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DirtyDusty

Pre-made latigo holder with breast collar tab

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Does anyone know of a supplier, for the latigo holder and the cinch holder, that have the tab to put a breast collar dee on with?  

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Never seen any but they are a pretty simple thing to make.  Making them would be a good exercise in pattern-making and result in a piece that is uniquely yours.  Give it a shot. 

Alternately, you might be able to find a saddle maker that has had a clicker made for this.  If they are willing, you could possibly have them punch some out for you. 

P5140683.jpg

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This is just my opinion and we all know what that is worth... I want my breast collar tugs attached almost as stout as a rigging D. When (if) you rope a 1500 # cow, your breast collar can take a lot of strain! It happens in the mountains as well when you are riding up a steep hill. I want all parts of my saddle cowboy strong, you never know where it might wind up. I don't think a latigo hanger would hold up.

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The pictured D can only accommodate a 3/4" tug or connecting strap.  Therefor, the D attachment is as strong or stronger than it needs to be since the 3/4" breast collar strap will surely tear through at the buckle tongue, way before the D attachment fails.  14 oz. skirting leather, 1" wide, wraps the D and is screwed stoutly to the tree (three screws).  Most parts on a saddle don't need to be infinitely strong, just stronger than the next weakest component in the line of pull.  The design needs to match the saddle and the intended use. 

A tripping style breast collar should be chosen for extra heavy use.  Two 1 1/4"  wide harness leather, or 1" double and stitched straps on each side, one in the rigging and one in the cinch ring.  No breast collar D's at all.    It you felt you needed this type of breast collar it would be wise to match it to a saddle and tree that is equally stout.   It's going to be a stout and very heavy rig for sure.  I agree there are folks who may need and want that type of outfit but I don't get asked to build them nowadays.

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The whole setup needs to fit snugly with the conformation of the horse including the connector from the middle to the cinch, then 3/4 is enough. If it is loose anywhere and can pop and jerk then stress is concentrated, not well distributed. Fit, fit!

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