Building a new Work Bench - Suggested Dimensions

[ABC3]

I am starting to build a new work bench for general leather work with a shelf on the bottom to store material. Not making saddles or anything large but I have a couple of questions:

#1 Size (L&W) I have the room but don't want to go overboard. Would you make the legs out of 2x4" or 4x6".

#2 Height. I have a lower back problem so I don't want to make it too low so I am bending as I work/play.

#3 What have you found to be the best material for the top (3/4" plywood) or are there other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help.

[barra]

I think the size is going to depend on what you usually make. Make the length large enough so that leather does not drape over the edge of the bench as this can marr.

I to have the odd back problem and when it comes to my benches my rule of thumb is to have the height so that when I am using a tool there is no bending. Well just enough of a bend so that you put some effort into the tool. When making a bench. I grab a common tool I use, like a tickler or creaser, stand up straight and then hold the tool so the fore arm is parallel to the ground. The bench height is ever so slightly lower than this.

As for width. I have all my common tools that I use all the time racked on a back board. The width of the bench is made so that I can easily reach tools without over extending.

I like wooden (pine) topped benches. This is mainly because it is easy to come by for me. Lot's of folk like the polyethylene (cutting board) bench tops.

Barra

Edited January 15, 2009 by barra

[Jordan]

I would use 4x4's for the legs, plenty of bracing, as large as you can deal with, higher than normal to minimize bending over, real good overhead lights. an a double layer of at least 1/2 " for the top so you can flip them when they get messed up, essentially 4 bench tops. I posted a pdf bench plan awhile back that seemed pretty easy to build and is strong enough for woodworking. Got it from Fine Woodworking web site. But a bench is really all about personal preference and individual work habits.

[Go2Tex]

My benches are all about 36" high. Width varies. I have one that is 4x8 for layout and cutting with poly cutting board on the working half. Then I have one that is 28" wide and 10 ft long, actually a couple of 5 footers put together against one wall. All 2x4 construction. If you want stronger legs, glue and screw 2 2x4s together to make a 90 degree angle. It looks good and you can really brace them tightly at the top and bottom just like a kitchen table.

I'm still looking for a good surface for my benches that is solid as a rock for tooling and punching. I get more bounce that I'd like. I layed 2x4s on the flat, side by side across the top and then put 3/4" particle board on top to make it smooth. Still not solid enough.

[gtwister09]

Workbenches have been discussed in some other threads. Workbench Link.

I have several design ideas and such in my PDFs in that thread. From an ergonomic standpoint you shouldn't make a bench wider than your arm's length unless it is a specialty table for two users or some other special use like a layout table that you walk around but that should not be much wider than twice your arms length.

Height is determined by the individual. A good starting point for a sitting workstation is to set your chairs height (if adjustable) and then measure to the bottom of your elbow. This is the starting point for the top of the workstation. Likewise if you have a sit/stand workstation you would use your standing position for this elbow measurement. Then you would use an adjustable chair with a ring like a draftsman's chair so that your feet do not dangle and cut off your blood flow to your feet. Remember to add a foot rail to rest your foot for standing and account for the height of a rubber mat if you are using one. They help when you stand on concrete for an extended period of time. Grab the tools that you are going to be using and perform a mockup to verify your height before you start.

If tables are made from particle board they will bounce due to the structure of particle board. A lack of bracing will make it bouce even more. Just ask any roofing contractor what happens when they start shingling (driving nails by hand) on either OSB or particle board.

For a tooling bench I used a sandwich of the following. (You can see them in the PDF)

The bottom was 3/4" oak plywood (more for aesthetic appearance)

2X4's turned on edge and glued together.

1/4" standoffs with bedding material (silicone)

3/4" Granite top

This makes for a VERY solid tooling surface that also allows you to place a cutting board on and punch large holes or cut strap end.

I created a rolled edge around the sandwich so that tools could not roll off of the tooling surface.

Use the height measurement for your layout table and cutting tables also.

