Think I'm getting it now... Tooled Avenger

[PastorBob]

4 minutes ago, YinTx said:

Thank you.  I've just started these, so haven't landed on a weight yet, and they haven't had an opportunity to get user comments yet.  I've  used everything from 7 oz to 10 oz.    See my posts in the Help me section.  This particular holster was made from 8-10 oz leather.  I tried to make a lined holster, but didn't like how the inside wrinkled, how do you manage yours?  

YinTx

I cut both pieces, then glue them together.  I then will even up all the edges, either by cutting away or sanding.  Then I start bending it where the fold will be, slowly, and I continue to work it open and closed.  Apply glue. I will then fold it over so that the front facing side is slightly within the outer edge of the back side and hammer it down.  Then I trim edges again.  I have had one that wrinkled slightly, but the client was fine with that.  Said he would rather have a slight wrinkle vs. having the gun against the raw flesh side of the leather.

[JLSleather]

Double 5/6 would be too heavy for me, even worse with the "reinf" panel / belt piece.  Too much.  You know, each his own.

But I have done double 4/5, and also 4/5 lined with 3/4.  Cut the outside from the pattern, then put the liner in on a curve.  Jim Simmons covered this very well in the holster section - no need to reinvent that wheel.

 

[YinTx]

3 hours ago, JLSleather said:

Double 5/6 would be too heavy for me, even worse with the "reinf" panel / belt piece.  Too much.  You know, each his own.

But I have done double 4/5, and also 4/5 lined with 3/4.  Cut the outside from the pattern, then put the liner in on a curve.  Jim Simmons covered this very well in the holster section - no need to reinvent that wheel.

 

I have read Jim's method, yes.  But what I had me a bit flummoxed was how to stitch along the top edge and the bottom edge *after* it had been glued on a curve/ over a form.  So I had it in my mind that I had to stitch the top and the bottom first, then form it.  Otherwise, PITA to stitch, even by hand, and I suspect not possible with machine?  You would have to leave them both unstitched.  Which seemed to invite separation in the future, especially the top line.

I'll work my way down to the thinner leathers as I get comfy with them performing over time, I am sure.  The more I see others are using thinner leathers without issue, the more relaxed I'll be about it.  The 7 oz Avenger I did just seemed... floppy.  Especially around the belt slot. Maybe it isn't really an issue tho?

YinTx

[JLSleather]

56 minutes ago, YinTx said:

PITA to stitch, even by hand, and I suspect not possible with machine?  

never had a problem sewing after curved.  by hand, that's what hand sewin' is fer   and simple to sew on a cylinder arm machine, though a flat bed would be harder (I have been known to put the outside through a flatbed to "poke" the holes in the outer layer, then line, then 'chase' the holes with an awl through the inner layer.  I don't leave it NOT sewn.

To be clear, then, I'm talking about doing your toolin', ... whatever.  Then gluing that over the main body, sew with about maybe a 105°- 135° bend in it.  Shape as you line, so u got basically a U shape.. might be what.. 1 1/2" - 2" gap between the back end?  Sew between the stitch lines, top 'n'' bottom.  You seen my patterns, so that should make sense enough without further gabbin'.   Finish as any other ... (I do scuff the lining a  bit to make the glue bite a bit better - just scribe a line and stay outside that with your 'scuffer'.)