At Wit's End... Finding A Tacsew T111-155 Manual

[QDaddy]

I recently purchased a Tacsew T111-155 walking foot second-hand. It was originally purchased by a local upholstery shop in 2004 and only saw occasional use and then stuck in storage for almost 3 years after their business collapsed. Not a bad deal for $100.

The machine seems to work flawlessly, but being the geek I am... I need a user's and/or service manual. I have scoured the internets and I've had no luck. If anyone could give me a bit of direction (or even pm me for a pdf), I would be in your debt. I've tried to contact Tacony, but those people are useless. I tried to email- it was ignored... I tried to call and the phone monkey only wanted to direct me to the local distributor who in turn told me to get lost. Some folks just don't get customer service... what's to say in the future I don't need a good zig-zag or double needle machine?

I am hoping some kind soul will take pity on my ignorance and fill this empty vessel.

Alan Horvath... you rock!

Q

[busted]

I recently purchased a Tacsew T111-155 walking foot second-hand. It was originally purchased by a local upholstery shop in 2004 and only saw occasional use and then stuck in storage for almost 3 years after their business collapsed. Not a bad deal for $100.

The machine seems to work flawlessly, but being the geek I am... I need a user's and/or service manual. I have scoured the internets and I've had no luck. If anyone could give me a bit of direction (or even pm me for a pdf), I would be in your debt. I've tried to contact Tacony, but those people are useless. I tried to email- it was ignored... I tried to call and the phone monkey only wanted to direct me to the local distributor who in turn told me to get lost. Some folks just don't get customer service... what's to say in the future I don't need a good zig-zag or double needle machine?

I am hoping some kind soul will take pity on my ignorance and fill this empty vessel.

Alan Horvath... you rock!

Q

The Singer 111w155 is almost the same machine. This is a link to the manual.

http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/111W152_153_154_155.pdf

[Buddy NY]

I own the same machine

i can dig out the manual for you

it"ll take a few days & surprisingly the manual is petty detailed & well written

I owned the Singer the manuals are similar

i'd have to scan it & send a PDF

[QDaddy]

I own the same machine

i can dig out the manual for you

it"ll take a few days & surprisingly the manual is petty detailed & well written

I owned the Singer the manuals are similar

i'd have to scan it & send a PDF

Oh, wow. That would be great. I've got the Singer manual, but the scan is quite lacking. Tell ya what,

maybe I can help you out in some way. I am quite the pdf collector and I have some real obscure stuff...

I'm sure there's something you'd be interested in. PM me when you're ready and we'll work something out.

Q

[Wizcrafts]

Once you get a copy of the manual you will find that you have a pretty decent sewing machine. You can get all kinds of Singer 111 pressor feet and attachments for it. It will take series 135x16 and 135x17 industrial needles, up to #25. It should be able to sew 3/8" of leather, if you apply sufficient top pressure. Look to see if there is a second top pressure screw for the inside pressor foot and adjust it as necessary. I sometimes screw the inner foot tension spring all the way down, then back off the outside foot pressure, to reduce marking tracks on the leather.

[QDaddy]

Once you get a copy of the manual you will find that you have a pretty decent sewing machine. You can get all kinds of Singer 111 pressor feet and attachments for it. It will take series 135x16 and 135x17 industrial needles, up to #25. It should be able to sew 3/8" of leather, if you apply sufficient top pressure. Look to see if there is a second top pressure screw for the inside pressor foot and adjust it as necessary. I sometimes screw the inner foot tension spring all the way down, then back off the outside foot pressure, to reduce marking tracks on the leather.

I think I am gonna like it here.

<grins>

[Cobra Steve]

I think I am gonna like it here.

<grins>

Hi QDaddy, if all else fails, contact Tacony direct at 1-636-349-300. The Tac in Tacsew is from Tacony. Thanks, Steve

[QDaddy]

Hi QDaddy, if all else fails, contact Tacony direct at 1-636-349-300. The Tac in Tacsew is from Tacony. Thanks, Steve

I tried, but they were FAR from helpful. I got referred to a distributor and they blew me off.

