Flat Back Pancake

[chiefjason]

So, after being in some discussions about flat back pancakes I decided to give it a try. It took some thought to figure out the process I wanted to use. I initially started with one for my wife's Kahr CW 9. In the middle of making it I remembered I wanted it to have snaps. Well, that's where my problems started. This holster is pretty much a mess. I'm simply not going to show the back, it's bad and I know where and why. I'm going to let my wife try it out and I'll be replacing it pretty quick.

My step brother has a buddy that is a detective in a local PD. He called me wanting a pancake for his LCR. We kicked around a few ideas. First it was a thumb break. But the LCR really does not lend itself to a thumb break. So we went with a standard pancake. And it gave me a chance at another flat back. Now the revolver was a bit tougher to work with than a semi. But I am pretty happy with the result. My biggest concern is the trigger guard area. I want to see what the real gun looks like in there. I thought I gave it more coverage than that. I have an LC9 in process now too.

Both holsters are 8-9 oz Hermann Oak. I bought some of the shoulders that were on sale at Springfield and I have been very happy with them. I got to use my new groovers, an adjustable and a freehand. I also got to use my awl some more. I have to say, the right tools really speed up the process. Hand stitched at 5 spi. Vinegroon black with black atom wax and mop and glow finish.

[FybrOptx]

I do not care what you say about the first holster; I think it looks great. I am really interested in how you worked the snaps (I am assuming that the snaps let you remove the holster w/o removing the belt) because I wanted to do a design similar to that.

[chiefjason]

Thanks. The front looks good, at least from that distance. But winging it is really not a good plan with leather. I got into working it and remembered I wanted snaps and tried to work them in. Not a good idea.

What I can tell you is this. The belt loops need to be a bit longer than you usually want them. And you will need more room on the bottom than I have allowed for. This holster is likely not even usable in it's current state. Although it will snap together fine. I did not leave enough room to compensate for fitting over the belt. At this point I can't get one of the snaps to fasten over the belt. Lesson learned. Plan it out or waste leather. And longer loops and more room for the snaps.

To the technique. The outside of the loop is designed to pass behind the belt. So my cuts on the front are from the bottom of the loop straight to the outside. On the back my cuts are from the other side of the loop and towards the bottom. The best plan would be to work all this out before glueing; make your cuts and not glue the area you want to place the snaps in. Like I said, more planning would have helped. But this was kind of a demo holster anyway. First flat back and first try at snaps. So I'll chalk it up as practice.

Here's a pic of the snaps that might make this more clear.

[FybrOptx]

Wow! That is exactly what I needed! I can take that and run with it. Thanks a heap! I have a question tho: would the single layer of leather where the snaps are reduce strength of the loop? If so, could the belt loop area have an extra layer sewn in to reinforce it? or would that make it too bulky and make the snaps not fit?

[chiefjason]

Good question, but with 8-9 oz leather I think it would be fine. I make single layer hybrids out of 8-9 and 9-10 oz and have not had a loop fail yet. Sewing another layer would be pretty time consuming and bulky I would think.

[FybrOptx]

I was thinking more of a layer of something other than leather as a reinforcement, like a synthetic (perhaps nylon) or something to that effect... That would minimize the added bulk if making it negligible altogether. I do see your point on the 8-9 oz leather tho; that is what I am currently using. Thank you again for posting the pics!

[chiefjason]

Finished up another on for an LC9. This one is going to the brother of the guy that bought the LCR.

Thoughts and comments are always appreciated.

[Dfarm]

are you wet forming the leather before or after you sew the front and back togeather? if you are sewing first, how do you judge how much bigger the front half needs to be ? I love this style of holster, but cant make sewing the halves togeather first like on a normal pancake work in my head. lol

thanks for any tips you could pass along.

[Dwight]

When I make a pancake, . . . they are almost always flat backed, . . . I personally find the others uncomfortable on my bony frame.

I use a vacuum forming technique, . . . the back piece of leather is dry, . . . I wet the front.

The holster has the back completely cut out and formed other than the slots. The front is intentionally left a little long and wide,

The leading edge of the holster having the front sight, etc. is all sewn, edged, beveled, etc. at this point.

Again, . . . I only wet that front piece, . . . lay the weapon in it's place, . . . put it in my vacuum machine, . . . and watch the magic.

Once it is vacuum formed, . . . I gently pull out the molding firearm, . . . and hang the leather up to dry.

When dry, . . . put the two pieces together with the weapon inside, . . . mark, cut, glue, edge, bevel, sew and finish.

I could probably save some time by developing an exact pattern for each weapon I do, . . . but honestly, . . . so few of them are the exact same weapon, . . . it is easier for me to do my process.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited December 28, 2012 by Dwight

[Dfarm]

ok, so you leave the trigger side open until its moulded. thanks for the tip!