Stitch Length Regulator on Consew 226r-1

[BelleH]

I recently purchased a new-to-me, Consew 226r-1 sewing machine.  After bringing it home, we gave it a thorough cleaning and oiling and it sews very well.  I didn’t even have to alter the tension settings.  Given this is my first industrial machine,  I’ve been taking it slow, and testing out the various options, changing needles, threads, materials, and just getting used to it.  My next step was to change stitch length. The previous owner had said that he didn't ever bother with changing stitch length and just used the same all the time, (~8 stitches per inch).   The button on the base was a bit stiff when we tested it at his house, but after bringing it home, cleaning and oiling, it depresses as I assume it should.   I followed the instructions, pressing the left button, and turning the handwheel until I could feel the plunger fall into the notch.  From there I continued to turn to select a stitch length.  I found that the handwheel would not turn to reach the "5" and would stop at "7".  My sewing tests were done w/o thread and on medium weight leather, using a proper leather needle.  I ran the machine using the “7” stitch.  It produced about 5 stitches/inch.  I repeated the process of button depressing, turning and stopping at various settings and then stitching.  What I found is that pretty much anywhere from around 8-24 on the wheel, creates a stitch length of 7-8 stitches/inch.  I did find that the selector would turn past the 24 by quite a bit though.   I tried stitching there and that's where I was getting over 20 stitches per inch.  I didn’t want to turn the wheel until it wouldn’t go any further for fear of breaking something.  I also found that if I stop at a given setting, say 12, I get slightly different stitch lengths if I come at it by turning the wheel toward me than I do when I turn away from me (sometimes just below 7 other just above 8).  For what I do, 7-8 stitches per inch is fine, but it would be nice to be able to change if need be, and do so with predictable results. 

 

I’ve searched the forum and found a few discussions on Singer 211-xx Stitch Regulator Jams, but nothing there seemed to apply here. 

 

Can anyone provide input on what I should look for, what might be wrong, if it’s something that can be fixed, etc.  Is it a common problem? Or does anyone have suggestions on where I might find some info on what might be wrong and if I can fix it? 

Thanks in advance for any help provided.

Belle

 

[Wizcrafts]

Here are two manuals courtesy of Consew. One is the operator's manual and the other is the parts numbers book.

226R-1 Operator.pdf 226R-1 Parts.pdf

[BelleH]

Thanks.  I used the instructions in the Operator's manual (I have a copy) to change the stitch length during the tests that I described.  That's where I had found the reference to the plunger falling into place.  All appeared to work per the manual during the physical selection of length, but the actual stitch lengths produced didn't and don't correspond to the numbers on the dial.  No where in the manual does it explain trouble shooting - hence my post for help.  The parts manual is handy to have.

[Wizcrafts]

I can't help you with troubleshooting that machine as I don't have one to use as a reference.

[Constabulary]

8 hours ago, BelleH said:

I found that the handwheel would not turn to reach the "5" and would stop at "7".  My sewing tests were done w/o thread and on medium weight leather, using a proper leather needle.  I ran the machine using the “7” stitch.  It produced about 5 stitches/inch

The stitch length dial is held on the top shaft by a set screws. Dial in the longest stitch length (5SPI) open the top cover then loosen this set screw and rotate the dial until you see the "5" in the window then tighten the screw again. This does not change any settings on the machine or so it is just the position of the dial you alter to match the dial with the stitch length. But as you can imagine the dial is not necessarily 100% precise cause the window gives quite some room for displaying the number on the stitch length dial. Just play with it a little bit with the dial position. I think Singer says in the 111 manual you should do this with 8 SPI. Let me check the manual...

EDIT:

Yeah, 8SPI - this most likely is because you can reach the set screw in this position.

This is from the Singer 111 manual:

 

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Constabulary

[BelleH]

Constabulary - The 226r-1 doesn't have a window, but does have a mark to align the number on the dial with, so I assume that would be the same thing in principle.  But I'm not sure which cover you are referring to when you say "open the top cover".  Do you by chance have a picture or diagram on which you can indicate the cover and set-screw?  That should help with the "5" setting and stitches per inch, but not sure if it will address the fact that I get 7-8 stitches/inch on any of the settings from 8-24.  But maybe it will.  Thanks.  All input is appreciated.  

