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could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks

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could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks

Weldwood original in the red and yellow can from Home Depot or Lowes.....will do anything that Barge does at half the price. The only people that might not agree with are the ones with a shelf-full of Barge that they need to use up.

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I like Duall 88 and Tandy's contact cement.

ed

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Scott,

Are you saying that the two pieces don't stick together?

Bob

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could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks

What exactly is the problem?? I just got done glueing up a double blank belt using some Tandy Tanner's Bond contact cement. I prefer Barge but I wanted to use up this Tandy cement before I opened a gallon of Barge.

Did you rough up the leather a little to give the cement something to bite on? If you are glueing flesh to flesh, you might want to consider an extra coat of cement as the leather tends to suck it up and you might need a little more glue surface for a strong bond.

Did you pound it out or rub the pieces together with some force to make sure that all the surfaces bond together tightly? I use a jig on my drill press to hold the bottom blank and then I have a registration pin that allows me to precisely line up the top blank for the initial glue to glue contact. The jig is exactly the width of the blanks so they mate precisely as I roll from the left the top blank over the bottom blank which extends out to the right.

Once I have them mated precisely, out come the now bonded blanks and I put a piece of lint free cloth over the top and use a flatting hammer or tamper to rub the blanks together without damaging them or showing any signs of the tamper's action. I go back and rub the edges hard to make sure they bond tight as that is the most likely point of separation. The lint free cloth is the only thing in contact with the leather and it remains stationary as the tamper moves over it and applies the pressure that assures a good bond.

This process works well for me. Those blanks are locked together very tightly and keep the belt together until I can get to the sewing step to finish the bonding process.

Whether it's Barge, Tanner's Bond, Weldwood, 3M laminate cement, Duall, Pliobond, or any of the other contact cements, if you don't prepare them right and bond them tightly, there is a chance that they won't stick together very well. Preparation is very important with these contact cements in my opinion... more important than which one you use... cuz they all work.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Bree, I have a great tool in my workshop. It is a hand wringer off an old washing machine. I got this off the tip and it cost nothing. It has been great for bonding glued pieces together as it expels any air bubbles that may be present.

Tony.

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I like the Weldwood. Works just fine for me!

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Bree, I have a great tool in my workshop. It is a hand wringer off an old washing machine. I got this off the tip and it cost nothing. It has been great for bonding glued pieces together as it expels any air bubbles that may be present.

Tony.

Great idea! That is the concept for sure. Get those pieces bonded together with no pockets of air or non contact. You could probably do the same thing with a Tipmann embosser and a special roll with a rim but no embossing or creasing... just a rimmed flat roller. That would give you the best of your way and the channeling jig that I like to use to make sure the blanks register together.

Cool. I love this site.

:You_Rock_Emoticon:

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thanks everyone i'm glueing chaps together and barge has worked fine in the past. i've been having trouble with it for a couple monthes now. i do weight them with marble after i glue but that dosen't seem to help so it's time to find a product that will.

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I gave up on Barge a couple years ago, seemed like they changed the formula or something. I use Duall 88 now and have been happy so far.

Another glue that is over looked is a product called Fabric - Tack. It is sold at fabric stores, craft stores, like Hobby Lobby and at Walmart. It is clear and bonds in seconds, great for holding two pieces together so you can sew them. I use it a lot on cases, zippers seams of all kinds. It comes in a 4 oz squeese bottle and drys clear.

Randy

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Another glue that is over looked is a product called Fabric - Tack. It is sold at fabric stores, craft stores, like Hobby Lobby and at Walmart. It is clear and bonds in seconds, great for holding two pieces together so you can sew them. I use it a lot on cases, zippers seams of all kinds. It comes in a 4 oz squeese bottle and drys clear.

That sounds like just what I need for my wallet zippers. I have a terrible time keeping them in place while I'm sewing them with the adhesive I use now. Thanks for the tip!

Kate

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Hello Scott,

Barge is a lot different than in the past, they changes the formula or something. The three cements I have used and still use are Master, Duall 88, and Renia Colle de Cologne. I know Colle de Cologne sounds like toilet water, but Renia is probably the best high tech glue available for the shoe repair industry as are the American standards Master and Dual 88.

With most contact cements (called general purpose cements nowadays) you need to wait about 10 to 15 minutes after applying the cement to both pieces. Apply enough cement so that the cement reflects light after the 10 or 15 minutes, if it doesn't, a second, and on really dry flesh side a third coat may be necessary. If the cement gets hard on you, it can be reactivated with heat or another coat. When you stick the two pieces together, set them with a hammer. If it moves after that, shoot it.

Renia also makes other technical glues for sticking different things together. Read the directions with Renia products.

When I buy Master, I buy a quart of cement and a quart of thinner. I put the brush in the thinner and leave it there. Then when I want to apply some glue I take the brush from the thinner and dip it in the cement, this will carry a little thinner into the cement, which it always seems to need, then I store the brush back in the thinner can when I am finished.

Once you find a cement you like, stick with it.

Art

could anyone tell me a glue other than barge that will hold my leather. i'm tired of having to chase it around while i'm sewing. thanks

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thanks everyone i'm glueing chaps together and barge has worked fine in the past. i've been having trouble with it for a couple monthes now. i do weight them with marble after i glue but that dosen't seem to help so it's time to find a product that will.

Like Randy said Fabri Tac is great stuff. I use it a lot for helding seams together and to lock thread ends. I used to use it to hold patches on but now I use carpet tape as it is faster and less messy.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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I also primarily use masters on chaps.

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Like Randy said Fabri Tac is great stuff. I use it a lot for helding seams together and to lock thread ends. I used to use it to hold patches on but now I use carpet tape as it is faster and less messy.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

Would you say that Fabri Tac has a stronger hold than PVA for holding seams together for stitching?

Ed

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I guess I'm lucky...the last gallon of barge I bought a month ago is working just fine. I use it to glue all my projects together before I sew. Masters is great! Maybe a little stronger than Barge...I'll be switching to that after this gallon of Barge is gone. The only thing I can think of Scott is that maybe you are using the new Barge and I don't know anything about it. Several perople have mentioned Duall 88...where is that available? I don't know anything about it either.

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Would you say that Fabri Tac has a stronger hold than PVA for holding seams together for stitching?

Ed

I think it's better because it sets up very fast. You can be working and sewing very quickly with Fabri-Tac. It's kind of like airplane glue... the kind that you make models with. At least it reminds me of that stuff. Not sure what the heck is in it but it works quickly and holds strong enough to keep seams tight for sewing.

I have a quart of Tandy Leather Weld but I like Fabri-Tac a lot better. It isn't strong enough to be a structural adhesive but it is just right for prepping material for sewing operations. Downside... Fabri-Tac is a lot more expensive.

My $.02.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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