Members Mart99 Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 Hello, I have an issue with holes made by my pricking iron (or probably with my saddle stitching technique). Due to my almost non-existent experience of around 2 weeks, I can't understand what's at fault here. Here is a problem: I make holes with Joseph Dixon pricking iron #9. When stitching I put the second needle behind the first one and on exit of the second needle I throw the thread over it (towards me). I do this in an attempt to get slanted stitches on both sides (the technique may well be wrong). Stitches on both sides are slightly slanted, but the holes look too large for stitches used: I will post some better quality pictures later on, but would you think this is to do with the iron producing holes that are too long, or my stitching is at a serious fault here, which results in the thread being pushed towards the top of the stitch? Any recommendations on how to fix that? Would Vergez Blanchard pricking iron #9 produce shorter holes? Thanks in advance and sorry if the topic has been raised a 1000 times already, couldn't find any reports of similar issues here... Quote
Members Macca Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 are you punching all the way through ? The dixons irons are best used to mark the stitching then use an awl to cut through the leather, although for a wallet its probably thin enough not to matter. On a No.9 the teeth are quite wide so it looks about right The holes will close up a bit over time Its hard to say on your technique without seeing it Have a look at Nige's videos on youtube, he uses dixons as well Some great vids there https://www.youtube.com/user/Nordicbadger/videos Quote
Members camano ridge Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) A pricking iron is normally used to mark the stitch holes not to make them. After marking the holes you would use a diamond awl to actually make the holes. The holes will heal up some around the thread giving a tighter looking hole. The pricking iron tines are tapered so the further you push them into theleather the bigger the hole. Refer to the Al stohlman book on stitching or watch the video by Leodis Leather on saddle stitching. Looks like Macca and I were typing at the same time sorry about the duplication here is a link to Niegels video Edited September 2, 2013 by camano ridge Quote https://www.facebook.com/CamanoRidgeCustomLeather?fref=ts
Members Ski Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 If the holes seem too big, try a thicker thread? Although your picture lacks detail, stitching looks good to me Quote Warm regards, Mark Skiba
Members silverwingit Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 I'm with Ski. You have to match the thread to the width of the pricking iron slits. I'll also underscore the point about only marking the holes with the iron. If you drive the iron all the way through the leather, especially thick leather, you'll end up with gargantuan holes compared to following the pricking iron slit marks with a good sharp awl. You need to get your pricking iron technique down and then ensure that your thread is the proper size for that iron. Good luck, Michelle Quote
Members Mart99 Posted September 2, 2013 Author Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 Ok, reached for a piece of leather that shows this issue better Thanks Macca, camani ridge and Ski, I am indeed punching all the way through, but judging by a few videos on youtube, some leatherworkers do punch the holes through all the way for smaller items: Trying a thicker thread will add another piece of puzzle - I understand Hermes artisans mostly use Lin Cable 532 or 632 for small accessories, as well as Vergez Blanchard pricking irons, but I, for some reason, thought they use #9? I could also see on some pictures online, no matter how wide the hole, stitches seem to almost ideally run from one hole to the next, while in my case it either starts or ends in the middle. So, yes, feels like I'll have to start from scratch with my tools:) Quote
Members Macca Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) thats a blanchard punch, smaller teeth than the dixons Notice also he is pulling the threads at a significant angle, skip to 2:57 onwards, look at the angle of the piece relative to how he pulls to tighten the stitching, that will put the stitching in the corners I reckon Give that a go ? Definitely nothing wrong with the tools, Nigel manages the stitching you are looking for with dixons, could be thread thickness or something in your technique Edited September 2, 2013 by Macca Quote
Members Matt S Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 It may be a bit of a daunting task, but many users will thin a Dixons pricking iron. They are notorious for having very thick teeth. Quote
Members Jax Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 I think Matt hit the nail on the head there, the newer Dixons pricking irons do seem to have larger teeth, the last time I bought a new one (many moons ago) I asked if they could make the teeth smaller, I used to be able to call into the factory & often took a piece of leather with marks punched to give them an idea of what I wanted, they were always happy to adjust the tool & it only took a few minutes, I've not bought from them in a long time so don't know what they are like now, but they were always very helpful & friendly when I was buying my tools. These days I tend to look out for old pricking irons, they do have much finer teeth. Quote
Members camano ridge Posted September 2, 2013 Members Report Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) Here is some great info on Dixon Pricking irons including how to use them sizing and a video on proper use. http://www.sharkdesigns.co.uk/bushcraft/Products%20Folder/leather_tools/dixons_pricking_irons_2_teeth.html Edited September 2, 2013 by camano ridge Quote https://www.facebook.com/CamanoRidgeCustomLeather?fref=ts
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