friquant

Found the video on youtube, as his website is no longer working:

Mine has a 30 inch cable from the hall sensor to the control box. I mounted the gas pedal and the hall sensor today, but waiting to see where the best location is for the control box after I get the rest of the table set up.

@kgg This servo motor I ordered through alibaba. It took two months to get here, so I may see if I can make it work. About half of the servo motors I'm seeing for sale on amazon and ebay now come with this reduced size / tapered pulley, but I have not seen anybody selling small diameter replacement pulleys for them yet. Perhaps they think the servo motor controller will handle all the speed adjustments we need? 🙄 In the spirit of experimentation, I decided to print one. I'm not sure how long it will last. This is 3D (FDM) printed with PETG, which has better toughness than PLA or ABS. It's 35mm outer diameter.

Where can I find a 45mm or smaller replacement pulley for a tapered shaft? The shaft is about 11.5mm at one side of the pulley but tapers to 9.1mm at the other. By the way this came with a new servo motor that looks very much like this one being sold on amazon

@kgg Suggested a smaller needle. Here is a sample with a size 100 needle, front and back.

Here's one more sample of the 0.4mm canvas. This time I've marked the curly Q's with black marker To be clear, it's not the bottom thread showing through that I'm trying to fight. I understand that is a tough challenge on thin fabrics. But the curly Q's are new to me, and I'd like to know what is causing them, or how to make them go away. It reminds me of when I allow a long piece of thread to double over on itself, then the loop that is formed curls together.

Here are two samples on different materials The first is 0.1mm printer paper. The stitches are uniform. No curls The second is 0.4mm canvas. This one has curls. 125 needle, round point TEX 70 unbonded thread

These are round point needles. Organ MTX 190 (R) Reading up on Schmetz Serv 7 needles now...

Glad it's not just me, and sad there's no easy fix! 😁

The past week i notice my top thread is sometimes curling around the bottom thread. A few curly Q's along the seam. It seems most noticeable with thin materials. I'd like these stitches to be straight. (The bottom side actually looks better, which is rare for me.) Ive tried changing the bobbin tension and the top tension. I've tried adjusting the thread take-up spring. Needle is size 125 (Singer 20). Machine is pfaff 545 H4 Fabric in photo is a single layer of thin canvas-looking stuff (0.4mm thick). Thread in photo is TEX 70 polyester UNbonded but I get the same effect when using TEX 90 polyester bonded. First photo is top side Second photo is bottom side

Amazon sent me a replacement, and both units exhibit the same behavior. Still troubleshooting.

I have considered replacing the belt, but it still functions smoothly and it is old enough to no longer have a chemical smell, so I think I'll keep it for now. There is only one belt...from the 45mm motor pulley to the 80mm balance wheel pulley. (No other speed reducer.)

Using the Consew C1000 servo motor with needle position sensor from this website: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6IYMCZ Also running this 45mm motor pulley: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ42TGY It is quite convenient that it can do single stitches (the majority of the time). The majority of the time it does give exactly one stitch, and it completes the stitch at its slowest possible speed, which with the gear reduction is about 110 stitches per minute. But about 10 percent of the time, when I tap the gas pedal to ask for a single stitch, it instead does the following: Goes one full revolution at HIGH speed, then Makes a big THUNK sound, then Goes one more full revolution at its minimum speed Anybody else having issues like this? Here's a video. In this video, you can see a wave in the belt when the thunk happens. (Perhaps the thunk is a brake??) Here is a video:

Here are photos of the Pfaff 545, since they are somewhat different than what the 1245 service manual shows. To adjust timing: loosen the two screws at A. To adjust hook-to-needle distance: Loosen the two screws at B (to move the hook saddle) and also loosen the two screws at D and the two screws at E (to adjust the new mating distance of the bevel gears.) As for the two screws at C, they do not need to be loosened. One of the screws at C is resting on a flat spot ground into the hook driveshaft, so that's why you have to use the screws at A to adjust timing.

That makes sense...I've been focusing on the needle thread that I can see while the inner toe is in the air. Open toe would be visible more of the time