friquant

I would recommend a bottom feed machine. I've been using this bottom-feed Singer 31-15 on a tabletop skirt for my thinner goods. We have a domestic sewing machine that would work as well, but I like bigger toys I guess. If the machine you're looking at is in sewing condition, you could take some of your canvas and thread (TEX 70 I'm guessing) and make sure it will sew through as many layers as you are likely to need, and make sure it has even stitch length when going over minor humps.

This box looks complex. It has the following ports which are common to a lot of digital servo motors: X1, X2: motor X3: gas pedal X7: needle positioner But then there's additionally X5 (head unit) and X4 (looks like a control panel) that most digital servo motor's don't have. In other words, I'll bet this is a proprietary system and that it will be difficult to buy the pieces individually.

Can we get a photo of the back of the box that says "pico drive"? Also can we get separate photos of each piece that plugs into the back of the motor? I'm not familiar with this model, but trying to see if all the parts are here.

Here is a photo of the compressor pulley, relayed from @catskin

Can you post a link to where you bought your pulley? I recently ordered this 25cm pulley from amazon, still waiting for it. Yours looks more comfortable and safer (harder to get fingers caught in it.)

Some needle bars appear to accept either shank diameter (1.6mm or 2mm) but the hook to needle distance is affected. Also where the needle lands in the throat plate is affected. When using round shank needles of the wrong diameter, you may be able to make up the geometry difference by rotating the needle bar a certain amount. (Meaning the needle clamp would protrude at some odd angle instead of protruding straight to the right) At least that was my fix at the time when I thought I had a bent needle bar in my Singer 31-15. Eventually I checked the needle bar on a thick piece of glass and found it to be straight, and ended up determining that the machine actually needed 2.0mm shanked needles for the needle to line up with the throat plate. That was such a happy discovery ⭐

That is a beautiful pulley!

Can we get photos of the screw?

You could do a bit of science here and move one tooth back to the original, to confirm that it's quiet in the original configuration and loud being one tooth off.

I have not done this, but this would be the process: Mark your starting position on both gears. Slide the larger gear left, advance one tooth, slide it right, check for noise. Keep cycling through the teeth until you find the one that is quiet. On mine (Singer 144) the smaller gear has 15 teeth, so that's 15 positions to check. But unless you did some screw swapping (set screw for position screw) I expect you to only need to go one tooth over to find the original position.

I just realized that you are running the machine under power without the throat plate in place. That is generally a bad idea as the machine could bind. I don't know if that will affect the sound It's safe to turn by hand without the throat plate though

You might try sliding the gear on the hook driving shaft all the way left (so it no longer drives the hook). Then see if it still makes noise when you move the hand wheel. That will tell you if it's hook related or not. While the gear is out of the way, also try rotating the hook by hand and check for noise there. Before all that: if your teeth are still matched up as from the factory, I suggest marking them before sliding the gear out so you can but them back in the same place.

Yes, do post some pictures. 🤩

Here is the comment that contains the video: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/36127-pfaff-545-safety-clutch-and-timing/page/2/#findComment-442262 It's the video that Adler 67 GK 373. Don't remember how far through

Photos Please 📸