Singer 111W155 Timing/thread Issues

[brmax]

If i can bring this up without changing focus for a moment, i have a simular 212G double needle but not a walker, i wish. But its new to me and totaly a new adventure, The question is hook timing sometimes involves moving the gear below along with the saddle. I see in my manual and it looks to be Singer, the gap spec of .008 between saddle face and gear. Is this critical and how ? also if it is changed for a quieter operation is that cool. Its ran on motor today but not sewed, I purchased it at auction and going through it as a "starting point" I re motored it with a servo. Im at this point and any help from you all would be great. thanks and sorry for the interuption

Skip it i figured it out, its not rocket science.

[gottaknow]

Good thing. My degree is in geology.

Regards, Eric

[brmax]

You made it, thanks Eric I should have started a new topic. Not a big deal i understand and will post differently next time.

Glad you enjoy your trade, the help here you offer is always appreciated.

sharp as a tac there, have a good day

[gottaknow]

You made it, thanks Eric I should have started a new topic. Not a big deal i understand and will post differently next time.

Glad you enjoy your trade, the help here you offer is always appreciated.

sharp as a tac there, have a good day

No worries. Not sure how I missed your post. We've gotten quite busy at the factory and I have less time online but I usually check in once a day. The 212 is a workhorse, I have several of them that we still use.

Regards, Eric

[dmar836]

So still working better. It still will drop the top thread down around the hook body if tension is relaxed too much when the needle is on the way up. Any way to add tension to the top thread(as it's traveling around the hook)? It is really only as I'm under hand power and allow it to backlash a bit - the needle might actually move less than 1/16". I just retarded the timing a bit and that seems to have helped the backlash issue when the needle is close to the material. I also increased the take up spring tension but I still need the thread to stay on the hook in that first 90 degrees or so if the hook is allowed to backlash just a tad. As is, it will relax on the hook and fall down around the notch in the hook body and I end up with an extra loop of top thread. It then either binds and breaks the thread or lays this extra loop in with the bottom thread.

I'm considering a 1541S as I foresee that I'm about to take on more jobs but I hate to retire this great machine.

Dave

[gottaknow]

Hi Dave. From what you describe, your top and bottom shaft timing may still be a tad off. Perhaps one tooth. Machines will sew being one tooth off, they'll just be a little quirky. If you get bored, move the belt one tooth, retime the hook and try it. It's also possible that there's some wear in your take up arm or more likely it's bent. It's really easy to bend one. If it is, I suspect it's bent upward a touch. That would give you just a tiny bit too much thread during the cycle. Less than one tooth of shaft timing. Food for thought.

Regard, Eric

[dmar836]

Hmmm. Great ideas. I'll give those a shot! Thanks.

Dave

[bill2750]

I want to begin with a huge thank you to all that have posted here, and specifically Eric. I purchased a used 111W103 and got a great deal on it because it was not working and the owner did not know how to fix it. Honestly I didn't either but I thought I could figure it out with all the post's on this website. Anyway, my story played out exactly like this thread. As I tried to sew just manually turning the machine over, the thread would catch under the needle plate and bind up breaking the thread. So I started by checking the timing and sure enough the set screws on the lower belt gear were not like Erics picture posted early in this thread, so I fixed that. Next I moved the take up lever to the top position and the timing marks did not line up, so I slipped off the belt and keeping the take up lever in the top position, aligned the timing marks (about three teeth off). I threaded the machine and tried turning it over by hand and everything worked! It's sewing and I am thrilled. I have never owned or sewed a stitch with an industrial machine before. I went through and oiled her up. I know I still need to check the needle position and fine tune some things but it's working!

THANK YOU ERIC

I am attaching a picture and have a couple questions.

What is the green arrow pointing to? I don't have a manual. Also, if you follow the thread path around the tension plates and under the wire spring, there is a pointed metal tab (look through the hole in the silver disc at the point of the red arrow) that the thread is supposed to snap in behind as you go clockwise around the silver disc. I can't get the thread to go behind the tab by pulling the thread tight, it breaks the thread. So I thread it in behind and then under the wire spring and finish the normal path the the needle. Loosening the knurled knob doesn't help and changing the position of the silver disc doesn't help. There is a black set screw at the 12 o'clock position that doesn't seem to make a difference either. So I am flying blind at this point.

Edited January 24, 2015 by bill2750

[Constabulary]

I don´t know what this thing is but usually the adjustment screw for the presser foot is located there. Or take a picture from the to so we can see it better. This is how it looks at my 111G156

Because of the small tab that breaks your thread - try to push it back a tiny bit with a small screwdriver or so. If you can`t get it fixed I´d replace the entire tension unit. A new one is about $10. It´s held by just 2 small screws but you probably have to adjust the unit a bit. Or just take the parts from it you need to fix your old tension unit and you have some spare parts for the future. Thats the big advantage oft the old 111 series machines - you can get parts everywhere and even for a good price.

Edited January 24, 2015 by Constabulary

[pcox]

That is a light bracket. There was a ball socket that clamped on it so you could adjust a sewing light.