Tanners Bond Contact Cement Problem. Please Help.

[NewYorkerInSydney]

Hi everyone,

I need some help. I've recently started using Tanners Bond Contact Cement because everyone kept telling me that it is stronger and better than what I was using before which was Tanners Bond Leathercraft Cement.

Ok, I've tried using this several times and I don't know what I am doing wrong, but after I glue the items and let them dry, I find that the leather slides around and even comes apart. I was told that after I apply the glue to the underside of leather that I should let it dry a few minutes until it is no longer tacky to the touch. I tried that but the leather still comes apart easily. Can someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me the CORRECT way to use Tanners Bond Contact Cement? I really appreciate it.

Thank you,

NYIS

[Andrew Chee]

Hi everyone,

I need some help. I've recently started using Tanners Bond Contact Cement because everyone kept telling me that it is stronger and better than what I was using before which was Tanners Bond Leathercraft Cement.

Ok, I've tried using this several times and I don't know what I am doing wrong, but after I glue the items and let them dry, I find that the leather slides around and even comes apart. I was told that after I apply the glue to the underside of leather that I should let it dry a few minutes until it is no longer tacky to the touch. I tried that but the leather still comes apart easily. Can someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me the CORRECT way to use Tanners Bond Contact Cement? I really appreciate it.

Thank you,

NYIS

This might be a dumb question but do you apply the glue to both sides that you are gluing together? Basically you have to apply glue to all sides that touch, let the glue dry a few minutes until it is tacky to the touch but no longer wet. Then when you stick the pieces together, do it as precisely as possible because it'll stick like crazy right away.

Leathercraft cement (the white stuff) can be applied to only one surface, stuck together while wet, repositioned while glue is still wet, and left to dry. Contact cement doesn't work that way.

If you have been doing that and it still doesn't work then I have no idea. That would just be weird. Hope this helps.

Andrew

[Art]

Contact cement should be applied to both sides and then you should wait UNTIL it is tacky to the touch, not until it is not tacky to the tough. Somewhere between 5 to 15 minutes is the open time for these products. If you have waited too long, then another application of cement or heat will do the trick -- nix the heat, I have not tried the new formulae they are using now a days. There is no way anything should move around after proper application. Don't even try to reposition after sticking together, once contact has been made, they rip apart.

Art

Hi everyone,

I need some help. I've recently started using Tanners Bond Contact Cement because everyone kept telling me that it is stronger and better than what I was using before which was Tanners Bond Leathercraft Cement.

Ok, I've tried using this several times and I don't know what I am doing wrong, but after I glue the items and let them dry, I find that the leather slides around and even comes apart. I was told that after I apply the glue to the underside of leather that I should let it dry a few minutes until it is no longer tacky to the touch. I tried that but the leather still comes apart easily. Can someone PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me the CORRECT way to use Tanners Bond Contact Cement? I really appreciate it.

Thank you,

NYIS

[NewYorkerInSydney]

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for your replies. I appreciate it. Ok. So I have tried now to glue while it is tacky as you said. I did this yesterday and let this stuff dry over night so I can make sure its dried. So I test it by trying to pull it apart. Its not easy, BUT it still slides around. I glued two surfaces together after applying the glue to both sides and letting it get tacky for a few minutes. I left it alone and cut the leather into belt width strips. When I flex it (twist it slightly the way it would if it were used over your shoulder as a bag strap) you can see from the edges that they are sliding a little bit. THere is nothing firm about it. This is bad because the edges are not aligned anymore. This is SO frustrating. I had been using the white tandy leather cement that is water based and that seemed to hold way better than this. Any ideas? I don't think its a bad batch of glue here as I purchased several bottles of this stuff from two different places. I'm two seconds from quitting this and using the white water based glue again. I look forward to hearing from you.

Best,

NYIS

[JHayek]

Hi guys,

Thanks so much for your replies. I appreciate it. Ok. So I have tried now to glue while it is tacky as you said. I did this yesterday and let this stuff dry over night so I can make sure its dried. So I test it by trying to pull it apart. Its not easy, BUT it still slides around. I glued two surfaces together after applying the glue to both sides and letting it get tacky for a few minutes. I left it alone and cut the leather into belt width strips. When I flex it (twist it slightly the way it would if it were used over your shoulder as a bag strap) you can see from the edges that they are sliding a little bit. THere is nothing firm about it. This is bad because the edges are not aligned anymore. This is SO frustrating. I had been using the white tandy leather cement that is water based and that seemed to hold way better than this. Any ideas? I don't think its a bad batch of glue here as I purchased several bottles of this stuff from two different places. I'm two seconds from quitting this and using the white water based glue again. I look forward to hearing from you.

Best,

NYIS

I have not had the problems you are having. Here is how I go about applying contact cement.(tanners bond, masters, xl8, s-18 all seem to work about the same. barge sucks)

1). make sure the glue is of the right consistancy. If not in the original container it will thicken until it is of no use. if thicher than original but still a liquid it can be thinned with tanners bond thinner(in this case since you are using tanners bond)

2) apply a THIN even coat to both sides that are to be glued. To thick of a coating will cause the bond to slip or "ooze" out of the edges.

