They can then give you exactly what you need.  I think Weaver does it.

As far as the lines, part of it is probably just lack of practice, but there is also technique involved.  I have gotten in the habit of using a grooving tool to make the line.  I don't remove any leather, just let the sharp part create a scratch.  It gives me accurate spacing from the edge and it is nice and straight.

As far as pre-punching holes, I've never needed to do that on a wallet.  I have done it on thick, multi-layer bags and satchels though and again, it is easy after you practice a few times.  

On a positive note, your stitching looks way better!  So good job on that!

Edited April 29, 2021 by Tugadude

[Sheilajeanne]

I would place my stitching lines BEFORE assembling any of the parts. That would solve your problem...

[ThatTallChick]

1 hour ago, Hardrada said:

Thinner leather. Don't go over 2 oz.

Alright, I'll keep looking around for some then, thanks!

43 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

Yes! Can't believe they'd recommend 4-5 oz. leather for a wallet!

I am currently working on a Tandy wallet kit, and nothing in the kit is thicker than 1 mm!

That's SO odd that they would sell leather that thin in a kit, but not as a hide-- or maybe I'm thick in the head haha I feel like I have clicked on every hide they sell and the smallest any of them go is 2-3oz, this is so frustrating haha

15 minutes ago, Tugadude said:

Everything is relative.  There are some on this forum that would consider that just fine or even a little skinny.  They frequently recommend 4/5 for the outside and 2/3 or 3/4 for the inside.  Chunky doesn't bother them I guess.

I'm with you.  That needs slimming.  So yes, thinner leather is the way to go.  Depending on who you are buying from, they might offer splitting service.  They can then give you exactly what you need.  I think Weaver does it.

As far as the lines, part of it is probably just lack of practice, but there is also techniq

Gosh really!? Man I don't think this would even fit in my husbands pockets (I won't even bother trying to put it in my own pocket) haha I suppose to each their own though! 

Oh very good, it does look like weaver has some apparently it's called "garment leather" or "upholstery leather" though it's unfortunate that it's already dyed 

54 minutes ago, Sheilajeanne said:

I would place my stitching lines BEFORE assembling any of the parts. That would solve your problem...

I agree, the one time I did that I ended up with my best stitching

[Sheilajeanne]

38 minutes ago, ThatTallChick said:

That's SO odd that they would sell leather that thin in a kit, but not as a hide-- or maybe I'm thick in the head haha I feel like I have clicked on every hide they sell and the smallest any of them go is 2-3oz, this is so frustrating haha

That's why I bought a Tandy splitter, when they were on sale for a very reduced price!  I bought the Tandy kit to use as a template, and will be spitting my own leather for the next wallet.

You can buy craft cuts that are that thin, but they are REALLY expensive!

[Hardrada]

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply splits the leather you buy from them to your chosen weight. For wallets, I get their chevre split to 2 oz or even 1 oz.

[Tugadude]

I don't think you want to use garment leather.  It is likely to be too flimsy.  You want the leather to have a little stiffness to it.  Supple, but stiff.

[ThatTallChick]

2 hours ago, Hardrada said:

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply splits the leather you buy from them to your chosen weight. For wallets, I get their chevre split to 2 oz or even 1 oz.

Okay this is absolutely fantastic! I'm not sure what sort of border fees it would accrue to ship to Canada but I'm really really struggling to find a canadian supplier that offers the amount of options as Rocky Mountain Leather Supply does. I will definitely keep them in my back pocket, thank you for the recommendation! 

1 hour ago, Tugadude said:

I don't think you want to use garment leather.  It is likely to be too flimsy.  You want the leather to have a little stiffness to it.  Supple, but stiff.

Oh that's good to know, thank you! I'll email a few of the Canadian suppliers and see if anyone can split some hides for me to be that light!

[sbrownn]

Buckleguy sells thin leather in small pieces.

[mike02130]

Weaver leather sponsors Corter and I don't believe they carry thin leather, hence the thick recommendation.

If I'm making an unlined wallet, I use 1.5 mm for the back and .8mm to 1mm for the interior.   For a lined wallet I have my  leather spit to .5mm and use a .5mm lining between two pieces for the back so it equals 1.5mm.  I glue glue up two pieces flesh to flesh for the interior.  That way everything is lined.  Chevre is nice, but it is sold by the hide and is expensive. 

Thickness--It looks like your T-slot tabs are overlapping each other.  Is that the case?  They should not be. That's likely the reason you have "bumps" making it difficult.  Also you lined the bill pocket with material.

10 hours ago, ThatTallChick said:

Also, when etching the line for the stitch holes to go, all the pockets are already secured in place and I found the line was really difficult to make straight since it was going over all the "bumps" of the tops of the pockets. I used an adjustable edge creaser for this and it was just really difficult. The easiest way I found to crease or groove the lines was to make the lines and punch the holes before assembly, but it was really hard to get the holes to line up when I did it that way. Am I doing something wrong or is this just supposed to come with practice? Or better tools? 

I don't quite understand this?  If you have a straight cut and use a wing divider--the proper tool--it should not be difficult.

[Frodo]

When working with thin leather

apply that white/yellow paper tape on the backside of your leather

I am thinking that when you mark and punch your leather it is stretching. and that is what is causing your holes to be off

I 100% tape the leather, before I cut it out,  and leave the tape on the backside till finished 

 

[ThatTallChick]

11 hours ago, Frodo said:

When working with thin leather

apply that white/yellow paper tape on the backside of your leather

I am thinking that when you mark and punch your leather it is stretching. and that is what is causing your holes to be off

I 100% tape the leather, before I cut it out,  and leave the tape on the backside till finished 

 

Oh interesting! It most certainly does stretch when I punch it, I have never heard about using this tape before, I'll give it a go, thank you :D 

 

[Frodo]

Same thing if you are going to tool the leather or slick it

tape the backside when dry.  spritz the tooling side  till wet enough to tool