Tigweldor

In my experience, the cheaper ones made from cheap steel do not hold an edge as long - but can be resharpened in a jiffy. I have a small hook on one of my sewing machine tables - to it a string rubbed with polishing compound is attached - a few strokes and your back in business. If the manufacturer does not explicitly state that the beveler was made in the US of A - you can bet your next pay cheque on it coming somewhere from Asia (China, Korea, Japan). While thick veg tanned leather is easy to bevel - the real challenge as to sharpness comes when having to bevel thin chrome tanned leather. Just my opinion though Greetings Hans

Unless you want to buy a "cat in the bag" - go there in person and try the machines out with the thickest stuff you want to sew. 300 bucks is a very good price for a bar tack sewing machine - 600 would not be gouging you, either. I have made the experience, that when you pick up in person and try out the machine - most times you get some other extras to boot as well (needles, extra feet, manual, etc.) and some good advice from the owner. Greetings Hans

Have you tried it directly through the manufacturer´s homepage ? https://www.sagitta.it/en/assistance/

They take needles 328 I can e-mail you the original manual - it is in German though and I only have it in pdf form. Covers Adler type 4 and type 5 - pretty well identical mechanics - definitely identical thread routing - except one is a flatbed - the other is a cylinder arm machine. They are very close to the Singer 45 - you can sure get a manual for those in English for free online. Greetings Hans

Simply contact the manufacturer. https://akama.com/company/Lubertos_Sewing_Machines_ab0903020246.html

The company Richard Hess Maschinenbau has quit making machines for the leather industry and shoe makers quite a while ago - they now produce coin counting/sorting machines. They have also changed company name to : HESS Cash Systems Greetings Hans

Strap cutter = English Accesories = spelled wrong (missing an "s") "N" Serie = German Maybe an old East German strap cutter made for export - they often used same size paper decal on their equipment/machines - for local distribution it usually had a price right on it to boot.

Bobbin tension to high - see pic#2 - the top thread is pulled right through onto bottom side. #16 needle for 92 thread is pretty good fit - maybe just try an Organ or a Schmetz needle. Still think that the hole in the feed dog is very large, with no sharp edges. That tends to get the leather literally punched into the hole - like a funnel , so to speak. Also, a guy rarely has to sew through a single layer of thin leather - usually you have two layers or more - so this is not an everyday reference sewing manouver. Have you tried doubling up the material and looked at the results ? For such thin leather, you don´t need such big equipment either - you can sew that with a much smaller machine which will then also have a smaller needle plate/feed dog hole. This is like taking a semi-trailer truck to pick up a carton of eggs from your local grocery store, located right around the corner. There is no sewing machine for all jobs - else we would all only have one machine - and thus a lot more space in the work shop. Greetings Hans

The D button is not a developer mode. D+ increases parameter or selects sub program D- decreases parameter or selects sub program read pages 77 to 84 Greetings Hans

Sent you a PM with operating instructions for the OP 1000 Greetings Hans

Okay - will save that in my memory bank. Newest 29K I have owned was a 29K-4 (sold) - although my 29K-33 is only 5 years newer. All had this adjustment - same as my 29K-56 (sold). Greetings Hans

Re read this posting. the little round holed lever to take pressure from the thread tensioning discs is mounted on the other side of the head between 2 lock nuts. You can move the lever up by loosening the top lock nut and tightening the bottom lock nut - thread sticking out the top is about 6mm = 1/4 inch on my machines. Greetings Hans

Just make sure you get needles from a reputable manufacturer. The best ones are : Schmetz, Organ and Groz-Beckert - the rest is pretty well no-name brand - don´t waste your money on junk. Greetings Hans

Okay - I´ll keep that stored in my memory bank. But the screw to adjust foot pressure is in the same place - just don´t know if the Singer 45K89 had the lock nut. When I was looking for bigger sewing machines - it was hard to find the 45K models with reverse - have yet to see one with jump foot AND reverse. Also the Adler 4 and 5 here in Germany used to be quite moderately priced - I got both of mine for a very decent price each - even though for the 4-4 I had to drive nigh on 1200 klicks ( 750 miles ) there and return to pick it up. That amounted to a looong day of driving.

