Adler 30-1 has me stumped

[Rance]

I recently bought an  Adler 30-1, one of the green ones, maybe from the '70's.   Hasn't been used for 40+ years according to the previous owner who couldn't get it to work.    I cannot get the timing set right.  The lead edge of the shuttle carrier simply comes short of lining up with the needle slot (per the mechanic's manual) no matter how I set the racks and pinion/drive gear.  The adjusting cam in the bell crank eye does not have enough range.   It seems like the drive rack is about 1/4" too long, the shuttle drive is an incorrect part, or the bell crank is bent, but there's no evidence of that and its pretty robust, hard to see how that could get bent.   Overall the machine is very tight, no slop in the bearings, gears, etc.    The mechanics manual I have is for a 30-10 and I think that's different from a 30-1.  Does anyone have a 30-1 mechanics manual?  Constabulary posted one, along with an owners guide back in 2014 but those links are now dead.   I've seen images of shuttle drives that are a full 8 tooth as well as partial 4 tooth ones like mine.  Which is correct for a 30-1?   Could I have a Singer drive that "fits" but has different shuttle alignment than does an Adler drive?  Only fix I can come up with is to fabricate a new adjusting cam that has a greater eccentric throw, and that seems to be a really odd thing to have to do.   All suggestions will be greatly appreciated!  Thanks. 

[Constabulary]

Your gearbox is set up correctly . But I´m not sure if there isn't missing a screw that hold the pinion on the shuttle driver - or is the screw head sheared off or is it just covered with dirt? See picture below.

Sometimes when people take apart Singer 29K or Adler 30 patchers they put on the cam pulley the wrong way meaning rotated by 180°. When the cam is rotated by 180° you will never get the timing right. But I only can guess here cause I´m not in front of your machine.

Edited March 9, 2022 by Constabulary

[Wyowally]

I had to learn about the timing adjustments underneath on the right side. On my back with extra lights to shine up in there.  If I recall there is a pinch screw to loosen, then a screwdriver through an access hole on the back right side to rotate the screw freed up by the pinch screw.  Our resident patcher expert ought to show up soon. Arrow 1 points to the pinch screw. Arrow 2 points at the nut that needs loosened. Then the screw can be turned from the back. Kind of an eccentric positioner if I remember right.

Edited March 10, 2022 by Wyowally

[shoepatcher]

that is correct as to loosening the shuttle carrier adjustment.  the long drive rack in the horn is bent and is supposed to be.   they also went to a different cam bolt and nut on the end and eliminated  the pin like fount on a 29-4  can we see pics of the long bottom drive rack out of the machine and the shuttle carrier out of the machine?

glenn

Edited March 11, 2022 by shoepatcher

[Rance]

Here are a couple of pics of the shuttle drive and drive rack.   I know about the timing bolt you have labeled 1 & 2 in your pic.  That's what doesn't have enough eccentricity to get the leading edge of the shuttle drive to line up with the needle slot.   The length of the drive rack is 20 1/8" from the end of the rack to the center of the eye.   It has slight bends in both axis which allow it to align with its respective way.   I can easily fabricate a new eccentric bolt with a larger offset which will solve the problem but that doesn't address the root cause of what's going on here.