friquant

Can you post some photos/videos of your Pfaff 130? Foot Pedal Does your foot pedal give linear response? That is, proportionally more torque based on how far your press the pedal? If not, buy a new pedal. Here's one I bought recently which gives good response: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D8WPWTY Slow Downers As for slowing it down (and increasing available torque) there are many ways to slow down a machine. Adding an oversize handwheel is just one: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/132445-domestic-motor-with-plywood-pulley/ Other ways include going to a smaller motor pulley, or adding a speed reducer between the motor and the machine. Or finding a motor that is slower in the first place. Here is a link to the Used Sewing Machines: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/84-used/

No lock screws on this one. I've got the head unit on my workbench, and I've been experimenting with different support points using a test support. Some positions are quite stable, other cause it to lift at the hinge line. I think I'll 3D print a new support (shorter than the original so the head unit pivots exactly 90 degrees) and use either a screw or double-sided sticky tape to hold it down in one of the stabler locations. The other idea that popped in would be to screw the support to the back of the machine head. But then I'd have to source screws that match the threads that the rear cover plate is already using.

You can disconnect the belt while you diagnose.

Anybody care to measure the distance from the hinge line to the tilt stump on their machine? My working hypothesis is that a tilt stump too close the the hinge axis will lift the machine off its hinges. For reference, this is the hinge type on the table. I have not personally owned this style of hinge. It appears that even with the machine head tilted back, the hinge can still be pulled straight out of the table. But I suspect that is true of this other style as well:

How does this "tilt stump" attach to the table? Is there a nut under the table? Or do I pry the plastic cap off to reveal a bolt head and it screws out the top? This is a customer's machine, a FEIT DCL-8500N. The closest manual I have found so far is this one for the Artisan 8500N. I brought the head unit home with me for repair. But I'm convinced that the tilt stump is in the wrong place. It prevented the head unit from tilting all the way back. But after a couple minutes, the handwheel end of the head unit slithered off the table hinge and into the drip pan. Nobody was hurt in the process, but seems liable to happen again. My intention is to move the stump further away from the operator, and a maybe a couple inches left (from the operator's perspective) so that it loses its tendency to lift the machine off of the table hinge closest to the hand wheel. But I'll need to pack the appropriate tools to do so, and while I was there I did not manage to figure out how it attaches. artisan-8500n__similar-to-feit-dcl-8500n__manual.pdf

I would recommend a bottom feed machine. I've been using this bottom-feed Singer 31-15 on a tabletop skirt for my thinner goods. We have a domestic sewing machine that would work as well, but I like bigger toys I guess. If the machine you're looking at is in sewing condition, you could take some of your canvas and thread (TEX 70 I'm guessing) and make sure it will sew through as many layers as you are likely to need, and make sure it has even stitch length when going over minor humps.

This box looks complex. It has the following ports which are common to a lot of digital servo motors: X1, X2: motor X3: gas pedal X7: needle positioner But then there's additionally X5 (head unit) and X4 (looks like a control panel) that most digital servo motor's don't have. In other words, I'll bet this is a proprietary system and that it will be difficult to buy the pieces individually.

Can we get a photo of the back of the box that says "pico drive"? Also can we get separate photos of each piece that plugs into the back of the motor? I'm not familiar with this model, but trying to see if all the parts are here.

Here is a photo of the compressor pulley, relayed from @catskin

Can you post a link to where you bought your pulley? I recently ordered this 25cm pulley from amazon, still waiting for it. Yours looks more comfortable and safer (harder to get fingers caught in it.)

Some needle bars appear to accept either shank diameter (1.6mm or 2mm) but the hook to needle distance is affected. Also where the needle lands in the throat plate is affected. When using round shank needles of the wrong diameter, you may be able to make up the geometry difference by rotating the needle bar a certain amount. (Meaning the needle clamp would protrude at some odd angle instead of protruding straight to the right) At least that was my fix at the time when I thought I had a bent needle bar in my Singer 31-15. Eventually I checked the needle bar on a thick piece of glass and found it to be straight, and ended up determining that the machine actually needed 2.0mm shanked needles for the needle to line up with the throat plate. That was such a happy discovery ⭐

That is a beautiful pulley!

Can we get photos of the screw?

You could do a bit of science here and move one tooth back to the original, to confirm that it's quiet in the original configuration and loud being one tooth off.

I have not done this, but this would be the process: Mark your starting position on both gears. Slide the larger gear left, advance one tooth, slide it right, check for noise. Keep cycling through the teeth until you find the one that is quiet. On mine (Singer 144) the smaller gear has 15 teeth, so that's 15 positions to check. But unless you did some screw swapping (set screw for position screw) I expect you to only need to go one tooth over to find the original position.