Members scott Posted January 11, 2009 Members Report Posted January 11, 2009 could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks Quote
Members Justis Cases Posted January 11, 2009 Members Report Posted January 11, 2009 could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks Weldwood original in the red and yellow can from Home Depot or Lowes.....will do anything that Barge does at half the price. The only people that might not agree with are the ones with a shelf-full of Barge that they need to use up. Quote Jack, JUSTIS CASES
esantoro Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 I like Duall 88 and Tandy's contact cement. ed Quote http://www.waldenbags.com http://www.waldenbags.etsy.com
hidepounder Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 Scott, Are you saying that the two pieces don't stick together? Bob Quote
Bree Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks What exactly is the problem?? I just got done glueing up a double blank belt using some Tandy Tanner's Bond contact cement. I prefer Barge but I wanted to use up this Tandy cement before I opened a gallon of Barge. Did you rough up the leather a little to give the cement something to bite on? If you are glueing flesh to flesh, you might want to consider an extra coat of cement as the leather tends to suck it up and you might need a little more glue surface for a strong bond. Did you pound it out or rub the pieces together with some force to make sure that all the surfaces bond together tightly? I use a jig on my drill press to hold the bottom blank and then I have a registration pin that allows me to precisely line up the top blank for the initial glue to glue contact. The jig is exactly the width of the blanks so they mate precisely as I roll from the left the top blank over the bottom blank which extends out to the right. Once I have them mated precisely, out come the now bonded blanks and I put a piece of lint free cloth over the top and use a flatting hammer or tamper to rub the blanks together without damaging them or showing any signs of the tamper's action. I go back and rub the edges hard to make sure they bond tight as that is the most likely point of separation. The lint free cloth is the only thing in contact with the leather and it remains stationary as the tamper moves over it and applies the pressure that assures a good bond. This process works well for me. Those blanks are locked together very tightly and keep the belt together until I can get to the sewing step to finish the bonding process. Whether it's Barge, Tanner's Bond, Weldwood, 3M laminate cement, Duall, Pliobond, or any of the other contact cements, if you don't prepare them right and bond them tightly, there is a chance that they won't stick together very well. Preparation is very important with these contact cements in my opinion... more important than which one you use... cuz they all work. Quote Ride Safe! Bree 2003 Dyna Wide Glide Memberships: Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association
Members tonyc1 Posted January 11, 2009 Members Report Posted January 11, 2009 Bree, I have a great tool in my workshop. It is a hand wringer off an old washing machine. I got this off the tip and it cost nothing. It has been great for bonding glued pieces together as it expels any air bubbles that may be present. Tony. Quote
Members Wyvern Posted January 12, 2009 Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 I like the Weldwood. Works just fine for me! Quote Slainte, Sonas, agus Beartus wyvernleatherworks.com
Bree Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Bree, I have a great tool in my workshop. It is a hand wringer off an old washing machine. I got this off the tip and it cost nothing. It has been great for bonding glued pieces together as it expels any air bubbles that may be present.Tony. Great idea! That is the concept for sure. Get those pieces bonded together with no pockets of air or non contact. You could probably do the same thing with a Tipmann embosser and a special roll with a rim but no embossing or creasing... just a rimmed flat roller. That would give you the best of your way and the channeling jig that I like to use to make sure the blanks register together. Cool. I love this site. Quote Ride Safe! Bree 2003 Dyna Wide Glide Memberships: Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association
Members scott Posted January 12, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 thanks everyone i'm glueing chaps together and barge has worked fine in the past. i've been having trouble with it for a couple monthes now. i do weight them with marble after i glue but that dosen't seem to help so it's time to find a product that will. Quote
Members Randy Cornelius Posted January 12, 2009 Members Report Posted January 12, 2009 I gave up on Barge a couple years ago, seemed like they changed the formula or something. I use Duall 88 now and have been happy so far. Another glue that is over looked is a product called Fabric - Tack. It is sold at fabric stores, craft stores, like Hobby Lobby and at Walmart. It is clear and bonds in seconds, great for holding two pieces together so you can sew them. I use it a lot on cases, zippers seams of all kinds. It comes in a 4 oz squeese bottle and drys clear. Randy Quote Randy Cornelius Cornelius Saddlery LaCygne, Kansas Randy & Riley Cornelius Ride Hard, Shoot Fast and Always Tell the Truth...
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