Regards,

Ben

[Go2Tex]

Thanks Ben for a second look at the beautiful tooling cabinet bench. I'm surprised you don't get some bounce off those casters and rubber mat, but apparently not. That cabinet is so pretty I bet Mamma lets you leave it in the living room, eh?

Yeah, it's not the particle board itself that's bouncy, I don't think. It's a solid mass. It's the structure under it. The 2x4s are yellow pine and warpy as heck, so it's not a good, flat surface to begin with. I shoulda known better......

Edited January 16, 2009 by Go2Tex

[ABC3]

Thanks everyone for your input...I'll get started. I bet the 3/4" Granite top cost a pretty penny.

[gtwister09]

Brent....

I was wrongly thinking of something along the lines of the folding tables with the particle board tops. I have had to use them at other places when helping kids learn.

"I'm surprised you don't get some bounce off those casters and rubber mat, but apparently not." ... No bounce! The casters are hard rubber with a 2500 pound capacity each. Not much give in them. When the bench was in the garage the rubber mat was on one side of the bench and not under the bench/casters.

" That cabinet is so pretty I bet Mamma lets you leave it in the living room, eh?" Don't laugh!!!! Stranger things have happened. One of the concessions to wait in getting a place with a real shop was the moving of the bench. See Below for location.

Yes. That's the front living room.

Regards,

Ben

P.S. Tom...The granite was given to me when they were removing it from a building. If you look closely there is a small 1/2" square cutout in one corner. No one would buy the piece. So the whole bench revolved around the size of the granite top. The cabinet doors, 2X4's and casters were some wreckouts. The oak molding and peg board were some cutoffs. The only thing purchased was the 3/4" Oak plywood, hinges and knobs.

[rdb]

A bench is a very personal thing. Some want rugged, never move. Some want small to fit their space. Others have a perfect environment and build several benches for particular use.

Skill level in building varies from pick up a book at Home Depot to master craftsman intricate styles.

The length of the table is most important to me. I do lots of belts, and I want the length to lay them out flat. Some people only do smaller pieces like wallets, and need only a few square feet.

I have the skills to make a fine piece of furniture, but never the inclination. I use a 6' folding buffet/office table, but the key was to go to my local counter top installer, and received permission to pick through their junk pile. I found a 6' by 2' piece of stone, 1.25in thick, that I use on top of the folding table. It is rock solid now for everything but 5lb maul slammin'. I do everything from stamping to punching belt tips on it, not a movement.

I would suggest reading all you can here, and especially heed all the good advice the others have given you, but remember, this is for you, and if you are like all the rest of us, you don't know what's best for you. My advice is to set up the space first, even using odd stuff to fill it. As you work, you will see what exactly you need. The best plans are often the developing ones, not the perfectionist route.

[justken]

My new shop had to be more compact than our old one,so had to get creative with benches. If you have the room,you can't go wronge with a full 4'x8' cutting/layout table. You mite not need it right now but if you use sides of leather it'll come in real handy. My cutting bench is 4'x5' with a detachable piece that's 2'x4'. The removeable piece rests on a 2"x2" ledge on table and gets held in place with 2 drywall screws. Other end has a set of legs off a fold-up table thats adjustabe to match main table. Makes table look like a funny looking "L" that's 5'x8'. When not in use,I take out the screws take it down and set out of the way. My cutting table top is a piece of 1" poly cutting board that started out life as a restroom partition. Note: All names and phone numbers were removed to protect the guilty. Best part is almost all of it was gotten from remodle jobs/dumpster diveing. Table frame and legs are made out of 2"x6". Table top is 3/4" plywood with poly over that. Put 1"x4" on sides to hold poly in place. Tooling bench is 2' wide by 4' long. It has a top made out of 2x4's laying flat then 3/4 plywood layers with a cutout area that holds a 14" wide by 2' long piece of 2" granite. I tend to overbuild everything, but nothing has ever fallen apart in use yet!. Hope this gives you some ideas..Just Ken

[Dynamik1]

Thanks everyone for your input...I'll get started. I bet the 3/4" Granite top cost a pretty penny.