3) wait untill it is just tacky to the touch. If you wait too long the bond wont be very strong, if you stick it too soon it will "slip" If it slips a little wait a 30 sec. to a couple min. and rub down again.

4)after the pieces are stuck together they must be rubbed together using a slicker or a bouncer. (a glass doorknob will work as well) The glue works as much off of the pressure as the chemical reaction.

I do not mean to be condescending here just outlining what has worked for me, that being said if you are happy with the water based glue then use it the contact cement is not good for you and over time it can cause problems with your sinuses and lungs if not used in a verry well ventilated area. hope this has been of some help

[Ladykahu]

I had similar issues from the sounds of it as you are having, I found that I was putting TO much glue on each side. I now use two strips of leather glued together (an off cut) thats a good solid 1cm square to scrape the glue , and I really do mean scrape! onto each side. I get much better 'stickage' with the really thin layer than I did when I applied it to thickly. I then squash it down well with either my hand or a handle of some sort, then leave it under some heavy books for a few hours. Then overnight before I touch it again.

I am no expert.. still working out this stuff for myself but I have better results lately with this method.

Natalie

[NewYorkerInSydney]

Hello everyone,

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to me. I appreciate it so much. I have started testing the glue again on a bunch of strips with everyones advice to see if it works better for me this time. I will keep you updated. THANKS SO MUCH AGAIN.

Kind regards,

Brooklyn girl in Sydney

[hockeykspiky]

If you are gluing the grain side you have to buff the surface to make it rough

[Dwight]

I have never used Tanners Bond contact cement, . . . but I have used others for the last 50 years, . . . and if Tanners Bond acts like everyone has said above, . . . it is junk and should rest easy in the local land fill or city dump.

Weldwood is what I use on my holsters, belts, purses, sheaths, straps, . . . shoes, shoe soles, etc.

I have shoes I wear that have new soles applied with Weldwood, . . . never sewn, . . . ABSOLUTELY no problem.

A friend has a .380 holster that was put together with Weldwood, . . . never sewn, . . . ABSOLUTELY no problem.

Weldwood is applied to both pieces, . . . and dried until it is DRY to the touch. Not tacky, . . . not wet, . . . DRY. It is then positioned and placed together, . . . then pressed by hand, by a rolling pin, by a wall paper roller, by thumbs, . . . and some even put weights on it if the application allows it.

I actually dry most of my pieces with a small, low wattage heat gun, . . . then put them together.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited December 20, 2014 by Dwight

[JLSleather]

It is possible that the glue has gone bad since 2012 when the original post was made.

Other than that, I have used and do use tanner's bond. Ordinarily, I use Barge, but I was a bit low and near a Tandy one day, so I currently have some. Gluing lined belts with it all month -- no problems (other than the fact that the stuff really stinks).

[DavidL]

You have to wear a mask because theres toxic chemicals in the cement right?? After it sets you shouldn't have trouble?

How about any water based non toxic, natural glue or toxic free contact cements?

[Dwight]

You have to wear a mask because theres toxic chemicals in the cement right?? After it sets you shouldn't have trouble?

How about any water based non toxic, natural glue or toxic free contact cements?

No, . . . the mask is only required if you are subbing as a terrorist while the glue dries.

May God bless,

Dwight

[raysouth]

Give DAP WELDWOOD, in the green label can. No odor, easy to work with and no problems with holding. Also, available at Lowes, Home depot and other hardware, woodcraft shops, etc.

Easy on the pocket book as well.

Merry Christmas and god Bless.

Ray

[Markfl]

First of all, thanks for good info on the contact cement(s). I would like to caution folks that down play the hazards of these chemicals. While I am by no means an expert on leather work, I am an expert in firefighting with 31 years. I responded to a fire in a shoe and boot repair shop where a man was using contact cement on a cold day. A space heater, in combination with the fumes, caused a flash fire that burned him and subsequently destroyed his shop. He survived however, with minor (1-2) flash burns. Could have been worse.

I don't mean to be an alarmist or discredit any post here; however, chemicals in these products are highly flammable and are damaging to lungs. Best practice is a well ventilated area. Positive pressure ventilation (e.g., a fan blowing into the space) with a exhaust exit is best. This method prevents a fan motor from being the ignition source. Air flow lowers the amount of vapor to air ratio, therefore it cannot have ignition. Masks are usually recommended by OSHA in situations like body shop paint booths where the painter is in close proximity the fumes and particles. Down draft ventilation is mostly used there. Vapor masks are expensive, cumbersome, and impractical in a leather shop setting.

Its important to note that there must be the right combination of vapor and air, along with an ignition source to produce a fire or explosion. If you ever want to know about any product Google the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet).

MHO