hand sewing tips

[Sjm1027]

I was reading a sewing book and it stressed to make sure you keep the awl in your hand and never drop the needles. Well I gave that a try today, first project that i sewed so I had a heck of a time. I have a few questions:

1, The book said to use the marking wheel to make the marks for the awl holes. The person at Tandy told me to hammer the holes into the leather using a 3 pronged tool and I did but I noticed I had to punch the leather over again to make sure the needle could go through both pieces. The book tells you to only use the wheel and punch holes after each stitch. What do you all do?

2, I used waxed thread, threaded the needles with no problem, made a knot in the middle and waxed the ends near the needles to stick the small piece to the main thread. Once I broke the thread by sticking the needle into the thread and one strand got messed up. Is it better to get linen unwaxed thread and wax it your self or is pre-waxed ok to use?

Ok time to get a bandage to cover the blister from the thread!

[Rawhide]

Here's what I've found. Waxed thread willget darker when you pull it tight. this is of no consequence whent the thread is black or brown. But it makes white thread look dingy or dirty, even though it's brand new. I use linen unwaxed thread, wax it with a clean block of beeswax, and have no problems.

Keep trying with the awl in hand and needles. I prefer the awl because of the smaller holes. You can't poke too many though, because they will close up on you, so it's best to punch a couple, stitch a couple, and so forth. I am still having a time trying to hold the awl and needles, but it prevents it from falling on the floor.

Also for your blisters, I found some leather thimbles at Joann fabric to slip over my pinkys. They are white leather on one side and multicolor eleastic on the other. I'll see if i can find them on the website and post a link.

Hope this helps.

Marlon

[Don101]

ok the way i do it is use the stitching grove and after that use the stitching wheel, then set up on the stitching horse lace my thread ive tried pree waxed thread at the begining and didnt really like it that mutch i use bees wax and wax my own thread,

first off have you sharpened your awl and are you using a diamond shaped awl, i would recomend a diamond shaped awl and sharpen it,

i do each hole then push the thread through and pull tight,

a helpfull tip before you push the awl through the leather, push the awl into a candel (bees wax is best but a normal one will do) you will find that the awl will go through the leather without any drag and hardly any pressure needed giving you more controle, Don

[Sjm1027]

Thanks, Yes the pinky is pretty much chewed up... hehehe... Thanks for the tips. I will continue to learn the correct process.

That would be great if you come across the pinky protector thanks for the help

Steve

[Sjm1027]

ok the way i do it is use the stitching grove and after that use the stitching wheel, then set up on the stitching horse lace my thread ive tried pree waxed thread at the begining and didnt really like it that mutch i use bees wax and wax my own thread,

first off have you sharpened your awl and are you using a diamond shaped awl, i would recomend a diamond shaped awl and sharpen it,

i do each hole then push the thread through and pull tight,

a helpfull tip before you push the awl through the leather, push the awl into a candel (bees wax is best but a normal one will do) you will find that the awl will go through the leather without any drag and hardly any pressure needed giving you more controle, Don

Yes I am using a diamond awl, think I will sharpen it. Looks like I will try unwaxed thread too. Thanks for the help

Steve

[Don]

When sharpening your awl, using a flat bastard file works best for me. I only sharpen the two opossite angles on the awl. I have found that doing this will allow you to keep the awl sharp longer. I have not had much luck sharpening my awls on a stone or buffing them on a buffing wheel. After filing the awl, I keep a ball of bees wax handy and every so often I stick the awl into the bees wax, this helps the awl slide through the leather much easier. On thinner projects this usually isn't a problem but on thicker stuff the bees was will really cut down on the blister factor.

As far as thread, when I was hand stitching my belts and other projects I liked using the prewaxed thread. The brand I used was Nyltex I believe. Got it from Leather Factory. Also using the thinner harness needles worked better for me, a little harder to thread the heavy thread through the eye but your hole doesn't have to be as big and your stitching looks a lot more professional.

Main point: Keep your awl sharp.

[Johanna]

Take some scrap deerskin and make wraps for your fingers' sore spots. Secure with contact cement. In time, you will have callouses, not blisters. (If only this worked for playing guitar!)

Johanna

[Rawhide]

Here's the link I mentioned. They are called Quilter's thimbles. Helps a ton. There are several styles to choose from, so you can reasearch that if you care to do so.

Have a good one.

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CAT...p;source=search

[LAPat]

What kind of awls do you all use to punch holes, and how are the needles or blades sized?

L.A. Pat

[Rawhide]

I just use the diamond shaped awl. I have one straight one, and one curved one.

[bruce johnson]

What kind of awls do you all use to punch holes, and how are the needles or blades sized?

L.A. Pat

Pat,

All awls are not created equal. I used to use Osbornes and Osborne blades. Worked OK, but like all Osborne tools, they sell you the makings of a tool. You have to tweak and sharpen and strop yourself to really get them right. I bought an awl and two different blades last year from Bob Douglas. They are much better in my hands than any others. They are sharp and polished when you get them. Remember that feel. You can order them directly from Bob at (307) 737 -2222. I expect Bob is probably headed to Wichita Falls this week. Vandy has them at Sheridan Leather Outfitters, their phone number is (888) 803-3030. The blades I have are a "regular" and "slim". He has a few handle sizes also.

[LAPat]

Thank you Bruce for your help. I was at Melanie Machine today to check in on my Bonis fur machine, which is in the hospital and I thought of you. Arnold showed me a fur machine that would sew King Kong. I get such a kick out of that place. There is something magical about all those specialized machines and the way Mr. Kay keeps them so clean. And your right, I do feel like he's taking care with me, not taking advantage.

I will check into the awls you recommended.

Best

L.A. Pat

[bruce johnson]

Pat,

Sorry but I can't resist this. Arnold is probably old enough and has been in the business long enough, that machine probably DID sew King Kong and Arnold sewed him. He probably also has the clicker big enough to cut the suit on one pass. Not sure if he told you, but at one time he owned a shoe factory that produced 5000 pairs of women's shoes a DAY for Sears. That was before that trade went overseas. Arnold knows machines and what they ought to do. It is fun to just walk around in there.

[Mike]

Not sure if I should start a new topic or not. I have white (natural) unwaxed 6 cord thread. I have used it in belts, checkbooks and so on without a problem. I wax it with beeswax and it still seems to stay white. It is what I used on the checkbooks on my website.

My problem is that this is the only size thread I have. (I'm not counting pre-waxed nyltex.) I would like thinner thread to use on smaller items or perhaps on inserts. Some books will tell you to create smaller thread from larger thread. Has anyone really tried this? I did and I won't be doing it again anytime soon. It was not much thinner when I went from 6 to 3 cords and it took too long.

Where can we get thinner thread and info on which needle size to use with them. This info does exist for machine threads. Most sewing machine manufactures have it available. Does it exist for hand sewing. The Stohlman book is good but seems to be dated. It does not cover light objects.

My checkbooks are too thin for a groove so I use a scratch awl to mark a line and very carefully use either an overstitch wheel or wing dividers to mark the hole locations for the awl.

Thanks,

Mike

[patricweill]

hello,

I may be a bit late on this, but there is an excellent tutorial about saddle stiching at british blades :

you will find it here : http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19963

hope it can help

Patrick