[shovelhead]

I tried, but they were FAR from helpful. I got referred to a distributor and they blew me off.

daddy sailrite sells this machine.you should be able to get what you need from them

regards shovelhead

[Buddy NY]

Hey Q

I found the manual

i just have to scan it or photo copy it

your in TN right?. IM in NC

if i cant scan i

ill make you a copy & send it to you... you can send me your address off line if you like . ill let you know tommorrow

[QDaddy]

Hey Q

I found the manual

i just have to scan it or photo copy it

your in TN right?. IM in NC

if i cant scan i

ill make you a copy & send it to you... you can send me your address off line if you like . ill let you know tommorrow

HUGE props to Buddy NY for coming through with a manual scan! He is a man of his word and everyone can bank on anything he says.

Buddy NY, I owe ya a beer (or a little Tennessee peach moonshine if you're so inclined <grins>).

Q

[TomG]

Once you get a copy of the manual you will find that you have a pretty decent sewing machine. You can get all kinds of Singer 111 pressor feet and attachments for it. It will take series 135x16 and 135x17 industrial needles, up to #25. It should be able to sew 3/8" of leather, if you apply sufficient top pressure. Look to see if there is a second top pressure screw for the inside pressor foot and adjust it as necessary. I sometimes screw the inner foot tension spring all the way down, then back off the outside foot pressure, to reduce marking tracks on the leather.

I have this machine also and am just starting to try and use it for leather.

I picked up a small test bundle of 207 thread and some 135x17, size 24 needles. I don't know how to tell if they are Leather needles or not. labeled SY3355 and DPx17

I loaded some of the thread onto a bobbin, put it in, and tried a number if upper tensios but got shaft lockouts, jams, and all sorts of issues.

Am I trying to use too large a thread with this machine, or did I use too large a needle? I was trying to sew through a piece of slightly under 1/4" veg-tan with a thin piece of upholstery leather glued to the back.

Thanks

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

I have this machine also and am just starting to try and use it for leather.

I picked up a small test bundle of 207 thread and some 135x17, size 24 needles. I don't know how to tell if they are Leather needles or not. labeled SY3355 and DPx17

I loaded some of the thread onto a bobbin, put it in, and tried a number if upper tensios but got shaft lockouts, jams, and all sorts of issues.

Am I trying to use too large a thread with this machine, or did I use too large a needle? I was trying to sew through a piece of slightly under 1/4" veg-tan with a thin piece of upholstery leather glued to the back.

Thanks

Tom

DPx17 is ball point, not leather point, which would be 135x16.

A number 24 needle is fine for #207 thread, but a #23 leather point (135x16) will probably work as well, but with less stress on the machine. One quarter inch of veg-tan is not too much for a typical walking foot machine. Mine sews over 3/8".

Make sure that the top thread loops around and goes through all of the holes in the top thread feed block, located just to the right side of the upper tension disks. The thread should feed out of the bottom of the guide block holes. Then, pull it all the way into the disks from the left and out on the right. Next, thread it around the bottom of the check spring assembly and under the check spring. The thread should be under a bit of tension from the moving check spring when you pull up on it and should not pop out of the upper tension disks.

From the check spring, feed the thread up to the eye in the take-up lever, feed it through from right to left, then down, through all the guides, to the needle bar. Feed the thread through the last guide on the needle bar, then thread it through the needle's eye, from left to right. The needle must be aligned with the eye facing left to right. The indent above the eye should be on the right and the slot on the needle's shaft faces the left side.

Next, take the bobbin out of its shuttle. tighten the thread on the bobbin, then insert it so it feeds against the rotation of the machine. This means that the bobbin goes in with the thread feeding over the top of the bobbin, to the slot in the case, then backwards in the slot, till it can be pulled out of the hole under the bobbin tension spring. Make sure the thread goes under the bobbin spring and is under some pressure, and not free flowing. You'll need to balance the top pressure to pull the bobbin thread up into the leather. Pull out about 6 inches of bobbin thread and snap the bobbin firmly into the shuttle.

Now, it's time to pay attention to the pressure on the inside and outside pressor feet. Some walking foot machines have a separate screw above each pressor foot bar. As was mentioned earlier, tighten down the inside foot pressure screw as far down as it will go. It is important to have enough pressure on the inside foot to prevent the material from lifting as the needle begins its ascent. Insufficient inside foot pressure results in skipped stitches and torn threads.

Set the outside foot pressure so that the leather does not move by itself until it lifts as the needle, inner foot and feed dog pull it back.

There are other things that can go out of alignment on walking foot machines, but they are too complicated to list here.This includes the timing of the bobbin pickup point and the timing and lift of the alternating feet.

