RMB Custom Leather Report post Posted November 21, 2010 Can you use 3 in 1 oil on leather stichers, I have a class 3 cobra? if not why? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGGUNDOCTOR Report post Posted November 21, 2010 What does the manual say to use? Cobra Steve should also be able to tell you. what you need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deb59 Report post Posted November 21, 2010 What does the manual say to use? Cobra Steve should also be able to tell you. what you need. The oil that came with my Cobra Class 4 was a Stainless Sewing machine oil. The brand is Fetitsew in a 4 oz bottle with what is called a zoom spout (telescoping spout) I have seen bottles similar to this in most sewing and hobby stores in the sewing section. Hope this helps - Deb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RMB Custom Leather Report post Posted November 21, 2010 Yea I was just in a pinch and not able to get my hands on a bottle that says "sewing machine oil" I have been told that 3 in 1 would would work just as good. I am sure that the manual says sewing machine oil but I have a feeling that here are several oils out there that one could use. Thanks everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted November 21, 2010 Do you think WD 40 would do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted November 21, 2010 Do you think WD 40 would do? NO! Don't ever use WD-40, or 409 on a sewing machine, except to clean the body of the machine, or the table. Also, do NOT use 3 in 1 oil to lubricate any sewing machine. It contains solvents! Only use 3 in 1 oil to loosen junk that builds up in oil holes, or stuck screws, then chase it out with industrial sewing machine or Lily oil. Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines - 866-362-7397 - and every other industrial sewing machine dealer stocks the proper sewing machine oil, in quarts and gallons. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RMB Custom Leather Report post Posted November 22, 2010 NO! Don't ever use WD-40, or 409 on a sewing machine, except to clean the body of the machine, or the table. Also, do NOT use 3 in 1 oil to lubricate any sewing machine. It contains solvents! Only use 3 in 1 oil to loosen junk that builds up in oil holes, or stuck screws, then chase it out with industrial sewing machine or Lily oil. Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines - 866-362-7397 - and every other industrial sewing machine dealer stocks the proper sewing machine oil, in quarts and gallons. Thanks for the information. What would the solvents do to the machine? I plan on getting the right oil ASAP but 3 in 1 was better then running it dry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) Thanks for the information. What would the solvents do to the machine? I plan on getting the right oil ASAP but 3 in 1 was better then running it dry. The solvents will attack the bronze bearings. Mind you, this will be a slow and imperceptible process. Also, it is heavier than actual sewing machine oil and contains parafin, which can gum up bearings over time. The saving grace is that you have a slow speed sewing machine. If you have a sewing supplies store nearby, like Joann Fabrics, or Hobby Lobby, or a Singer store, Walmart, etc, go there and buy a few 4 ounce bottles of sewing machine oil. When you get a chance, order a quart or a gallon of Lily White Sewing Machine Oil, from an industrial sewing supplier. Lily White Sewing Machine Oil: Highly refined, low viscosity and virtually colorless. Perfect lubricant for Sewing and Embroidery machines. Also used in cutting machines and other machinery which comes into contact with fabric. Stains become much less noticeable and easily removed than stains from standard machine oils. Edited November 22, 2010 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 22, 2010 No No please. 3 in 1 is not great either. Any oil with a carrier that evaporates is just not good, it deposits when the carrier evaporates and builds up over time to GUNK. Standard sewing machine oil is light mineral oil. I don't know what the stainless sewing machine oil is, but it works fine also. You can get that at most sewing stores etc., commonly under the name Dritz. There are also a few extreme condition and high-tech oils that will work very well, but unless your machine is in an unheated shed in Minot North Dakota, it might be a waste. Hydraulic Oil is also a highly refined mineral oil that I have seen mixed 50-50 with standard sewing machine oil (Lilly) for a custom solution by a prominent dealer. The Dritz stuff is clear and stays clear and works fine, it usually comes in a little spout bottle that lasts over a year in daily use. A drop on each oil point every shift is the standard use. Mineral oil will turn golden over time. Art Do you think WD 40 would do? