How much extra leather do I allow for the top piece to form

[jetech]

I want to try two pancake holsters but I have a question. One will be a concealment holster for a .45 single action revolver and the other is for a .22 semi-auto.

How much extra leather if any do I allow for the top piece to form around the gun? I assume I cut the front and back out, stitch the two together, cut out the belt holes, and then wet form the top around the gun. Is this correct?

Sorry for my ignorance on this but I hate to waste leather. These will be my first holsters and I need a good starting point and welcome any help.

Thanks

[paris3200]

I'm no expert but I'll see if I can't help you out.

In my experience there is no set amount to add for the gun. I know for a 1911 I add 1/2 an inch, but I came up with this only through trial and error. I'll outline how I do things and maybe that will get you started.

I begin by tracing the outline of the gun onto thick paper like a file folder. I then draw another outline offset from the gun tracing by what I think I want to try. The offset line will eventually become your sew line. I then sketch the entire shape of the holster and add the belt loops to make sure there is enough room for sewing and the loops. Once I have a shape I am satisfied with I copy the entire design to a second file folder for later use. I then cut out the first design and assemble a holster from the file folder using tape/glue to hold it together.

Using your paper holster you can get a good idea wither or not your offset was the proper size. If your careful you can actually wear your paper holster with an UNLOADED gun around the house to ensure that the cant is correct. Just remember that your leather is going to be thicker than the paper and you need to allow for that. As long as your paper holster isn't extremely tight you should be fine. If you find that you don't like the design for any reason simply start again and make the appropriate adjustments. I've been known to go through several iterations of the a "paper holster" in order to get a design just right. If you take the time in this step you won't waste leather down the road.

Once I'm happy with my design I use the 2nd copy to create a cutting template as well as a sewing template. Using the templates I cut out the leather. Glue the 2 pieces together only between the sew lines. I then even up my edges and sew the holster together. After sewing is complete I finish my edges. The last thing I do is the molding.

Any of that make sense? If not let me know and I"ll see if I can't clear it up for you.

Jason

[jetech]

Jason

I followed your steps for the .22 cal and things came out pretty close. Once the wet molded top (or front) dried I was able to reduce the bottom some.

I molded a reinforcement for the mouth of the holster that also strengthens the belt holes.

When I get time I will glue the reinforcement to the top then start stitching.

Anyone have a recommended dye or other finish? I am thinking about a light brown finish, Maybe an olive oil or something that gives that color. I have heard good and bad about olive oil, I have never used it.

Thanks again

Edited December 26, 2007 by jetech

[paris3200]

Alright now your going to have to post a picture so we can see the results.

Dyeing is something I'm still trying to figure out. I've been dip dying before I assembly but I can't really get consistent results that I like. Hopefully someone else will chime in on the olive oil.

Jason

Edited December 26, 2007 by paris32000

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

jetech,

if you have access to a local leather supply store see if they have Angelus dye available. A lot of the pros use this to dip dye, but since you are just doing a couple of holsters I would recommend airbrushing the finish on. This will look a whole lot more even than any brush, felt or dauber. If you don't have an air brush kit you can find them at Wal-Mart, Hobby Lobby, or even at Harbor Freight between $10 and $20. After you dye the holsters you can apply an acrylic finish like Angelus 600 or resolene via the airbrush. This will result in a more professional looking holster without having to buy enough dye and finish to dip the holster. Oh, yeah - I never use an oil based product on a holster. It will become much to soft and loose its shape.

[jetech]

BOOMSTICKHolsters

Thanks, I will look for those products.

paris32000

Pictures may take a while, I have to work through the weekend and won't have time to finish the holster this week.

Edited December 27, 2007 by jetech

[Spinner]

Just a side note regarding kitchen oils. We experimented with a number of them in woodturning and Olive Oil (along with Canola and the normal cooking oils are not a good idea. Many have additives from corn, rice, veggies, etc. that will go rancid over time. Neatsfoot is probably the best choice for leather goods.

However, if you're looking for an oil other than neatsfoot (allergies, etc) Walnut Oil is available from most grocers and is great for finishing products. Walnut Oil doesn't go rancid and will help resist some types of stains, particularly food/mold related. You can also find complementary Walnut Oil waxes for finishing/burnishing and it leaves a very homey, familiar smell that folks like.

Here is a product I have used for years on food safe wood products and have tried a few times on leather with decent results:

Walnut Oil Utility Finish

Walnut Oil Wax

[Dwight]

There is another little trick I sometimes use on a special holster for a special gun. In your case, it is especially relevant for pancakes.

Cut out a piece of leather for the front and one for the back, making sure the back has enough extra for a sweat shield if you are so inclined.

Cut the leading edge on both pieces, mark the angle you want for any cant you are adding to it. Make that line for the angle, about 2 inches back from the back side of the front belt slot. Cement the front of the holster together from that cant line to the front of it, . . . cut it out, . . . shape it, . . . punch the belt loop, . . . and sew the front of it together.

Wet both pieces real good, . . . form them around the weapon. Lay some where to dry, . . . after it is dry, . . . trim the excess of the back and the front, . . . mark your rear belt slot, . . . glue and sew the rear part of the holster, . . . edge, burnish, and finish.

Any customer wanting a pancake and who is willing to leave me their weapon can get their pancake in about 72 hours this way.

May God bless,

Dwight