Edited August 28, 2010 by Wizcrafts

[CowboyBob]

Try #138 thread it'll work alot better & make sure you pull the thread down in between the tension discs & when it loops & jams up underneath either your top tension is threaded wrong or the top tension is too loose.

Also don't forget to oil the hook it you notice the inside basket part doesn't spin so oil the slot it rides in .

Bob

[busted]

I have this machine also and am just starting to try and use it for leather.

I picked up a small test bundle of 207 thread and some 135x17, size 24 needles. I don't know how to tell if they are Leather needles or not. labeled SY3355 and DPx17

I loaded some of the thread onto a bobbin, put it in, and tried a number if upper tensios but got shaft lockouts, jams, and all sorts of issues.

Am I trying to use too large a thread with this machine, or did I use too large a needle? I was trying to sew through a piece of slightly under 1/4" veg-tan with a thin piece of upholstery leather glued to the back.

Thanks

Tom

Hi Tom, this machine will not sew with 207 thread in the bobbin. The largest thread in the bobbin is 92. You should

be able to sew 138 on top. The 138 will not work in the bobbin either. The needle has to have the diamond point

or knife point in order to sew the leather with ease. Your machine will sew 3/8 inch material too. The link below should

help a bunch.

.

http://www.universalsewing.com/images/catalogs/grozbeck/english/gbsew15.pdf

[TomG]

Thanks for the in-depth info. It was greatly appreciated and helped a bunch.

I went over the SE Sewing Saturday and picked up some #23 leather needles, a few feet of 138 thead and tried again. SUCCESS!!!

Plus - I found out I had been trying to use 277 thread and not 207. I loaded the 277 back into bobbin and top and with the #23 leather needles, I was able to actually sew the 1/4+" leather. The machine definately struggled, but I think a smaller pulley on the motor will likely fix that....and maybe going back to the #24 needle once I do the pulley conversion.

Is the pulley anything special?

Thanks for all the help.

Tom

DPx17 is ball point, not leather point, which would be 135x16.

A number 24 needle is fine for #207 thread, but a #23 leather point (135x16) will probably work as well, but with less stress on the machine. One quarter inch of veg-tan is not too much for a typical walking foot machine. Mine sews over 3/8".

Make sure that the top thread loops around and goes through all of the holes in the top thread feed block, located just to the right side of the upper tension disks. The thread should feed out of the bottom of the guide block holes. Then, pull it all the way into the disks from the left and out on the right. Next, thread it around the bottom of the check spring assembly and under the check spring. The thread should be under a bit of tension from the moving check spring when you pull up on it and should not pop out of the upper tension disks.

From the check spring, feed the thread up to the eye in the take-up lever, feed it through from right to left, then down, through all the guides, to the needle bar. Feed the thread through the last guide on the needle bar, then thread it through the needle's eye, from left to right. The needle must be aligned with the eye facing left to right. The indent above the eye should be on the right and the slot on the needle's shaft faces the left side.

Next, take the bobbin out of its shuttle. tighten the thread on the bobbin, then insert it so it feeds against the rotation of the machine. This means that the bobbin goes in with the thread feeding over the top of the bobbin, to the slot in the case, then backwards in the slot, till it can be pulled out of the hole under the bobbin tension spring. Make sure the thread goes under the bobbin spring and is under some pressure, and not free flowing. You'll need to balance the top pressure to pull the bobbin thread up into the leather. Pull out about 6 inches of bobbin thread and snap the bobbin firmly into the shuttle.

Now, it's time to pay attention to the pressure on the inside and outside pressor feet. Some walking foot machines have a separate screw above each pressor foot bar. As was mentioned earlier, tighten down the inside foot pressure screw as far down as it will go. It is important to have enough pressure on the inside foot to prevent the material from lifting as the needle begins its ascent. Insufficient inside foot pressure results in skipped stitches and torn threads.

Set the outside foot pressure so that the leather does not move by itself until it lifts as the needle, inner foot and feed dog pull it back.

There are other things that can go out of alignment on walking foot machines, but they are too complicated to list here.This includes the timing of the bobbin pickup point and the timing and lift of the alternating feet.

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks for the in-depth info. It was greatly appreciated and helped a bunch.

I went over the SE Sewing Saturday and picked up some #23 leather needles, a few feet of 138 thead and tried again. SUCCESS!!!

