Members chrisash Posted May 31, 2021 Members Report Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) When i was in the navy we tended to used this knife "Green River" and sheaths similar to this one but made from Harness leather, the knife and spike (not this sharpener) were deep in the sheath and held firm, must admit i like your D ring safety measure Edited May 31, 2021 by chrisash Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
CFM chuck123wapati Posted May 31, 2021 CFM Report Posted May 31, 2021 3 hours ago, chrisash said: When i was in the navy we tended to used this knife "Green River" and sheaths similar to this one but made from Harness leather, the knife and spike (not this sharpener) were deep in the sheath and held firm, must admit i like your D ring safety measure mountain men and fur trappers used the green River knife also. their old saying "i run him plumb up to the Green River" meant he stuck the blade in up to the stamped name and killed the person. great knives i have a couple for butchering. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
Members DanDSilva Posted June 1, 2021 Author Members Report Posted June 1, 2021 (edited) On 5/30/2021 at 5:00 PM, fredk said: The frog on the web page you linked to looks like a 'general purpose' frog. It holds the sheath loosely. Its alright for when you are upright but I think it'll be too loose a fit for a sheath on someone clambering about a boat. If you are making the frog, wet mould its loop on the sheath with the blade in it When I made this frog / hanger for a stiletto knife sheath I wet moulded it to the sheath. The sheath could never be pulled out Hi, It's good to know. I see I didn't fully explain what I'm trying to accomplish -- my aim isn't only to keep the knife from falling out of the frog by accident, but also that it should be easy to remove without having to take off the belt, so, for instance, you can quickly take it off and lock it in your glove compartment or something if you realize you're going into a building where it wouldn't be permitted (my local community college, for instance, doesn't permit us to wear large knives and I know there'll be others with similar policies). That's why I was looking at a separate frog instead of just a sheath with a built-in belt loop. I've also thought of using an integrated belt loop closed with laces or snaps, or a belt dangler with a square screw carabiner... any of those sound workable? Edited June 1, 2021 by DanDSilva Quote
Members KylerGonzales Posted August 30, 2021 Members Report Posted August 30, 2021 (edited) On 5/28/2021 at 7:27 PM, Mulesaw said: I'd go for pure neatsfoot oil. I just checked with our bosun, and here's a picture of his sheath. It is a nice touch to make room for a marlinspike in the side, and the D-ring for securing the knife and the marlinspike when working aloft. I feel especially sad about what is happening in the world. Wars, our negative impact on the climatic state of our planet, due to which natural disasters occur from which a lot of people around the world suffer. You can follow this link and read the information, get acquainted with the statistics, causes and consequences of various natural disasters around the world. Very high quality work. Edited August 30, 2021 by KylerGonzales Quote
Members DanDSilva Posted February 8, 2022 Author Members Report Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) All done. This is what I've wound up with: It's a pretty basic design, copied more-or-less from Puma. I stitched the belt loop to the sheath, but also made a belt dangler with an aluminum screw carabiner. I think that solves the problem nicely. Edited February 8, 2022 by DanDSilva Quote
Members DanDSilva Posted February 8, 2022 Author Members Report Posted February 8, 2022 It's made of 4-5 ounce veg-tan, dyed with Fiebing's Pro dark brown, finished with Resolene, neatsfoot oil and Sno-Seal, and stitched with nylon artificial sinew. The rivets are nickel-plated brass and the snaps are stainless line 20 line snaps from Tandy. If I were doing this again, I might consider doing the finish after stitching, because the Resolene stiffened the leather quite a lot and I didn't like the sort of tearing sound the awl made when going through the leather. Also would make the welt and distance between the stitching and the very edge at least half again wider, maybe more. This is the first time I've set line snaps and they were a bit tricky. They feel like they'd open up just a bit easier than I'd like for the knife to feel really secure in the sheath. Quote
CFM chuck123wapati Posted February 8, 2022 CFM Report Posted February 8, 2022 7 minutes ago, DanDSilva said: It's made of 4-5 ounce veg-tan, dyed with Fiebing's Pro dark brown, finished with Resolene, neatsfoot oil and Sno-Seal, and stitched with nylon artificial sinew. The rivets are nickel-plated brass and the snaps are stainless line 20 line snaps from Tandy. If I were doing this again, I might consider doing the finish after stitching, because the Resolene stiffened the leather quite a lot and I didn't like the sort of tearing sound the awl made when going through the leather. Also would make the welt and distance between the stitching and the very edge at least half again wider, maybe more. This is the first time I've set line snaps and they were a bit tricky. They feel like they'd open up just a bit easier than I'd like for the knife to feel really secure in the sheath. Nice work all around, love a flat grind! give your snap a slight pinch with some pliers it'll tighten up. Quote Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms. “I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!
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