Jared

I wanted to add a few things first this picture as an example of the work we do using these holster molds. I would love to have 1911s and as we get the chance we certainly will. Anyone in Southern MO or Northern AR can contact us with guns they would like to have molded. We will work something out. If anyone has any other questions about these feel free to ask. Thanks Jared

It has been our experience that the vast majority of our customers prefer to carry their single action pistols "cocked and locked". It is often very difficult to find dummy guns with the safety in the on position. For this reason we started casting our own holster molds whenever the firearms are available to us. We figured you all might as well benefit from this too. These are not training guns: they are built specifically for blocking holsters. We included a sight track so you don't have to use a dowel rod, etc.. The trigger guard has been filled in so the leather can't depress deeper than the trigger, but the trigger guard itself maintains its original dimensions. On pistols commonly carried in the "cocked and locked" position we cast the mold with the safety on. For pistols that are commonly carried in either position we have made the holster mold accommodate both variants. So far we have molds for the FNS-9, diamond back db9, sig 938, keltec p32, Ruger sr9c, and the bersa bp9cc. More models will be added as we get our hands on them. Prices for the guns are $45.00 each. Magazines will be $20.00 each. Prices include shipping to all lower 48 states. (MO residents will have sales tax of 5.1625%) This stuff is expensive, so we will make holster molds on request. We will only charge when the mold is complete and ready to ship. If there are any questions please pm me.

Obviously a classy looking rig. I'm in perfect agreement on not wanting to make one..

You might check into springfield leather company. Depending on how big of pieces you want..

I guess the reason I ask.. is wouldn't that strap be very visible.. so the carry conceal idea is negated. Sorry.. as I have said I don't carry pocket.. but the strap I thought would be visible.

RWB, as a question, whats your retention like after that fact? The glue not holding would certainly not be what I thought would be a worry. I was thinking that if you sewed then fit with wet leather you could force it. That might be a trial and error ordeal in too tight or not tight enough, but its guranteed to be extremely tight, and for my personal wear thats what I would want. What keeps your leather taut if you haven't caused it to hold, or do you mean that you glue it, and form it? If thats the case then what happens if you glue too far, or not far enough? I know there is a guessing game to it, but if you make two and are keeping the patterns then you should be able to adjust on the following ones. Sorry I had more questions than I originally thought.

I wanted to say thanks to both Ian and twin oaks. As the glue question seemed similar enough.. but to me the idea wasn't just to hold for stitching. To me the stitching was secondary, and meant to hold that extra little bit. I would like to agree with a few who responded to the fact that if the glue isn't good enough to hold your edges will turn out like crap. Maybe not right away but after a few uses. I abuse my things in testing, training, and just over all playing with my pistols. While I don't expect it to look brand new forever, I do expect certain traits to hold up. Edging, because I don't want it catching, and I don't want to start tearing the thing apart, and the abuse I put things through will tear stitching alone. Forming, I need my gun formed well. So that no matter if I lay on the holster with or without the gun in it, that I know my gun will still fit back. Comfort, mostly due to the obvious. I carry constantly, have carried for 40hrs straight before.. while not 100% comfortable after about 10 hrs.. I was in no severe pain. Driving for 10-20 hrs sucks with ccw... just because you aren't moving, standing. Finally finish. Again since I put my guns through everything I want them to hold up. Rolling in rocks will destroy, kydex, fobes.. you name it. My holster has a very small insignificant scratch from 8 hrs abuse.. the fobes is mangled. Having said all of that, I do realize that a lot of people in here have different needs, and what works for some won't work for others.. just do to useage. I was of the opinion that contact cement would be similar so long as it wasn't water soluble. Lobo, my carry conceal holster is shark. By that I don't mean accented with shark, I mean the full gun covering is shark. I've had it for a few years, and through the 8 hr shoot it finally got a scratch. one rock pressed into it hard enough that it looked like you took your fingernail to dry leather. That isn't much, in fact I had to examine it very closely to find it. Thats from being dove on, rolled on, gun in, gun out, the wrong gun in the holster, sweat, soda, and anything else you can imagine. The reason I say this is that shark in and of itself is beyond compare when you look at the abuse it will take and retain not only shape but new looking qualities. The added comment here would be that I would think an accent in a ccw would work the exact way as my full frontal shark. So long as the leather is tougher I would want it. Looks, yeah looks aren't going to matter as it is inside my shirt, and the only time someone will see it is if I want to show it off.. but if it increases the life, and wear of my holster then I'm all for it. Even IWB for fit is going to have a little leather visible, and thus open to wear and tear. Seatbelts.. wow that can scratch the finish of a gun even through a shirt. So if it adds a showmanship quality, and is a proven function I can see where its not only worth doing, but reasonable to want that extra bit. I carry H&K for that very reason.. do I need the special polymer, or the fact that my gun will shoot with a bullet lodged in the barrel, and then still hold a better grouping than a lot of guns from factory.. maybe not.. but its something that gives me added reassurance. I feel like the H&K will go through a lot more than my SR9 but the sr9s profile is just too awesome for a fullsize gun.

