weight of leather for pocket/wallet holster

[cumberlandhighpower]

hello,

what weight of leather is suggested for pocket and wallet holsters?

is 5/6oz too thin for front pocket holsters?

thanks guys!

[Lobo]

Pocket holsters are generally limited to small framed revolvers and semi-autos. No need for a great deal of strength. I use 4-5 oz. veg-tanned, rough side out to increase friction within the pocket. I make these somewhat oversized to facilitate easy draw and I don't form the holster closely or tightly to the handgun (just closely enough to maintain the handgun in a constant position). In my opinion, the holster should reduce and conceal the profile of the handgun, so any details that might "print" through the pocket fabric should be avoided.

[Jared]

As a question.. if the pocket holster is small, would the higher weight make it easier to conceal printing? If it is for a pocket holster, I would assume it gets additional friction from sliding, moviing, and rolling around in a pocket all day. Since I haven't ever had a gun to carry in the pocket, or really thought about it much, 4-5 just sounded small. Since I don't carry in the pocket, just thought I would mention my thoughts to see the reasons for the light weight.

[Lobo]

As a question.. if the pocket holster is small, would the higher weight make it easier to conceal printing? If it is for a pocket holster, I would assume it gets additional friction from sliding, moviing, and rolling around in a pocket all day. Since I haven't ever had a gun to carry in the pocket, or really thought about it much, 4-5 just sounded small. Since I don't carry in the pocket, just thought I would mention my thoughts to see the reasons for the light weight.

Jared: I suggest the use of lighter weight leather to minimize bulk. I realize that we are only talking about small fractions of an inch, but I think the thinner the package is the more comfortable is is to have in the pocket. I suggest the rough side out to take advantage of the rough surface to hold the holster in place (we don't want it to be sliding, moving, or rolling around in the pocket; and we want the holster to stay in the pocket when the handgun is drawn). 4-oz. veg-tanned cowhide is about 1/16" thickness, which is pretty thin, but after wet-molding it is surprisingly rigid. Sealed with acrylic, it should remain that way for a long time.

[K-Man]

Here's my perspective. I've had the opportunity to make a great number of pocket holsters, so my comments are based on my experience, my knowledge, and my research of pocket holsters made by the top names in the business.

The ideal ounce weight/thickness is 5.5 - 6. I have my leather split to 5.5 ounce thickness by Hermann Oak. They have a .5 oz variable on either side of that - meaning the leather is going to be 5-6 ounce in thickness ultimately.

IMO, using a lighter weight leather than mentioned above lends to a much shorter lifetime of the holster, especially for the heavier pocket-sized guns. In other words, it's going to break down and ultimately become useless in short order. For example, let's say you buy a piece of H.O. advertised as 4/5 oz. You're actually getting a thickness ultimately that ranges from 3.5 - 5.5 oz. The thickness of 3.5 oz is, IMO, way too thin for a functional and durable holster. YMMV.

With respect to boning or detailing the holster, that's where the retention is incorporated. By just sticking the gun into the holster without doing that lends to the opportunity for the gun to fall out of the holster itself and very possibly out of the pocket, if in a seated position. Most often, you'll only do the boning/detailing on the side of the holster that is up against the leg/thigh. The exterior/back side of the holster generally is not detailed. This gives you enough retention to hold the gun in the holster itself, and at the same time, give you a relatively smooth exterior surface and thus limiting the potential printing in that respect.

Now, if you're in an environment where your clothing is pulled tightly across the leg, you're going to have printing no matter what. And if that's the case, you need to find another mode/style of carry.

[Jared]

I wondered about the light weight causing the holster to become weaker. Plus I figured the extra thickness would help in maintaining whatever shape you were trying to adhere to. Having said that.. my guesstimation on pocket holsters is that the boning is very secondary? I say that because I would think a pocket in itself hampers too much. So.. if you have any sort of retention in the holster other than leaning, and twisting.. you have a harder time drawing. Again I don't carry pocket, I carry a full size 9mm Ruger's SR9... Now, retention in that is wonderful, and a belt stops the fighting with it. In a pocket holster though.. for me I would think that I would only want the front and back tight.. to keep the alignment the same all the time, and flared top so that drawing and reholstering is as easy as possible.. My thoughts are that getting the holster out of your pocket might still be a pain.. but I'm sure that is happening in a nonstress enviorment.

[K-Man]

Boning on the pocket holster has essentially the same importance as it does on an IWB/OWB style of holster.

Jared - Since you make holsters, you understand how to achieve the right amount of retention to hold the gun in the holster securely yet allow it to be pulled with ease. The same theory applies to pocket holsters. Of course, everyone's different with respect to how tight they want that. That's just one of the factors to consider.