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted November 23, 2010 I have been following the drop a day advice and probably heard it from Art back in my early IILG days. I started off with the advice to use a little Prolong oil additive in hydraulic oil. A few years ago they had that whole flap about the super friction fighting, surface binding oil additives not doing what they promised so I'm not sure what it did now. About that time I got some Lily anyway. The Lily is about gone, so guys - more Lily with shipping charges? hydraulic oil I can buy at 10 places along the drive home? Buy some Dritz from the sewing machine guy who practically mugs me out of appreciation for not being a crabby woman who ran over her vacuum cleaner cord again and wants it replaced while she waits? Now another question that gets to the solvents. I have been using Ballistol to clean my machines for about the same length of time. In regular use, I clean my machines about once a week, taking off plates, remove the hook and shuttle, and looking for gunk. If I am doing repairs, I clean after those for sure. My concern now is that I just willy-nilly spray into the shuttle area and Q-tip/paper towel it out. I add a few drops of oil to the race and dab a little on the bobbin case. Any thoughts or advice there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 23, 2010 Hi Bruce, I am a proponent of Ballistol for cleaning and protecting my guns and gear. I use it a lot on black powder guns for cleaning and protecting from rust, especially after cleaning in water. I get much less buildup in the lockwork than I did with WD-40. In fact, Ballistol has pretty much replaced WD-40 in my shop. I use other high tech lubes for hard working guns like auto handguns and longguns. I do not use Ballistol as a lubricant. I have used the high tech lubes on the sewing machines (why not) but I can't give you a thumbs up or down as to effectiveness, at least nothing went wrong. Lilly and the Dritz stainless work just fine in the machines, I buy it in gallons from Campbell-Bosworth (the Lilly not the Dritz). I am pretty sure the Lilly is really a Randall formulation. I can't see where Hydraulic oil is any better or worse as long as they don't doctor it up too much, and a little high tech additive is not going to hurt a bronze or roller bearing. If I was running a room full of high speed machines two or three shifts a day, I might be on a quest for something special, but then I would be oiling every shift anyway unless they have automatic oilers, regular mineral oil sewing machine lubes should do just fine. Art I have been following the drop a day advice and probably heard it from Art back in my early IILG days. I started off with the advice to use a little Prolong oil additive in hydraulic oil. A few years ago they had that whole flap about the super friction fighting, surface binding oil additives not doing what they promised so I'm not sure what it did now. About that time I got some Lily anyway. The Lily is about gone, so guys - more Lily with shipping charges? hydraulic oil I can buy at 10 places along the drive home? Buy some Dritz from the sewing machine guy who practically mugs me out of appreciation for not being a crabby woman who ran over her vacuum cleaner cord again and wants it replaced while she waits? Now another question that gets to the solvents. I have been using Ballistol to clean my machines for about the same length of time. In regular use, I clean my machines about once a week, taking off plates, remove the hook and shuttle, and looking for gunk. If I am doing repairs, I clean after those for sure. My concern now is that I just willy-nilly spray into the shuttle area and Q-tip/paper towel it out. I add a few drops of oil to the race and dab a little on the bobbin case. Any thoughts or advice there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted November 23, 2010 To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 23, 2010 Properties of hydraulic fluid (mineral oil) * Viscosity for film maintenance * Low temperature fluidity * Thermal and oxidative stability * Hydrolytic stability / water tolerance * Cleanliness and filterability * Demulsibility * Antiwear characteristics * Corrosion control I doubt you will get much of that from WD-40. The one thing you do get from WD-40 is solvents. Go ahead and give WD-40 a call, 1-888-324-7596, ask if it is good for oiling your sewing machine, if they give it the OK, then make your choice. I still say mineral oil. Art To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted November 23, 2010 Properties of hydraulic fluid (mineral oil) * Viscosity for film maintenance * Low temperature fluidity * Thermal and oxidative stability * Hydrolytic stability / water tolerance * Cleanliness and filterability * Demulsibility * Antiwear characteristics * Corrosion control I doubt you will get much of that from WD-40. The one thing you do get from WD-40 is solvents. Go ahead and give WD-40 a call, 1-888-324-7596, ask if it is good for oiling your sewing machine, if they give it the OK, then make your choice. I still say mineral oil. Art OK Art, it sounds like you know what you are talking about, so I´ll buy your advice ! Are all hydraulic oils of mineral type and suited for oiling a sewing machine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 23, 2010 In today's