Question on the holster, why the loop? I apologize for asking, I'm just curious as to the function, and fit. The pictures are excellent, the holster looks nice.

Saw my first Mitch Rosen holster over the weekend. Having seen it and others, I can agree with K-man. Some people's standards are a long way from others. I'm sure this will upset folks, but I was completely dissatisfied with the "name brand" holster. Its fit would have no where near the retention I would be looking for, leather seemed overly flimsy, and I saw a few flaws. It was a surprise since all I heard from folks was glorious praise and perfection. Seeing the "perfection" up close I realize that a lot of people truly don't know or haven't found a truly good rig. Glad I have one, and value it all the more for seeing the high praised holsters.

My thought on this is number one.. get the glue on as much surface as possible.. but to do that you really need to know how far to go.. and then you might as well stitch first. Second wouldn't it also allow for a tighter fit if you force in after stitching? You can just look at the old holster and figure out where to stitch to be closer? Meaning look at how far out from the guns shape you put the stitching and tighten it up? Not sure how everyone else does it.. but just things that went through my head on the subject.

DId you finish this one up yet troop? Was curious to see the finished products.

How much of the increase is actually the new style and how much is the older concealed?

Now it makes sense.. however, the intention of Boomstick and myself was that we could all go in on duncan's. The downside to getting the aluminum guns are the startup and the having to get 4 molds. So the startup for it for one person is horrible.. but if you get a group to split it.. the help is tremendous.

Wow that was blatant and open theivery.

I wondered about the light weight causing the holster to become weaker. Plus I figured the extra thickness would help in maintaining whatever shape you were trying to adhere to. Having said that.. my guesstimation on pocket holsters is that the boning is very secondary? I say that because I would think a pocket in itself hampers too much. So.. if you have any sort of retention in the holster other than leaning, and twisting.. you have a harder time drawing. Again I don't carry pocket, I carry a full size 9mm Ruger's SR9... Now, retention in that is wonderful, and a belt stops the fighting with it. In a pocket holster though.. for me I would think that I would only want the front and back tight.. to keep the alignment the same all the time, and flared top so that drawing and reholstering is as easy as possible.. My thoughts are that getting the holster out of your pocket might still be a pain.. but I'm sure that is happening in a nonstress enviorment.

I actually have a holster that is fully shaped to the gun. The outer is shark, IWB, and I didn't want it moving, and loved the look of shark. It will not show the imprint of the gun as well, but it does show it well enough to be able to tell exactly what model you have. Having this one, I intend to make another similar just update the feel of it a bit.

Just curious where you went with this>

As a question.. if the pocket holster is small, would the higher weight make it easier to conceal printing? If it is for a pocket holster, I would assume it gets additional friction from sliding, moviing, and rolling around in a pocket all day. Since I haven't ever had a gun to carry in the pocket, or really thought about it much, 4-5 just sounded small. Since I don't carry in the pocket, just thought I would mention my thoughts to see the reasons for the light weight.

Did I miss something? I thought this was a thread looking to find people wanting the same guns so that we could go through someone like duncan's to get what we want? Who said anything about copying or trying to make money? I just knew there were a few guns that were nigh impossible to get molds for.. Maybe I missed something

Yes its elephant.

I'm sorry I never posted any new pictures after the shoot. I took the holster home.. got out a paper towel.. ran some water over it and rubbed off all the damage I thought I had done. There were two tiny scratches.. and my fobes mag holder nearly died.. had abrasive gashes in it.. and really showed some wear. I never thought either of my holsters would hold up so well.. the shark had no marks.. and the sunburst only had the two tiny marks. I'm in agreement that if you have these you shouldn't avoid using them.. but after seeing the wear and the abuse.. it will take a lot to mess up a good leather holster. If rolling in the rocks, and sliding on the rocks, laying directly on the holster while you shrimp your way along doesn't do anything more than a 1/8th inch minor scratch.. its the best thing I've ever done for my training.

I'm honestly surprised at the lack of interest. I figured everyone had at least one gun they couldn't find or get ahold of.

Just a thought... but if you are wanting more pressure.. you might try securing the top and using a floor jack to get 1-3 tons of pressure and that would be considerably cheaper than buying a press. I come from metal working (Boilermaker) and cheap easy, and whatever is handy is usually somewhere in the description of the tools I will use.