Also check your bottom feed dog. Most have a long slot where it is attached to the drive mechanism to adjust lift - if the feed dog does not produce enough lift - it will not transport material properly. Here just a pic : https://www.ebay.de/itm/365413564868?_ Greetings Hans

Forgot to mention - the Adlers came with a little C hook spanner for the locking nut for the foot pressure. The size is 25 to 28mm = 1" to 1 1/8" --- you can still buy them new from Ebay for example. Many of the old bicycle flat "all in one tools" have such a concoction built in - maybe you have one kicking around your shed. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256878747711? Here is one that looks like it may work for a Singer - if your 45K has this lock nut - the ones in the manual do not : https://www.ebay.com/itm/116549309350?

I have jump feet on my Adler 4-4 and on my Adler 5-8 as well. Picture 1 shows the screw around the top of the machine head to increase or lessen foot pressure. Loosen the bottom slotted lock nut - adjust pressure as needed - tighten lock nut. Picture 2 shows the screw to adjust "height of jump" = foot lift. The more you screw in the bolt - the higher the lift. Foot lift should be adjusted to a minimum = max. about 1/8"(3mm) above material at full lift. If all fails - have the bottom of your foot bead blasted to obtain more traction. Greetings Hans

Just came in by courier : 190mm pulley and taperlock bushing with 14mm (= 9/16") bore diameter. Will be installed on my 29K33 - which I lent to my next door neighbor to sew about 100 patches onto 3 denim vests - he is still not home from work. That should slow it down quite a bit - still waiting for the SPZ belt though. I can thoroughly recommend these taperlock bushings for sewing machine drive shafts - the little torque exerted by sewing machine motors or treadles is way less than the cinched up bushing can handle - no key needed with this unit - though it has a key slot in the bushing. The nice thing is that you can play around with different size pulleys, ranging from 50mm to 190mm for the 1610 bushing - which comes for all size shaft diameters. Total cost incl. shipping was 38€ - an investment that will not break the bank. Greetings Hans

I would also look for a different bottom transporter - the hole in yours seems extremely large and with no sharp edges - when the needle penetrates through leather - it will push it into the very large hole and leave ugly dimples - like in your pic #5 that you posted in a different topic - the white bottom thread around the latch.

Do you mean the spring on the inside of the needle bar ? AFAIK the very early needle bars did not have this spring built in - if it sews without any probs - just keep it that way. Greetings Hans

Found one (in German) - 51 pages - seems pretty thorough with adjustments needed - maybe you can find the English version. https://manualzz.com/doc/4480676/juki-ddl-8700b-7--ddl-8700bs-7--ddl-8700bh-7--ddl-8700bj-...#features

Take a look at the handle on your handwheel - I made one out of brass to replace the wooden one - I now have the same problem as you have. The handle will - when the 29K33 is not under belt tension - sink to the bottom As soon as I switch back to the very light wooden handle - the wheel stays in place where ever you leave it. Naturally the handwheel also stays in place when the machine is under belt tension (to treadle or motor) To pull the bobbin winder wheel of the spindle - you need a gear puller and since you have to pull it over the small pointed shaft that the bobbin affixes to - you have to protect this skinny shaft with a tube a little bit longer, so the puller spindle will press on the tube and not the shaft. A small piece of steel brake line would work. You could also place the wheel over a socket, heat the wheel with a propane torch, put the steel brake line over the shaft and hit the brake line with a hammer. Do NOT hit on the little shaft - you will bend it and then your bobbin will wobble when being wound. If the wheel is really stuck - I would just throw it in a small jar of acetone (close the lid, else it evaporates) and leave it over night (without the rubber "tire") - that will dissolve all hardened gunked up oil - the next day oil it thoroughly - there is no need to pull the wheel in my opinion - never had to on all my 29Ks Should you feel grit after the acetone treatment - it is most likely rust - throw the unit into a small jar of vinegar - leave it for a day or two - that will dissolve the rust. Oil thoroughly afterwards.

You will have to play with your thread tension though. On pic#5 the white thread (bobbin) has pulled the brown thread right through the leather. The hole in the arm plate left ugly dimples - comes either from using a fabric needle (for a straight stitch) or to big of a hole in your bottom plate. On the last pic bottom stitching - the slots left by the needle seem to large for the tiny thread coming out of the hole - more of an optical thing than structural - but picky customers could be turned off by that. Please only take this as a hint and not as major faults Greetings Hans