world I wouldn't guarantee that. Read the label, but I suspect they are mostly mineral oil, it just works. They can't adulterate it too badly or they might affect the non-compressibility aspect. Nonetheless, regular old light mineral oil will work just fine too. It is just easier to find hydraulic fluid at TSC or John Deere or the Auto parts store. If there is a choice between light and heavy, choose lite. Art OK Art, it sounds like you know what you are talking about, so I´ll buy your advice ! Are all hydraulic oils of mineral type and suited for oiling a sewing machine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted November 23, 2010 To me it sounds a bit strange to use hydraulic oil instead of an oil that is supposed to be used as a lubricant , for example WD-40. WD-40 is NOT a lubricant!!! It is a protective film and as said it has solvents....when u check back in a few weeks it will have gummed up, because the film is still there and solvent whent into the air....WD-40 has been specially invented to cover/film/seal metal parts on rockets in the 40ties or so, never meant to be a lubricant that carries a oil film in between to metals to prevent ceasing or abreasion.....Ohhh and that German Balistrol stuff works wonder on German air rifles and dog fleas....@@@@ Not on sewing machines....!!! Hope I spelled all this right.....and call Bob Kovar he has Gallons of the right stuff to use.... Aloha.... Jimbob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) Can you use 3 in 1 oil on leather stichers, I have a class 3 cobra? if not why? Hey Rob, use sewing machine oil, or mineral oil, these are light weight lubricants. Jimbob, Art and Wiz are right. Steve Edited November 23, 2010 by Cobra Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catskin Report post Posted November 23, 2010 I was sent info. recently on all the uses of WD 40 and IF it is true, it is nothing more than FISH OIL. It was claimed that it is NON TOXIC. IF and I do say if that is true the claim that it has solvents in it might be questionable. As for its lubricating qualities I am making no claims either way. I will be interested if somebody checks this out as to its true contents. I haven't had time yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted November 24, 2010 (edited) As the others have said DO NOT use WD40 as a lubricant,I would only use it on rusty bolts to free them up even then there's alot better lube to use than WD.I think the confusion comes from the can it's self,as they write lubricates ,penetrates,protects on the side. We have the sewing machine oil in 2-grades standard stainless(clear) & a heavier oil that isn't clear for heavy Industrial machines.And that's what we recommend to use. Bob Edited November 24, 2010 by sewmun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted November 24, 2010 A big concern of mine are the health issues connected to hydraulic oil. A Google search reveals that there are many additives in hydraulic oil, some of them cancerous, which tells me that I should avoid it , if there are other choices. I called a sewing machine company today, and they suggested CRC Power Lube ( with PTFE) . What do you think of that lubricant ? / Knut Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted November 24, 2010 Knut, We've used the CRC power lube before & it is good oil for a machine,it is alittle heavier than standard oil. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 24, 2010 I guess you can paint that with the same brush? Product Name CRC 3045 POWER LUBE WITH P.T.F.E (AEROSOL) 3. COMPOSITION/ INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Ingredient Formula CAS No. Content 2-METHYLPENTANE C6-H14 107-83-5 30-40% PETROLEUM HYDROTREATED HEAVY PARAFFINIC Not Available 64742-54-7 23-33% ACETONE C3-H6-O 67-64-1 20-30% LIQUEFIED PETROLEUM GAS (LPG) C3H8/C3H6/C4H10 68476-85-7 10-30% N-HEXANE C6-H14 110-54-3 <10% DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL METHYL ETHER C7-H16-O3 34590-94-8 <10% ZINC DITHIOPHOSPHATE Not Available 19210-06-1 <10% METHYL SALICYLATE C8-H8-O3 119-36-8 <5% POLYTETRAFLUOROETHYLENE (TEFLON) (C2-F4)x 9002-84-0 Not Available Art A big concern of mine are the health issues connected to hydraulic oil. A Google search reveals that there are many additives in hydraulic oil, some of them cancerous, which tells me that I should avoid it , if there are other choices. I called a sewing machine company today, and they suggested CRC Power Lube ( with PTFE) . What do you think of that lubricant ? / Knut Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtimer Report post Posted November 24, 2010 Knut, We've used the CRC power lube before & it is good oil for a machine,it is alittle heavier than standard oil. Thank´s Sewmun, that sounds great ! I´ll go and buy me a can tomorrow and give my friend Adler 205 a shot / Knut Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CowboyBob Report post Posted November 24, 2010 Knut, We used to get it in a gallon container.If they have any try the CRC 556 it works 3x better than WD40 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
