TheLegend

Wow!!! This topic is Old. FYI, for anyone, that spots by, and reads any of this. You can purchase, Tribolt Hardware, for the camp stool, at Lee Valley Tools. It's not cheap, but is quality and looks good.

I know this is an old post, but saw a 2014 post, so i thought i would update, or add, so if anyone see's it, they have some fresh news on Jeremy's saddles. I'm a leather worker, and have built one saddle. Also, have saddle making friends. I just sold my Stead Wade to my packing buddy, for his hunters. In my opinion, and the opinion of a couple saddle making friends, they are good saddles. Jeremy, uses Heavy skirting leather on them. They are a little heavy, but that's do to the thick skirting leather. They are well built, and you won't be disappointed if you buy one. They are a production saddle. Meaning, jeremy has several guys working the shop. Hamleys, are production saddles also. Meaning, again, there are more than ONE person, working on the saddles. I will say this about seat size, i am 33" in the waist, and i previously, had a 16" seat, in my saddle. I got my Stead, in a 15 1/2" seat, and what a difference it made in my legs and balance. But, that being said, i wish i had ordered a 15" seat. The saddle i built myself, came in at a 14 3/4" seat. Remember, i'm 33" in the waist. What a difference that made, on placing me in the sweet spot. My legs hang down correctly, my butt didn't hurt. My point in all this is, no matter who you get a saddle from, get the right seat size. Too many ppl, are riding saddles that are to big for their body frame. So, if your looking for a Wade, Steads are a good buy. I can't make one for that price, but, that's ME, making one saddle at a time. Hope this helps the next person.

I also was at the Pendleton Leather Show this year, and was on the hunt for a New round knife. This was the First leather show i have ever been too, and it was Great getting hands on, on all the products for sale. Spent a lot of money, but very please with what i bought. So, i first looked at the Wrangler knives. I know they are spendie, but i was determined to get a new head knife. Was inpressed with wrangler. But it was the first day of the show, so i did my class and looked around on sat. I had talked with Brett on Fri. and handled his knife and like it. Also like the price. Ran across a gal in my class that had bought one of Bretts knives the previous year and liked it. Went back to Brett and talked a while longer. Bretts knives arent cheap either. But they are half of Leather Wranglers. So i bought one, and so far, love it. It's nice having a solid quality knife in your hand while cutting leather. I would recommend a knife from Bret Bronson for sure.

What is the best way to thin your oil base dye like fiebings?

Needing to up date my swivel knife and blades. What type of swivel knives and blades do you all use?

Well, here goes from me! In the beginning, you will kick your self on what leather you have bought. You can find a leather thickness guide at tandy leather. I buy most of my chap/chink leather from tandy. There service is Great! There product gets to your front door pretty fast. Your thinner chap/chink sides are for show. You don't need the protection from trees, barbed wire, thorns, etc. A 4/5 oz. leather is a good weight for working chap/chinks. The 5/6 is getting pretty heavy and hot for summer time use. Climate and what you are going to use them for plays a part. But, the thicker the leather the more it cost. So, if your just starting out go with 4/5 oz. and you will do fine. For your top plate and leg plate and back leg plate, that becomes a little tricky on ordering leather. I use a 7-8 oz. on those parts and sometimes a 8-9 oz. leather on it. Just depends on how i feel. I don't want the chinks to be too stiff for movement and uncomfortable in the saddle. You didn't say what pattern you are using! The tandy pattern is good, but it's a little confusing on the length when you cut it out. Bob Klenda Saddles sales patterns and they are nice patterns. I know bob and they work good. You also go to "cow camp saddlery" and get his dvd and chink pattern. Seeing your just starting out, it will help you a lot on your measurements. Worth the investment. Oh, i have modified most patterns that i have bought. It's just what works or doesn't work for you. Bottom line, there are a lot of places to buy chap/chink leather. You can experiment with buying from others once you get your craft down. Good Luck To You!!!

I'm in the same boat as you. Looking right now for info on what's the best swivel knife to buy. I have one, but want to up grade and scared to push the 'BUY' button. Start with the crappy tools and buy better ones, one at a time. You can always re-sale a Good tool but crappy tool is still a cheap tool.

Good Morning Folks! I am trying to find a carlos border stamp. Doesn't seem to be readily available. Anyone know where i can purchase one?

This pancake knife sheath is one i have just finished. It is for sale by the way. This sheath will take a 1 1/2" belt. The sheath pocket will hold a 5" to 6 1/2" folder or fixed blade knife. This is a Right Hand Draw to be worn on your right hip. All sewing is done by hand and color instead of tooling is my medium. After you have worn this sheath for a while, it will patina up real nice. If interested, please contact me. rush_one_or@hotmail.com

This is your lucky day my friend! You can do it two ways. One way is to glue two pieces of leather together for the body of your spur strap and at the end of the body where it attaches to the spur button you leave un-glued. Should be the round part. You punch for the button on the inside piece and punch for the concho on the outside piece. It's a little tricky. This method though, pushes the concho out when you attach the inter piece to the spur button. I just finished two pair of straps using both method's i am describing. The first one i just mentioned looks kind of not so good. So, when i went to make my second pair i researched (looked at alot of pictures) and came up with this method. Looks better and is easier to do. Ok, go ahead and complete your spur straps. On the body where the concho will go, go ahead and punch for the concho. On the back side where you need to attach to the spur button, make another piece of leather that extends a little back behind the end of the body. Go ahead and punch for the button at the longer end and punch for the concho. You attach the extra piece of leather using the concho screw back. Use some lock-tite for the screw. This maybe as clear as mud. I hope not! Basicly, you are using a second piece of leather to attach to your spurs and it comes out with a cleaner look. I attached a pic of the straps with out the back leather for the button. I couldn't find the photo of the straps with the leather. Hope you figure it out. If not write me.