Parallel Lines

[Davm]

I use a Tandy tool that cuts a gouge for stitching etc. and if I just want a line along an edge I use it for that too.  I am having a little trouble making evenly spaced parallel lines.  I use this Tandy tool and then adjust the distance of the cutting arm. Thing is...not sure if that is how the experts do it. So help tell me how you cut parallel lines? 

[Tugadude]

Depends on how far apart they need to be.  For some, I will use a narrow straight edge and use it as a spacer.  That results in perfect parallel lines.  I have a variety of metal rulers that come in handy for just that, including one that is triangular and made of aluminum which is 1/4" wide.  Comes in handy.

Another thing I find very handy is a clear centering ruler.  It has horizontal lines on it that help you to mark parallel lines.  I use it a lot, and it is perfect for finding the middle of something.

[tsunkasapa]

 Are you cutting, or creasing? My stitching groover has a creasing blade I can swap out for creasing parallel lines.  But for cutting parallel lines I use the 'Lil  Wizard'.

Amazon.com: Springfield Leather Company Lil Wizard Border Tool

Edited February 1, 2022 by tsunkasapa

[DrmCa]

If your parallel lines are always the same distance away from one another then it could be as simple as making your own creasing tool, assuming that you are creasing.

[kseidel]

You ask how the professionals do this...  we do not use a stitch groover to cut tooling lines.  We use a swivel knife to cut the first line marked with a wing divider, and then follow up with a beader blade or a push beader to create the parallel line with a rounded "bead" between the lines.

[Davm]

I am revealing just how "green" I really am however I need to learn so THANKS to all.  So, use dividers to mark line one from the edge. The edge on a holster is curved so I can't use a ruler.  Now cut that line with a swivel knife.  Next on the beader- I actually have that tool but never have used it.  The beader has a sharp side, a curved underside, and then a less sharp side, so...assuming the leather is carded/wet put the sharp side in the cut line and push or drag so as to create a rounded bead on top and two parallel lines. Is that it or have I missed something? Again, thanks for the help. I really want to learn how to do it correctly.

BTW- outstanding work

[Sheilajeanne]

  Keith, that is some AWESOME work!!

Nice to see just how the pros do it, even if it makes most of us feel like rank beginners! 

[kseidel]

3 hours ago, Davm said:

I am revealing just how "green" I really am however I need to learn so THANKS to all.  So, use dividers to mark line one from the edge. The edge on a holster is curved so I can't use a ruler.  Now cut that line with a swivel knife.  Next on the beader- I actually have that tool but never have used it.  The beader has a sharp side, a curved underside, and then a less sharp side, so...assuming the leather is carded/wet put the sharp side in the cut line and push or drag so as to create a rounded bead on top and two parallel lines. Is that it or have I missed something? Again, thanks for the help. I really want to learn how to do it correctly.

BTW- outstanding work

The tool you are describing is not a push beader, but rather an edge creaser.  An edge creaser has one longer leg that hangs off the edge of the leather, and a shorter leg that makes a crease in the leather.  This is usually not a very sharp tool and makes a slightly rounded groove in the leather but does not cut thru the surface.  A beader has two sharp edges of the same length with a rounded groove in the middle.  Either edge can be placed into a swivel knife cut and pushed into the leather along the cut line.  The second line actually cuts into the leather and leaves a rounded "bead between these two lines.  A beader blade does the same thing but is designed to put into a swivel knife.  

[Davm]

Thank you, when I bought the edge creaser- that's what I thought it was used for, as in making belts, etc. I didn't know there was a bead creaser- so something I'll get. Is there an assortment of bead widths you can get and if so, is one better for a beginner?  Also I need some help on using it.  Let's say I am making a holster, there will be rawhide wraps on the edge and then a line or cut to separate the border from the background stamp marks.  With a beader I use dividers, etc. to mark out a line, then cut with a swivel knife and then use the beader to make a parallel line.  1. Does it make any difference to which side of the cut line I make the parallel line"  If I am gong to use a bevel tool along the cut line and then the background stamping, then it would seem logical to make the parallel line closer to the edge, not closer to the carved area- if that makes sense.  I realize you can probably do it either way but I'd like to know how the professionals do it and if they even bevel the line toward the background stamping.  Thanks again.

[JayEhl]

I can't figure out how to not  embed these youtube video links (Personally, I hate it gobbles so much of the text space and it's then hard for anyone to see where the next line of text is. 

But here is what I found:

Edge Crease vs Push Bevel by  Johan Potgieter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ll-IozEcoQ

Push beader by Brian Harms  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts140rsiZI8

Horse Shoe Brand Tools (HSBT) Russell Beader, Beveler . by Billy Hell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qE9UPEyqfDo

 

 

[kseidel]

3 hours ago, Davm said:

Thank you, when I bought the edge creaser- that's what I thought it was used for, as in making belts, etc. I didn't know there was a bead creaser- so something I'll get. Is there an assortment of bead widths you can get and if so, is one better for a beginner?  Also I need some help on using it.  Let's say I am making a holster, there will be rawhide wraps on the edge and then a line or cut to separate the border from the background stamp marks.  With a beader I use dividers, etc. to mark out a line, then cut with a swivel knife and then use the beader to make a parallel line.  1. Does it make any difference to which side of the cut line I make the parallel line"  If I am gong to use a bevel tool along the cut line and then the background stamping, then it would seem logical to make the parallel line closer to the edge, not closer to the carved area- if that makes sense.  I realize you can probably do it either way but I'd like to know how the professionals do it and if they even bevel the line toward the background stamping.  Thanks again.

There are no set "rules" on how you should run these tools.  I like to cut the outside line and bead to the inside.  I do not cut the second bead line, but rather press it quite deep and go back and forth to create a deep burnished bead with the tool.  I like to push bevel the outside cut line away from the bead.  You can cut your line and place your bead any distance from the edge that you want.  This  is all relative to how you design your pattern.

[billybopp]

I have a beader blade for my swivel knife that I like to use.  Mine was a cheapie from eBay, but Barry King makes them too, in varying widths.  

That's what I used for the name outline on this guitar strap.

 

[Davm]

Well last night I filed out a dowel and tried it to see how wide a bead I wanted, etc.  Off hand the swivel knife cut creates a different bead than the line parallel to it however if the background stamp, etc. goes up to it- probably won't notice. Thanks to all for introducing me to this tool, I didn't know it existed.

[Davm]

Well, whole new world. So far I've bought everything I use at a local Tandy however they don't have beader-creasing tools.  What are a couple of the outfits you folks buy tools from that you like? Thanks.