Jared

Anyone have one of these?

I got a big order if I can find a CZ 2075 Rami. I am in a bind, and would appreciate any help. I am willing to buy, rent, borrow. Turn around will be pretty quick. I appreciate any and all help. Feel free to reach me whatever way is easiest. defensivecarryconcepts@gmail.com 417 372-7130 Thank you for your time, Jared

We are doing this as a side line, when we have time, and when things become both available and in demand. We have been making a point of keeping track of items that get requested, and are working to get enough interest. We currently aren't doing those models, but I will put them on our list. The Only 500 I would have access to is a giant so I don't know how popular those may be. Thank you for your inquiry and I will keep you posted.

I apologize. For some odd reason Leatherworker did not inform me of any comments here. As to adding 1911's not yet. We are trying to find any individuals that are needing holsters, so that we can make them the holster and process the dummy gun. I will try to update as we add guns. mlapaglia I will look into the ffl shipping and return. We do have a dealer who can help us out, if you wouldn't mind sending me a message with what gun you are trying to get a mold for. camano ridge we don't have plans for any derringers at the moment. I don't think there is enough demand to offset the price of the mold. If anyone else is reading this and looking for these molds let me know. If we get enough demand and can find the gun we will do most guns. Thanks

We went through our Dummy guns on this question. I will put it like this, it depends on your tolerances for making holsters. For us we have the gun for the holster we are making. Having said that there is a local holster maker that uses the same gun for different 1911s. Between your guns there are a few differences. Height from the bottom of the rail to the top of the slide was bigger on the smith and Wesson. The over all profile on the rail was bigger on the Springfield. The length of the frame is also slightly longer on the Springfield. In our opinion it will be possible if you are not boning the holster super tight. I will include a picture for reference.

As an update we just finished a couple more molds and we have a few more in the works. Kimber Gold Combat RL II w/ ambi safety, ambi mag release, and C&L - This will work to build holsters for any 5" Kimber with a rail (Kimber Warrior, Desert Warrior, TLE RL II, etc..) Kimber Compact Stainless II with Crimson Trace - This will work to build holsters for any 4" non railed Kimber with Crimson Trace grips and should work for non crimson trace models as well, depending on your holster design. (Pro Carry II, Compact II, etc..) In the works are the PMR-30, Full size SR9, Sig 238 cocked and locked, and Kimber Compact Stainless II with ambi safety.

Coop, We currently don't have any plans on the LCP/ Crimson Trace. Blue Guns has one available with the Crimson Trace in production.(We don't feel that the modifications we add are needed in this gun) If there is enough demand we have an LCP with the Lazermax that we can make a mold from.

As a status update the one gun we couldn't find, that is next on the list is the Keltec PMR 30

Thanks for the offers guys. I believe this order is filled. Thank you Jared

Angelus acrylic. And appreciate the compliments.

A couple 1911 5" rough out holsters that seemed to catch the eye.

A local guitar player has requested a strap for his guitar. Unfortunately this does not fall into our expertise. He is trying to get an old time guitar strap similar to something Merle Haggard would have. He would like buck stitching, his name stamped or tooled across etc.. for contact information send us a pm and we will be glad to pass along his information. thanks for your time Jared

Thanks for all the input guys. I can assure you that as time goes by I am trying to get a better mold of anything that isn't produced for cocked and locked. And as we update our list I will update this one. I appreciate everyone giving input and suggestions. Thank you, Jared

I wanted to add a few things first this picture as an example of the work we do using these holster molds. I would love to have 1911s and as we get the chance we certainly will. Anyone in Southern MO or Northern AR can contact us with guns they would like to have molded. We will work something out. If anyone has any other questions about these feel free to ask. Thanks Jared

It has been our experience that the vast majority of our customers prefer to carry their single action pistols "cocked and locked". It is often very difficult to find dummy guns with the safety in the on position. For this reason we started casting our own holster molds whenever the firearms are available to us. We figured you all might as well benefit from this too. These are not training guns: they are built specifically for blocking holsters. We included a sight track so you don't have to use a dowel rod, etc.. The trigger guard has been filled in so the leather can't depress deeper than the trigger, but the trigger guard itself maintains its original dimensions. On pistols commonly carried in the "cocked and locked" position we cast the mold with the safety on. For pistols that are commonly carried in either position we have made the holster mold accommodate both variants. So far we have molds for the FNS-9, diamond back db9, sig 938, keltec p32, Ruger sr9c, and the bersa bp9cc. More models will be added as we get our hands on them. Prices for the guns are $45.00 each. Magazines will be $20.00 each. Prices include shipping to all lower 48 states. (MO residents will have sales tax of 5.1625%) This stuff is expensive, so we will make holster molds on request. We will only charge when the mold is complete and ready to ship. If there are any questions please pm me.

