Uppers made of thick chrome-tanned leather

[ScottEnglish]

Hi.

I've just opened a parcel containing half a chrome-tanned back, about 3.5mm - 4mm in thickness, that I'd hoped to use for unlined uppers. I cannot believe how stiff it is! It's like plastic. I've had similar thickness vegetable-tanned leather that has been immeasurably more supple. The leather is intended for equestrian use and was expensive. I thought it would be similar in suppleness to previous chrome-tanned leathers I've bought allowing for the extra thickness. I will have to send it back.

Should this leather be supple or is it meant to be stiff?

Thanks.

Scott

Edited December 1, 2021 by ScottEnglish

[Aven]

Do you remember what you ordered or the description? 

Having a chat with your supply house could minimize your surprises. 

[ScottEnglish]

Hello again Aven. Thanks for the reply.

The supplier describes the leather as a chrome half back and gives dimensions. No other information. My understanding, having contacted the company, is that the leather is from an English tannery. It may well be very good quality, but it's also very stiff and no use to me whatsoever. I will have to return it. Maybe their vegetable-tanned buffalo will be more supple and I can do an exchange.

Scott

[Aven]

When you go to buy again, ask for a sample or at least ask how firm, supple it is and what it is normally used for.

[ScottEnglish]

Thanks for your advice Aven. I will try to ensure the replacement leather is suitable for my need.

Scott

[Latiguy]

Extra thick soft temper, low stretch chrome tan leather is very rare and hard to get. I have been searching for  a couple years to use making moccasins. If you are butt stitching like the Arrows then you will need at least 3mm thick. One option would be Horween Chromexcel. Maverick Leather Co. often stocks some of this in thicker weights. chromexcel is suitable for footwear uppers since it is a chrome retan and therefore pretty stable with wet dry cycles. The temper is usually medium/soft so reasonably easy to work with.

Another option would be chrome tanned Bison leather, this is usually very soft but it can also be stretchy if it is the "shrunken" variety. Distant Drums sells thick chrome bison in the US. Some latigo leathers can also have a medium/soft temper.

Edited January 3, 2022 by Latiguy