Plus - I found out I had been trying to use 277 thread and not 207. I loaded the 277 back into bobbin and top and with the #23 leather needles, I was able to actually sew the 1/4+" leather. The machine definately struggled, but I think a smaller pulley on the motor will likely fix that....and maybe going back to the #24 needle once I do the pulley conversion.

Is the pulley anything special?

Thanks for all the help.

Tom

You are going to wear out your machine by sewing with #277 thread. At least step down to #207 on top and #138 in the bobbin. Make sure you use leather point needles. Note, that the larger the needle size, the harder it is to penetrate the leather and pull the bottom thread up into the lockstitch.

Use the smallest motor pulley you can buy. You'll also need to get a shorter belt to keep the motor adjustment within its available thread range. I changed from a 3" pulley to a 2" pulley and had to go down 1" in belt length. It did improve punching power and slow speed operability. Better yet, buy a gear reduction 300 Watt, SewPro 500GR servo motor from Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (and a 2" shorter belt). You will have all kinds of punching power at very slow and controllable speeds. It uses no electricity until you press on the foot pedal and sew.

My Opinion Follows

There are specially designed leather stitchers available from member dealers on this forum. These machines will handle #346 thread, top and bottom, and even #415 for some models. They use a much larger needle system than the Singer 111 and its clones, like Tacsew. All shafts, gears and bearings are much thicker. The take-up levers, rods and tensioners are beefed up and the bobbins hold a huge amount of thick thread and use an oscillating shuttle system with lots of clearance, that allows you to sew with very heavy thread.

[TomG]

Thanks again for the info. I definately don't want to burn the machine up. We mainly have used it in our embroidery business for sewing up things like chair backs, heavy canvas items that we have to open up to embroider.

Being new at this, I am trying to explore our options. I had picked up the #277 by mistake. With the way the machine handled it, I would never try to sew an actual job with it. Just because it worked does not mean that it worked well. <g>...

If we ever get to the point that we are sewing more than the occasional piece, I'll certainly buy a dedicated machine. I'm big on "the right tool for the right job".

Later,

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

Thanks again for the info. I definately don't want to burn the machine up. We mainly have used it in our embroidery business for sewing up things like chair backs, heavy canvas items that we have to open up to embroider.

Being new at this, I am trying to explore our options. I had picked up the #277 by mistake. With the way the machine handled it, I would never try to sew an actual job with it. Just because it worked does not mean that it worked well. <g>...

If we ever get to the point that we are sewing more than the occasional piece, I'll certainly buy a dedicated machine. I'm big on "the right tool for the right job".

Later,

Tom

Be sure to check back on this forum, if and when you decide you need a true leather sewing machine. We will help you pick the best machine for the jobs awaiting it.

Folks. As Tom noted, just because a machine can sew with #277 thread does not mean it can do so efficiently, or repeatedly. Furthermore, the pounding a machine takes when penetrating thick or dense leather will cause early wear and problems for upholstery grade machines. Those machines were designed with parts suitable for sewing heavy cloth, or Naugahyde, with #69 up to #138 nylon thread. Most piped jobs never exceed 4 layers of material, which is about 1/8" thickness. Those materials offer little resistance to the needle and thread and are very easy to feed (on a walking foot machine). They are geared up, for speed, because speed translates into money in that business. A man with a walking foot machine, sewing a 20 foot nylon boat cover, does not want to putt putt along at 300 SPM. On the other hand, a leather crafter sewing a holster must sew very slowly (300 - 450 SPM max), to avoid burning the leather and melting the thread. I've seen needles turn red hot while sewing fast (before I knew better) and smoke coming off of the leather.

[QDaddy]

I would suggest you talk to sewmun (Bob Kovar) for any of the parts you might need. He really came through for me trying to figure out why my stupid bobbin case wouldn't fit and was more than helpful in getting me the stuff I needed. When I can swing it, I'll be getting a used leather machine from him too.

[Charlie K]

I just got a tecsew t111-155 machine with no manual or DVD. I called Tacony thay were no help at all then i realized that the Sailrite111 is the same machine i called them and for like $20.00 bucks thay will send one rite out. there # is 1-800-348-2769 Charile K

[GabD05]

Hi All,

Hopefully wondering if anyone has a scanned manual for the Tacsew T111-155 they could send my way? Thanks!

[CowboyBob]

Save your $$ for needles & thread,here's a manual for the auto-lube machine.

http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/P1206RB.pdf

[GabD05]

Thank you so much Bob - greatly appreciated!!