friquant

Can you post a link to where you bought your pulley? I recently ordered this 25cm pulley from amazon, still waiting for it. Yours looks more comfortable and safer (harder to get fingers caught in it.)

Some needle bars appear to accept either shank diameter (1.6mm or 2mm) but the hook to needle distance is affected. Also where the needle lands in the throat plate is affected. When using round shank needles of the wrong diameter, you may be able to make up the geometry difference by rotating the needle bar a certain amount. (Meaning the needle clamp would protrude at some odd angle instead of protruding straight to the right) At least that was my fix at the time when I thought I had a bent needle bar in my Singer 31-15. Eventually I checked the needle bar on a thick piece of glass and found it to be straight, and ended up determining that the machine actually needed 2.0mm shanked needles for the needle to line up with the throat plate. That was such a happy discovery ⭐

That is a beautiful pulley!

Can we get photos of the screw?

You could do a bit of science here and move one tooth back to the original, to confirm that it's quiet in the original configuration and loud being one tooth off.

I have not done this, but this would be the process: Mark your starting position on both gears. Slide the larger gear left, advance one tooth, slide it right, check for noise. Keep cycling through the teeth until you find the one that is quiet. On mine (Singer 144) the smaller gear has 15 teeth, so that's 15 positions to check. But unless you did some screw swapping (set screw for position screw) I expect you to only need to go one tooth over to find the original position.

I just realized that you are running the machine under power without the throat plate in place. That is generally a bad idea as the machine could bind. I don't know if that will affect the sound It's safe to turn by hand without the throat plate though

You might try sliding the gear on the hook driving shaft all the way left (so it no longer drives the hook). Then see if it still makes noise when you move the hand wheel. That will tell you if it's hook related or not. While the gear is out of the way, also try rotating the hook by hand and check for noise there. Before all that: if your teeth are still matched up as from the factory, I suggest marking them before sliding the gear out so you can but them back in the same place.

Yes, do post some pictures. 🤩

Here is the comment that contains the video: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/36127-pfaff-545-safety-clutch-and-timing/page/2/#findComment-442262 It's the video that Adler 67 GK 373. Don't remember how far through

Photos Please 📸

Did you find a manual? https://www.lrcrafts.it/manuals-vintage-singer-sewing-machines/ has manuals for similar machines, though I'm not seeing one for the 111W103 specifically. You can even read the manuals for the 111W144, 111W155, 111W156 they'll be similar.

Congrats on machine ownership! I've you've got a vinyl/rubber belt with correct sized teeth but just too many of them, I've read you can shorten the belt: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/59855-singer-307g2-problem/page/2/

Here's a video where someone removes that fork from a Singer 31k15:

The parts list for my Singer 31-15 shows more of these parts together as a group, which might be useful. Have you tried removing the stitch length adjustment screw (818D in this screenshot) ? With that removed maybe the whole cluster will slide out toward the camera..