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Posted
34 minutes ago, Davidmadd said:

there is no facility to lower the presser foot as far as I am aware and I'm not sure what the reference to a gauge is.

The gauge I was referencing is the stitch regulator that is slid up or down to change the length of stitch. I am wondering wether this may have jammed the pressor foot in an upward position.

Since I don't have a parts manual for 29k-4 I would ask you to check and see if you can follow the section " To Regulate the automatic Lift of the Feeding Foot" on page 13 using Fig. 31 of the 29k-71 to change the height of the pressor foot.

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted

Thanks kgg - I will have a look at that but in the meantime I have managed to get it to stitch.  I did get a new presser foot and fitted that, and sure enough it moved the material under the foot, I then threaded it and lo and behold it stitched a piece of leather. Not a brilliant stitch but pretty good for a first attempt.  The gauge does move up and down and does make some difference to the stitch length but on the longest stitch setting its only 9 or 10 per inch which seems a bit small to me. I have read that wear takes a toll on the stitch length but not sure which bit wears. So from here on in it will be a bit of fine tuning.  Whether or not I actually use it in anger remains to be seen so I will end this topic on a high note and say many thanks for everybody's help and interest and encouragement to get to a successful conclusion.

David:Plymouth;UK

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Posted
6 hours ago, Davidmadd said:

The gauge does move up and down and does make some difference to the stitch length but on the longest stitch setting its only 9 or 10 per inch which seems a bit small to me. I have read that wear takes a toll on the stitch length but not sure which bit wears.

There are at least three parts that cause the stitches to get shorter than specs. The primary part that wears down is the Feed Motion Bell Crank Lever, #8559, followed by the Ring Slide Bar, with #1816 cam roller, and the #1801 cam roller on the back of top Needle Bar Driving Lever that fits into a cam on the back shaft behind the balance wheel. I attached the Singer 29-4 parts list in pdf format, below.

29-4 Parts list Original Singer Doc.pdf

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Thanks Wizcraft for the parts list, great pictures. 

Interesting that the main bits to cause the thread pitch to vary include the cam rollers. especially No. 1801.  When I put this one back into the cam on back of pulley wheel, I noticed it had a pronounced flat at one point on the roller and I dont know if that is a designed feature or in fact a "worn" flat. It could feasibly be a worn spot if the roller had seized on its shat up at one time.

Can you advise if it should be there?????  As the parts list picture shows just a plain shaft, I assume the shaft is a push fit into the rocking beam end???

Many thanks

David

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Posted (edited)

If #1801 has a flat spot on it, the roller is worn.  Should be round all the way around.  Replace the stud and roller with a new one. The large top rack must be removed and there is a hole on the end that you insert a drive punch in and drive the old shaft out carefully.  I always taper the the end of the new shaft on the sander just a little bit.  The new shaft and roller must be driven into the old hole. You have to get a tapered pouch that fits into the tapered hole on the end of the roller to tape it in.  If you do not and drive shaft and roller into the end of the drive rack, you will compress the peen on the roller and roller will not turn.  That is important.

glenn

 

Edited by shoepatcher
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Posted

Hi Shoepatcher - Thats great, it was such a well defined flat that I thought its feasible that it should be there but now you have confirmed that it should be truly circular I will get a new one and fit that. Hopefully it will restore the stitch length as well.

Many thanks for the advice on how to remove and fix as well.

Regards

David; Plymouth; UK

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