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The Grizzly

How Do You Keep Light Colored Thread Clean On Dark Items?

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Hey folks.

I just finished up a leather sheath for a guy that was drum dyed black. I thought I would use some waxed white thread instead of black for a nice contrast. I got halfway through my stitching and ripped it all out, it was dingy from picking up black pigment inside the stitch holes.

I've seen plenty of items done in black or dark brown that uses a light or white thread and the thread is immaculate.

Any suggestions?

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Since you didn't say, I'll assume you are hand stitching, . . . which is something I rarely do, . . . and abhor the thought from the gitgo.

The first thing to do, . . . let it dry, . . . never think about sewing something that was dyed within the last 24 to 48 hours. That may be a bit long, . . . but it beats the heck out of the alternative: ripping out the dirty thread and re stitching it 2 or 3 times. That gets old in a quick hurry.

BUT, . . . I have also learned, . . . for my own use, . . . to add about 30 inches to a holster, . . . on each needle, . . . before I sew.

At the end, . . . I'll have thrown away an extra 5 feet of thread, . . . but all the trash, dye, oil, dirt, grime, and ugly on the thread, . . . will be in that "leader" thread.

There are probably a dozen other ways, . . . but that is the way I do it, . . . whether saddle stitching or using a sail needle. Works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Never thought of that, adding extra thread, Ill have to try that and see if it helps. The leather was predyed horsehide in black and was dry when I started stitching.

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Part of your problem is you are using Horse which in my humble opinion is junk and if you are using USMC Black you will continue to suffer. If you have any hope of using white thread on black you need to use Fiebings Pro oil dye. Even still you may have a problem with that hand stitching.

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You might think about a synthetic thread. Most of the time it won't change colors when hitting die.

Joel

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Craig,

Dwight's suggestion to use some extra thread was pretty good, it seems like the first 6" from the needles usually get it the worst. You can also see a lot of improvement just by going over your stitches with your overstitch wheel after you get done. I rarely make anything that is truely black but here's some that are certainly dark and the stitching stayed pretty white.

FYI, the IWB is dyed with eco-flow dark coco brown (cut with a little water to give it a little distressed look) and a resolene top coat and the western rig is fiebings liquid antique black with leather balm for a top coat.

Good luck,

Josh

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I nearly always use a light colored Irish linen thread in all my projects and don't have any problems with it picking up dye, even when using USMC black. I stitch as the second to last step, after letting the dye dry at least overnight and applying a couple of coats of Resolene to stabilize the finish. I haven't used any pre-dyed leather, but maybe if you applied a couple coats of your favorite finish before stitching it might help??

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when i bake my holsters, that will usually lighten up the threads...dont know why, but its always worked when i hand sew with waxed linen...

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Dwight, awesome suggestion on adding a few extra feet of thread. I immediately saw a vast improvement with lightly waxed thread and Horween bovine Chromexcel, which usually leaves my thread filthy so I just use darker colors. Thank you!

Good suggestion on the overstitch wheel, Josh. Am I correct that this is one of the 2 intended uses (marking stitches and pressing them after sewed up)?

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Grizzly, on drum dyed take a coarse rag and rub vigorously along your stitch line. This will remove most of any loose pigment. Then I do like Dwight I use a couple more feet of thread then I will need, knowing that the first couple of feet will be waist.

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