Holster for Walther PPQ. Nice Try?

[AzShooter]

I finally picked up a blue gun to help me get this holster out.  It sure makes things easier.

The customer wanted a simple design and in black.  It took a week to get the blue gun but I think it was well worth it.  I probably need to work harder on molding.  I used 2 layers of 7-8 ounce leather and I think I'm making them too thick.  I got some impressions but not what I was going for.

The gun fits real well, is held secure, but jumps out when pulled.  

All criticisms are welcome.

[Lobo]

Two layers of 7/8 makes a total thickness of nearly 1/4". Very difficult to do any close forming work.

I have used a couple of combinations that seem to work well and provide a lot of strength in the finished product:

Outer layer of 6/7, lining layer of 4/5  or two layers of 5/6. Either combination yields a result totaling 10 to 12 oz (5/32" to 3/16" nominal thickness prior to molding and forming). For those having less experience, each "ounce" of vegetable-tanned cowhide is equal to about 1/64" in thickness, so 4 oz. equals about 1/16", 8 oz. equals about 1/8", etc (the math is pretty straightforward once the basic guideline is understood).

For wet-forming we must keep in mind that not only are we dealing with a thick chunk of leather, we are also dealing with the bonding cement between the layers which tends to be a moisture barrier. Wet-forming a holster made of these combinations can be done (including detail boning if desired) when the completed holster is immersed in a bucket of room temperature water for about 1 second per ounce of finished weight, so for these combinations we need about 10 to 12 seconds in the water. Then set the piece aside for a few minutes to allow the water to settle completely in the leather. I would do an initial forming on the pistol or dummy gun, then into the hot box for 10 minutes. Next step is to begin the close forming, then back into the hot box for 10 minutes. Then a final forming and detail boning can be done, followed by about an hour in the hot box.

My hot box was an old kitchen wall cabinet, 30" H X 18" W X 12" D. Holsters were suspended by wire hooks from the top, allowing the heated air to move over and through them (convection effect, heated air rises). At the bottom I mounted two 4" electrical ceiling boxes, each with a keyless porcelain lamp holder, 100W incandescent bulb in each fixture, both fixtures on a switch leg with a rheostat (dimmer switch) allowing adjustment of the voltage and lamp output (light and heat). Thermometer at the top of the box to monitor temperature. Internal temperature maintained at 125-130F.

That set-up allowed me to form and dry up to a dozen holsters in a production run. The forming work taking place in 3 short working periods of 3 to 5 minutes each piece, so about 4 hours work took care of a production run. Everything was then ready for the next stage in the production process.

The combination of moisture and heat provide good forming qualities. The heat releases the collagen within the leather fibers, allowing it to settle into the new patterns created within the fibers by the forming process, thus reinforcing the forming work for lasting effect.

Working in batches of 10 to 12 items at a time allowed me to do 3 production runs per week, then spend a day forming and a day on finish work, set everything aside for the finishes to set up and completely dry, then one morning to package everything for delivery to the customers. I usually averaged about 30 holsters, a dozen magazine/ammo pouches, and a half-dozen belts per week, with average shop time of about 47 minutes per completed item.

Of course, you have to have the orders to justify the work (or a marketplace ready to display for sale). My point is that our working time can be much more efficient when we are doing multiple items one step at a time, rather than doing one piece at a time from start to finish.

I was very fortunate to have a constant flow of orders that allowed me to deliver about 2000 finished products per year regularly. Of course, years of doing this kind of hand work resulted in arthritis, carpal tunnel and cubital tunnel injury, surgeries to my wrists, elbows, and shoulders, and I was eventually unable to continue. That is when I retired and sold the business to a very good family of leather workers who have continued what I started for the past 5-1/2 years.

That leaves me as a "consultant", so hear I am consulting away!

[Brooks125]

Like Lobo said, I think you're little thick on the leather for good boned forming.  I use 8/9 oz with pigskin suede lining, which yields pretty good results.  The cement does affect the absorption of the water for forming.  On design, you look pretty good, just make sure you leave enough grip presentation to get your fingers around the grip comfortably, but keep the trigger covered and the mag release not covered, which you did there. ... and be careful, mold guns become habit forming as well, at about $50 a pop!  I'm up to 80+ and counting!