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Stamping
Geometric tools, basketweave, 3D stamps and alphabet and number sets. Learn to make patterns to suit your style.
529 topics in this forum
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I do a lot of this type border around inlays or to break up a large area of basket stamoping on round things like rope bags and rope cans. I put in the border I use on a lot of these too. I scribe my borders inside and out, and then stamp in the rope stamp impressions. I normally start on the outside for wider borders or tighter arcs. I think these cans have a 15" circle or so. I used that pattern to make this arc. I line up the first row of impressions with the legs just barely overlapping, They will overlap more as we work in. If you start on the inside of the arc, Murphy's law says your impressions will be too wide and not meet when you get to the outer row. Mu…
Last reply by ryankim3612, -
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Here is another way I lay out angled baskets. Actually this is the way I do most of them now, especially for strap work. It involves no templates, and the angles may be just a bit different for the same stamp than my template method. First off, I make a light horizontal impression to establish a stamp width mark in the corner. I exxagerated the impression a bit for illustration purposes. I set one leg on this mark, and the other end of the same leg on the base line. This is my first impression. I then use that angle, setting the next impression against the base line and lining up the leg with the previous impression. I stamp an entire horizontal row. I then line up th…
Last reply by OLDNSLOW, -
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First of three little tutorials on how I lay out basket stamping. This first one is using a template to establish the angle. To make a template, I take a piece of firm scrap and lay out a base line. I stamp one row, then a row above leaving off one impression until I have a triangle. I marked the outline on the scrap of how I cut that triangle. Depending on your stamp and your personal amount of overlap, that exact angle can be different even with the same stamp. Next I took some rectangular scrap, cut in a border line and lightly beveled the inside cut. I took my template, layed the flat side on the cut line, and scribed the angle line in. Next step was stamping alt…
Last reply by bruce johnson, -
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I have a landscape image that I am attempting to carve into leather. There are mountains in the rear, and a ranch name in the foreground which is the focus of the scene. But the predominant feature to fill in the space is to be the sagebrush that so frequently covers open land in western Wyoming. I am looking for a stamp that can help make this a reality. Any ideas out there?? PLEASE and thank you!
Last reply by chuck123wapati, -
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Hey all, Well the title kinda says it all: here and there while I’m actively stamping, a thin milky liquid will rise to the surface. Yes, water rising probably means that I’m casing too much, but that’s not the question. I had thought that perhaps I hadn’t rinsed the soap off thoroughly from cleaning the leather before working it, but then I noticed it even when I hadn’t cleaned it first. Wish I had a pic to show, but it’s not something I think about when it happens, and I have yet to find rhyme or rhythm to encourage it. Thanks for any insight. —AZR
Last reply by ThisIsMyFirstRodeo, -
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I just designed a logo so I can start stamping my work. I have a line in the logo that is 2.8 pt, so before I go any further I just want to make sure this will be visible/clear when stamped. I'm new to stamping so any help is appreciated! Thank you!
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Last reply by Northmount, -
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Tips for recording hot stamping, welcome to add
Last reply by Jinglin, -
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Ughhhh. I had the temp up too dang high and didn't catch it. How do I clean this?
Last reply by SUP, -
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Foil Stamping Temperature Testing: Finding the Perfect Temperature To explore how temperature affects foil stamping results, I tested the hot foil machine using Gold Foil on 1mm thick vegetable-tanned leather at three temperatures: 110°C, 120°C, and 130°C. Here’s what I found: 110°C: The foil stamp was clear and sharp with clean, crisp edges, but the overall effect looked flat, lacking gloss and depth. 120°C: Depth and gloss improved significantly; the design appeared vivid with relatively clear edges, although slight edge blurring was visible under close inspection. 130°C: The foil was thick and rich, but edge…
Last reply by Jinglin, -
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hello, i have some cheap chrome tanned leather that i would like to turn into some leather moneybags but i would like to buy a money sign stamp and stamp and emboss the leather on the front of the bag so i searched on youtube and found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NeNF0oWncY&t=78s and he says that you want "vegetable tanned leather" but i know that the leather i have is cheap garbage chrome tanned leather but ye doesn't say what i should do in that situation just wanted to ask here if i can successfully stamp cheap chrome tanned leather and what the best way to do that is, thank you
Last reply by fredk,