Hey Tom,

I was thinking about a concrete top. I have a book that teaches you how to make concrete countertops for kitchens and baths and it looks pretty simple for a workbench too.

Check out the link: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/ho...rtop-forms.aspx?

[gtwister09]

Hey Tom,

I was thinking about a concrete top. I have a book that teaches you how to make concrete countertops for kitchens and baths and it looks pretty simple for a workbench too.

Check out the link: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/ho...rtop-forms.aspx?

Not Tom but I have made several stones for people out of concrete. In fact my Dad's is 4" thick. He made his on steel legs. It has fiber mesh and high slump concrete in it. You can polish it to a high luster with the diamond blades and you can also acid stain it as well. We have done one with black and rose that looks very close to a Baltic Brown. The black stain was put down in a speckled pattern first and then it was followed up with the rose stain. Another one looks like the Galaxy granite and was just black stain added to the mix with a lot of silver flecks in it from some heavy glitter. One of the stones that we made looks just like a ledged surface plate so that you could get your hands under the edge of it to more easily move it around. It was 18X24 and still weighed 75 pounds. Cheng was one of the first to do this and add soft metal and stones to his concrete. You can also attend deminars across the country on concrete staining and countertops. They have ones that you pour into a form and some that you can pour in place. We have created our forms from melamine and created special coves for the edges with molding. The sky is the limit on this. I was creating a how to document for some others on making these for stamping stones. When I get it done I will forward it ion.

Regards,

Ben

[HarryB]

Just glancing over the other comments, I didn't see one feature I have that is GREAT: wheels. I bought heavy duty rollers, figured the height that I wanted, figured the height of the rollers, and then cut my 4 X 4 legs that much shorter minus 3/4". I first mounted the rollers on a piece of 3/4" plywood the same size as my bench top and built my bench on this bottom shelf. It gives an enormous amount of storage space. I also have two drawers mounted under my cutting surface that hold all my most commonly used edgers, stitching groovers, etc and patterns. My bench top was cut out of a 4 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood. I cut two feet off one end and 18" off the width. I hinged the 18" piece so that it can be raised like a table leaf and I kee the 2 foot piece that can be braced on the end, making a full 4 X 8 top when needed. The rollers make a breeze to move and sweep under plus I can use low shelves mounted on the wall that I can move the bench over to get to the shelves. Just another idea.

[Luke Hatley]

I HAVE SEEN HIS BENCH AND IT IS A GREAT WORK AREA, ESPECIALLY THE DRAWERS,

WITH THE TOOLS CLOSE AT HAND,

[ABC3]

All great comments and they just keep coming. So I think I'll start off & build the frame & then come back to the forum & decide on the top. Space is not a concern & I do have 4 other work benches in the room (Including my reloading bench which I can't move). I'll just have to work around it.

I think I'll go with the 4'x 8' for layout.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'm assuming pine for the frame - right......

[HarryB]

Pine will work fine. I used 4 x 4 posts for my legs and 2 x 4 for my apron. If you are going with the 4 x 8 size I would upgrade to 2 x 6 for the apron. The only problem I have had in the past with a full 4 x 8 workbench top: magnatism! Everything in the shop seems to be drawn to it and I end up with about a 2 x 4 foot working area. Then it takes a couple of days to put everything back where it belongs.

Edited January 17, 2009 by HarryB

[tonyc1]

Pine will work fine. I used 4 x 4 posts for my legs and 2 x 4 for my apron. If you are going with the 4 x 8 size I would upgrade to 2 x 6 for the apron. The only problem I have had in the past with a full 4 x 8 workbench top: magnatism! Everything in the shop seems to be drawn to it and I end up with about a 2 x 4 foot working area. Then it takes a couple of days to put everything back where it belongs.

I have the same problem! My main bench is 12' x 4' and I end up doing most of my work in an area about 3' x 2'.

Tony.