Need Help With Leather Dyes!

[JennMetesh]

I'm new to leather craft and would you all please walk me through how you dye and finish your leather projects? There are so many products out there I am at a lost as of what to do that will have lasting results. I have made a few flask covers that I have dyed with the Eco Flo all in one stain and finish, and then sprayed with an acrylic finish, but I'm thinking that may not be the best route. I'm looking for a way that I can dye and add bright colors while still being able to put a product to the test (like horse tack that is exposed to sweat and water.)

Would you all be able to walk me through the process as well as reference the products you use to dye and finish and possibly waterproof your leather projects? Do you recommended using oil based dyes vs water based? Would you recommend using acrylic paint to add color to projects or colored dyes?

My biggest concern is dying leather for use like for horse tack and having the dyes smear all over your hands when you go to use it or smear all over the horse when it sweats.

Then when you finish your project what products do you use to condition it and keep it supple and lasting without damaging the colors?

Sorry to ask so many questions but there isn't much of a resource (that I've found) to answer these questions. I appreciate it!!

- Jenn

[Dwight]

I'm new to leather craft and would you all please walk me through how you dye and finish your leather projects? There are so many products out there I am at a lost as of what to do that will have lasting results. I have made a few flask covers that I have dyed with the Eco Flo all in one stain and finish, and then sprayed with an acrylic finish, but I'm thinking that may not be the best route. I'm looking for a way that I can dye and add bright colors while still being able to put a product to the test (like horse tack that is exposed to sweat and water.)

Would you all be able to walk me through the process as well as reference the products you use to dye and finish and possibly waterproof your leather projects? Do you recommended using oil based dyes vs water based? Would you recommend using acrylic paint to add color to projects or colored dyes?

My biggest concern is dying leather for use like for horse tack and having the dyes smear all over your hands when you go to use it or smear all over the horse when it sweats.

Then when you finish your project what products do you use to condition it and keep it supple and lasting without damaging the colors?

Sorry to ask so many questions but there isn't much of a resource (that I've found) to answer these questions. I appreciate it!!

- Jenn

Jenn, . . . I do holsters, belts, knife sheaths, chaps, chinks, . . . and assorted & sundry other leather "stuff".

If you want to avoid the hassle, . . . buy pre-dyed leather, . . . many folks do that, . . . they do not have "dye" problems for 99% of the time.

I don't like being limited as to my color choices, . . . so I dye my own projects.

I use Feibings oil dye, . . . generally cut 50/50 with their reducer, . . . and I "dip" dye, . . . meaning I submerge my product for several seconds in the dye, . . . none of that dauber / brush / mop, . . . etc, . . . dunk it and dye it is my motto.

I then let it dry a full 24 hours, . . . lay it flat, . . . flesh side down if you can. Avoid hanging up large or long projects, . . . the dye will migrate to the bottom, giving you a light color on top, . . . darker on the bottom, . . .

I then get a wash cloth type rag, . . . and buff the item until no more pigment comes off it. It will also shine a bit when I'm done. I use white paper towels to make sure there is no more rub off.

Depending on the product, . . . Resolene (50/50 with water) or Bag Kote (80/20 with water) or Aussie Wax, . . . depending on the effect and the finish I want.

Resolene is a hard, acrylic finish, . . . also sun proof. I like it best.

Bag Kote is a softer finish, . . . not sun proof, . . . aggravating sometimes to work with, . . . produces a softer finish.

Aussie Wax is a soft finish, . . . nice feel.

NONE are water proof, . . . you want vinyl, nylon, rayon, or aluminum for that, . . . leather cannot be water PROOFED.

A good dye job, properly rubbed down, . . . and at the least, a coat of neetsfoot oil and another rubbing, . . . there should be no problem with dye rubbing off.

Acrylic paints do add a nice color to projects.

My personal opinion of water based dyes is not very good, . . . but then again I have a process i like and works for me, . . . so I don't have to re-invent the wheel.

As far as the colors lasting, . . . staying brilliant and beautiful, . . . put it in a showcase, lock it, it'll stay that way. Take a piece of leather out and use it, . . . it won't.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JennMetesh]

Thanks for your input Dwight!

I guess waterproof was the wrong word to use. I just don't want the dye to run when it gets wet like if it were out in the rain. I would like to have the ability to add different colors to my projects. Would you finish a product differently if you used acrylic paints or would it be better to used colored dyes?

Once you finish a product with the Resolene can you condition the leather at a later date to keep it soft or do you have to do that before it is finished?

You had mentioned pre-dyed leather, but can you stamp and tool that?

Thanks for your help!

[Carrieanna1172]

does the buffing and rubbing also go for that Usmc black by fiebings?

I love how dark and black that is but I am buffing and buffing and using a fiebings conditioner and I'm still

Getting bleeding

I think I need to buy a buffer ?

[jrny4wrd]

Arebu using fiebings conditioner on the eco-flo?

Jenn, . . . I do holsters, belts, knife sheaths, chaps, chinks, . . . and assorted & sundry other leather "stuff".

If you want to avoid the hassle, . . . buy pre-dyed leather, . . . many folks do that, . . . they do not have "dye" problems for 99% of the time.

I don't like being limited as to my color choices, . . . so I dye my own projects.

I use Feibings oil dye, . . . generally cut 50/50 with their reducer, . . . and I "dip" dye, . . . meaning I submerge my product for several seconds in the dye, . . . none of that dauber / brush / mop, . . . etc, . . . dunk it and dye it is my motto.

I then let it dry a full 24 hours, . . . lay it flat, . . . flesh side down if you can. Avoid hanging up large or long projects, . . . the dye will migrate to the bottom, giving you a light color on top, . . . darker on the bottom, . . .

I then get a wash cloth type rag, . . . and buff the item until no more pigment comes off it. It will also shine a bit when I'm done. I use white paper towels to make sure there is no more rub off.

Depending on the product, . . . Resolene (50/50 with water) or Bag Kote (80/20 with water) or Aussie Wax, . . . depending on the effect and the finish I want.

Resolene is a hard, acrylic finish, . . . also sun proof. I like it best.

Bag Kote is a softer finish, . . . not sun proof, . . . aggravating sometimes to work with, . . . produces a softer finish.

Aussie Wax is a soft finish, . . . nice feel.

NONE are water proof, . . . you want vinyl, nylon, rayon, or aluminum for that, . . . leather cannot be water PROOFED.

A good dye job, properly rubbed down, . . . and at the least, a coat of neetsfoot oil and another rubbing, . . . there should be no problem with dye rubbing off.

Acrylic paints do add a nice color to projects.

My personal opinion of water based dyes is not very good, . . . but then again I have a process i like and works for me, . . . so I don't have to re-invent the wheel.

As far as the colors lasting, . . . staying brilliant and beautiful, . . . put it in a showcase, lock it, it'll stay that way. Take a piece of leather out and use it, . . . it won't.

May God bless,

Dwight

Shoot, didn't mean to ask you Dwight.

Edited February 2, 2015 by jrny4wrd