[Constabulary]

oh - right - I see - sorry! I thought the Singer 111 clones would have this window too... I have edited my last post  (see above).

So maybe then it is the position of the hand wheel on the top shaft. Usually the hand wheel is held by 2 set screws in a certain position and one set screw sits in a grove on the top shaft so maybe the hand wheel is positioned incorrectly. You know what I mean?

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Constabulary

[BelleH]

I'll check it out.  The diagram that you provided also helps.  Might be that the number in the window and the number positioned next to the mark are the same thing and the same basic concept applies.

Thanks!

 

[Constabulary]

this is what I had in mind when thinking of the 226 seems there were casting variants:

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Constabulary

[BelleH]

The confusion on the style of 226R-1 is completely understandable.  I still greatly appreciate the input, even though it's for another machine.  It gives me hope that there is some way of adjusting.  But I suspect that aligning the numbers with the mark will still not get me "there" completely.  Given the fact that I can set the dial from 8 to 24 and still get 7-8 stitches per inch means there is a lot of "slop".  Going beyond the 24 does get me more stitches per inch, but that's a pretty wide range on the dial.  Also afraid to push the dial too much further beyond the inch or so that I went beyond 24. 

I've attached a picture of my handwheel with the stitch length numbers on it.  There is one screw on that ring and it may be what I need to loosen to move the numbers into alignment.  I'm hesitant to try though as the machine sews so well, I don't want to chance messing anything up.  As I mentioned above, I'm new to this and still getting my feet wet.

[chrisash]

No doubt a silly question but are you keeping the button pushed down all the time you are adjusting the machine and not letting go once it engages into the slot, You need to keep it constantly engaged unit fully adjusted

Edited July 31, 2021 by chrisash

[LanceR]

Yes, Belle, Constabulary hit it on the head.  Although the 226R-1 has the same window as the Singer it's not used and while the adjustment on the 226R-1 is as shown in your last post but the idea is the same.  I have the same machine and got it with the stitch length wheel mis-adjusted.  I used needle punches into light card stock to be able to determine how many stitches per inch the machine was sewing, used the button to lock the shaft and then loosened the set screw you have indicated and aligned the correct setting on the adjusting wheel.  Then a few lengths of stitches to confirm the setting was accurate showed that things were correctly set confirmed the setting.

You'll need to hold the card stock (or fairly stiff paper) down as the needle withdraws so the needle drag doesn't move it but it's a lot easier to accurately measure holes in paper than some fabrics so hand turning the wheel may be best.

Best regards to all.

 

Lance

 

[BelleH]

Chrisash - It never hurts to state the obvious.  Sometimes it isn't obvious to others, or sometimes it is, but people get caught up in the details and don't look at the big picture.  But in this case, I definitely was pushing down the button.

LanceR - Thank you for confirming what I had to do (same concept as Constabulary outlined).  I have success!

For those that care about the details, here they are:  Today I did a few tests.  First I checked the number of stitches I was getting. It was 7.5.   I then decided to start with turning the stitch length regulator as far as it would go.  It again reached only "7".  I checked the number of stitches I was getting, and it was 5.  So I I then loosened the screw on the ring and rotated until "5" was lined up with the dot.  I tested and was still getting 5 stitches per inch.  I then did a number of stitch number changes and did tests after each.  7 produced 6, 10 produced 7.5, 20 produced 10.  For the most part I wasn't getting matches with the number of stitches and the number on the dial.  I continued with stitch selection until the dial wouldn't turn any more.  This was near the screw, well beyond 24.  At that point I was still getting only 12 stitches per inch.  I then repeated the steps but now going in the opposite direction.  I went back to 11 and I found I was getting 11 stitches per inch.  At 8 I was getting 8.  That's where I stopped since that is where I wanted to be.  So it seems that the direction from which I set the stitch number matters.  I've attached a picture of my tests (on light weight card stock).  I also tested on heavy leather and I am still getting 8 stitches per inch. 

Also LanceR - I went back to check out your posts on this forum and I see that you had asked nearly the same question as I did back in May and there were a number of replies and a video on timing.  I did a long search of this site before asking my question but that didn't come up.  I guess it all is in the key words used.  Plus I see that you weren't getting notifications of messages - I don't always get them either.

Anyway, THANKS TO ALL.