Obviously a classy looking rig. I'm in perfect agreement on not wanting to make one..

You might check into springfield leather company. Depending on how big of pieces you want..

I guess the reason I ask.. is wouldn't that strap be very visible.. so the carry conceal idea is negated. Sorry.. as I have said I don't carry pocket.. but the strap I thought would be visible.

RWB, as a question, whats your retention like after that fact? The glue not holding would certainly not be what I thought would be a worry. I was thinking that if you sewed then fit with wet leather you could force it. That might be a trial and error ordeal in too tight or not tight enough, but its guranteed to be extremely tight, and for my personal wear thats what I would want. What keeps your leather taut if you haven't caused it to hold, or do you mean that you glue it, and form it? If thats the case then what happens if you glue too far, or not far enough? I know there is a guessing game to it, but if you make two and are keeping the patterns then you should be able to adjust on the following ones. Sorry I had more questions than I originally thought.

I wanted to say thanks to both Ian and twin oaks. As the glue question seemed similar enough.. but to me the idea wasn't just to hold for stitching. To me the stitching was secondary, and meant to hold that extra little bit. I would like to agree with a few who responded to the fact that if the glue isn't good enough to hold your edges will turn out like crap. Maybe not right away but after a few uses. I abuse my things in testing, training, and just over all playing with my pistols. While I don't expect it to look brand new forever, I do expect certain traits to hold up. Edging, because I don't want it catching, and I don't want to start tearing the thing apart, and the abuse I put things through will tear stitching alone. Forming, I need my gun formed well. So that no matter if I lay on the holster with or without the gun in it, that I know my gun will still fit back. Comfort, mostly due to the obvious. I carry constantly, have carried for 40hrs straight before.. while not 100% comfortable after about 10 hrs.. I was in no severe pain. Driving for 10-20 hrs sucks with ccw... just because you aren't moving, standing. Finally finish. Again since I put my guns through everything I want them to hold up. Rolling in rocks will destroy, kydex, fobes.. you name it. My holster has a very small insignificant scratch from 8 hrs abuse.. the fobes is mangled. Having said all of that, I do realize that a lot of people in here have different needs, and what works for some won't work for others.. just do to useage. I was of the opinion that contact cement would be similar so long as it wasn't water soluble. Lobo, my carry conceal holster is shark. By that I don't mean accented with shark, I mean the full gun covering is shark. I've had it for a few years, and through the 8 hr shoot it finally got a scratch. one rock pressed into it hard enough that it looked like you took your fingernail to dry leather. That isn't much, in fact I had to examine it very closely to find it. Thats from being dove on, rolled on, gun in, gun out, the wrong gun in the holster, sweat, soda, and anything else you can imagine. The reason I say this is that shark in and of itself is beyond compare when you look at the abuse it will take and retain not only shape but new looking qualities. The added comment here would be that I would think an accent in a ccw would work the exact way as my full frontal shark. So long as the leather is tougher I would want it. Looks, yeah looks aren't going to matter as it is inside my shirt, and the only time someone will see it is if I want to show it off.. but if it increases the life, and wear of my holster then I'm all for it. Even IWB for fit is going to have a little leather visible, and thus open to wear and tear. Seatbelts.. wow that can scratch the finish of a gun even through a shirt. So if it adds a showmanship quality, and is a proven function I can see where its not only worth doing, but reasonable to want that extra bit. I carry H&K for that very reason.. do I need the special polymer, or the fact that my gun will shoot with a bullet lodged in the barrel, and then still hold a better grouping than a lot of guns from factory.. maybe not.. but its something that gives me added reassurance. I feel like the H&K will go through a lot more than my SR9 but the sr9s profile is just too awesome for a fullsize gun.

Question on the holster, why the loop? I apologize for asking, I'm just curious as to the function, and fit. The pictures are excellent, the holster looks nice.

Saw my first Mitch Rosen holster over the weekend. Having seen it and others, I can agree with K-man. Some people's standards are a long way from others. I'm sure this will upset folks, but I was completely dissatisfied with the "name brand" holster. Its fit would have no where near the retention I would be looking for, leather seemed overly flimsy, and I saw a few flaws. It was a surprise since all I heard from folks was glorious praise and perfection. Seeing the "perfection" up close I realize that a lot of people truly don't know or haven't found a truly good rig. Glad I have one, and value it all the more for seeing the high praised holsters.

My thought on this is number one.. get the glue on as much surface as possible.. but to do that you really need to know how far to go.. and then you might as well stitch first. Second wouldn't it also allow for a tighter fit if you force in after stitching? You can just look at the old holster and figure out where to stitch to be closer? Meaning look at how far out from the guns shape you put the stitching and tighten it up? Not sure how everyone else does it.. but just things that went through my head on the subject.

DId you finish this one up yet troop? Was curious to see the finished products.