MarlinDave

# 6 for sure spindle off the Head of a cotton picker. Twists and pulls cotton out of bolls. I use them as a stamp and punches.

I got this on eBay or amazon. Has 4 different lenses. Better visor than Harbor Freight. Also use the loupes you hold in your eye - set of eight or something from Harbor Freight.

I did the clutch lever extension. Helped quite a bit. I think the motor/clutch was new and is wearing in and working a bit smoother.

Thanks.

Found the original pulley on Amazon. 1/2 inch for this one and Singer 111.

Yes, I do. And the belt slips. I can manage. But back to the original question, anybody know the shaft size on a Consew 225 pulley?

Yes it had a 2 1/2 or 3 inch pulley when I got it. Now has a 2 inch pulley. Really not that much too fast - just would be nice to run a bit slower. Hate to invest too much in the setup - no income from hobby, machine really is marginal for what I use it for. One of these days I will journey to Tractor Supply and get pulleys, make a jackshaft, etc. to slow it down. I think a pulley under 2 inch would not have enough area and slip more than it does now.

In-law is 3 hours away. Just wanted bigger pulley to slow it down a bit.

I guess you can have too much retention. Just made a Rhodesian style holster for 1911. Wet molded it and boned it all I could and set it in front of heater vent last night. This morning gun would not come out of holster. Ripped a couple of stitches and got it out. Added a rivet at top to patch my stitches. Good thing I don’t make my living with leather.

I have a Consew 225 that is in good shape with clutch motor. Got it through an in-law who services sewing machines and It works ok and will barely do my one use on holsters. He showed me how-where to lube it. When I do a holster it might sew 2 minutes, then sit in my shop for a month or 2. How often to oil it? Unlikely I will live long enough to put 8 hours on it. Also, does anybody know the shaft size to upsize to a larger pulley on the machine?

Thanks. Very educational site.

That’s neat. Thanks.

The way that thong is tied to the hammer it would be petty slow to deploy. Maybe when you fan it from the hip the tie down cones off.

Could have been added later as it is not attached. I would hang that strap in the hay baler if I wore it long.

Thanks. It was in “Cowboy Gear” by David. R. Stoecklein. My reenactor buddy loaned me some coffee table books from his collection for holster ideas. At least some of the stuff in the book looks authentic. This holster was marked “Moran Brothers. “ I usually just punch 2 holes in front of rear sight and put a thong loop.

I hope this picture posts. Saw a western holster in a cowboy gear historical book. It has a thong on the hammer which threads down through the double loops, hangs down 8 or 10 inches with a metal washer at the end. Looks like holster would fall out before it catches.

Don’t think you can make it lighter and not soften the blow.

Drill the head full of holes.

Strange stuff but effective.Made about 2 cups with white vinegar and washed steel wool. Let it work about 2 days. Tried to keep the wool submerged but it kept bubbling up. Took the wool out and it was clear. Started to apply it the next day and full of chunks of rust. Strained these out with blue shop towels. Dye went on great and looks perfect after neats foot oil. Looked in the jar today and it was full of rust again. Strained it again and there is not much left. Guess I just need to make a batch with every holster. Man is it black.

Thank you.

Got some vinegroon brewing. Never used it before. I usually use Neatsfoot oil. Vinegroon, then neatsfoot, or give versa?

Josh, I looked at some of your holsters on the single action forum. The birder stamps make me wish I could master serpentine. My gosh.

Very nice. Thanks.

I really just wondered how they went together. Looking at them from the outside I could not see how it could work or help much. Apparently they don’t. I’ll put extra effort into my wet forming.

Thank you.