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friquant

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  • Website URL
    https://repair.jackdesert.com

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  • Location
    Little Rock, AR (USA)
  • Interests
    Restoration, documentation, sewing machine motors.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gearmotors, servo motors, VFD.
  • Interested in learning about
    Old machines
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  1. This topic has inspired me to try stitching with larger cotton thread. I often use number 10 cotton yarn for practicing and prototyping, because I like the puffy look and it's available in bright colors. The next size up is "number 3", so I acquired a spool. Here is some number 3 cotton yarn ("natural" color) through the needle. The thread has a lineal weight of 360 mg/m, so it would be TEX 360 if you applied that scale. I used number 10 cotton yarn (black) in the bobbin, which weighs 170mg/m This is on a singer 144W103 with size 180 needle. Here is the number 3 yarn I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRLDP8CB
  2. I'm finally living in a table, but still have to shuffle the motor out from behind the machine because I haven't got it mounted down below yet. I still make some adjustments/observations by squatting down to see from underneath. (The sheet metal drip pan / knee protector has been removed, otherwise I guess I'd need x-ray vision)
  3. Looks like the belt is one tooth off.
  4. Feed timing looks good. The needle plate is loose, but I assume you knew that, and I don't think it will change the stitch length.
  5. Oh I see.. The feed eccentric slid about 1.25 inches to the right, exposing the actual cam lobe. Based on the manual page 24, "Feed Eccentric Adjustment", I think you are to slide the feed eccentric to the left so the cam lobe goes inside the pushrod, then apply your chosen amount of pressure to the left to compress the "feed driving eccentric adjusting disc spring" to achieve your chosen amount of spring pressure. Then tighten what appears to be set screws in the collar that holds the spring.
  6. I'm not able to view the videos. What format are they? Some people upload to youtube, the embed here. I find that too much work, so I shrink mine using ffmpeg (and convert to .mp4 along the way), then upload directly.
  7. They even match the paint job! 🤩 Does your machine have a piercer? That manual that Bob linked shows a piercer on page 22. I wondered what those are for..
  8. This post is informative of the consew t1919 performance envelope:
  9. Can you post photos of the thread path? What size and kind of thread are you using? What material are you stitching, and what size needle?
  10. I did buy some synthetic transmission oil. Somewhat surprised it's still red. 🍎 But it smells neutral. Actually even the diesel has not much smell when it's just a few drops. I'm not even doing it on the porch---too much strain. Just right in the living room, a couple drops of diesel and then shut the arm cap. Nobody has complained 😀
  11. Clarifying here...are you able to adjust the stitch length? Meaning can you adjust to go smaller than 6/in ? When making the adjustment toward longer stitches, does the adjustment screw stop? When your needle lands on the material, what is the motion of the feed dog? Ideally the feed dog is stopped front to back motion when the needle lands. Just wondering if you are losing some traction by something else being out of time. Perhaps a video of your feed dogs working, and photos of your stitch length regulator?
  12. It's getting better! When I got the machine it stitched 8mm stitches. After the first round of diesel it was adjustable from 8mm - 12mm. I'm guessing that 12mm is the maximum for this machine since it seems to come to hard stop there, and it's a "round number". A week or so later I tried again and now it adjusts down to 6mm! Guess I'll keep soaking it as I use it to see if it will keep freeing up. If I can get it down to 3mm that's probably good enough. I appreciate the help
  13. I finally came across an old post by gottaknow where he shows us the answer to my question above, "How to always have the hook to needle distance be next to nothing?" https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/47477-211g155-do-i-have-the-wrong-machine/page/6/#findComment-304044
  14. That's great! Ideally the safety clutch would trip before the belt slips, so on some cold October night you may want to investigate how to get the safety clutch to disengage under load. Figure 65 (page 26) shows a style of safety clutch that is unfamiliar to me. I think you adjust those three screws coming out the side to set how easily the clutch trips.
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