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qarawol

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Everything posted by qarawol

  1. may want them.

    Keep in touch and share any new sewing machines you get. As for me, I think I'll stick with the treadles.

    Njoy Life...

    Rick

  2. My first antique sewing machine gave me the bug and I now have about 14 of them in under 3 months.

    I like to work with wood and decided to make some of my own tops for some. It's fun and relaxing. I have not done much of re-laminating but I guess I can do it 'cause I do have to tools.

    I plan on making a few replacement wood drawers and slides for the machines I ha...

  3. Hi Kate,

    Sorry for the late reply. I just got started in antique sewing machines. I've always sewed by hand using the saddle stitch. I got caught up in the old antiques being able to sew leather. I found out the hard way... NOPE! Just the thin stuff.

    I too make my own custom leather holsters. My specialty is Flashlights, the high end ones $200.00 - $1000...

  4. A co-worker ran across this at a yard sale. He did not get the model number or serial number and does not know when he will be back. He thinks they were asking $150.00 US for it. Can anyone here ID this for me so that I can read up on it a bit more. Pictures were taken from his cell phone to mine. THANKS! Njoy Life...
  5. Looks like who ever had this machine before me did that wire spring trick many times. Here is what my wire spring looks like. The picture shows a good portion of the spring was already under the groove and handled a lot or turning... I'll take your word Wizcrafts. Those large bobbins looked tempting though. I'll get or make a new wire spring and post if that fix helped on the rotating tension. If it doesn't and the free rotating become a problem for me... the lock screw will be the answer. Going back to the needle plate. I see no size difference in the holes. Maybe from many mis aligned needles the smaller needle hole eventually became larger. Will this be a concern or will the material sewn and the needle be the factor in creating the right thread in material tension to make that proper loop before the hook grabs it? Njoy Life...
  6. Some of my so-called privileges were removed from NB and I never knew why until a recent reply from the Admin. His reply was made and the topic was then locked and remains for all members to read. I then wrote a formal apology letter to Admin, which is as follows... "Alan, Thank you for the response. I understand that this is your website and you will do as you please but for what it is worth… I would like to formally apologize for any and all wrong doings here on NB. My avatar was removed with no explanation until now. How was I to know that my user name and what it meant written around it in picture form was going to be a problem? I never had any so called hand slap so I never knew I was in the wrong. I have read many posts that you have removed links to and you added a few words (not exact) of "Don't Do That! Not Allowed!" - I never had that. Yes I knew about no posting of commercial sites on the forums but 'not' in the profile section that has a 'website' field to fill in. I noticed it kept disappearing and I have re-typed it several times thinking it was a glitch. It would have been nice to be told what was going on and not to fill it in again. Also, would you like me to change my user name? As for my so-called 'overlarge posts'… isn't it better to write it out in detail at first so that most info is out front and spelled out clearly? If you are referring to the one when I talked about the types of electricity available here in the states, that thread started as me just saying I had a 220v motor that broke apart and I was going to change it to a 120v one. If I write too much detail, tell me, I'll tone it down. If I write nonsense, tell me that too. Tell me when I am doing wrong or what you would like changed in my writing, I have no problem with that via open forum or PM. But I do need to be informed of it in order to better myself here. I know I don't know it all when it comes to these antique sewing machines but I have grown/learned a lot and fast. A total of 13 or 14 antique machines in fewer than 3 months time. Most were not usable at first. I am not just a taker of info on forums that I join. I'll do my best to contribute. I have done this here by finding problems with the machines I have and posted my findings and how I solved them. Pictures were sent in but never posted. I know it costs to run a website. I'll donate money if it is accepted. I've also have sold items on other forums to where 100% of sales went to the forum to help out. I wanted to offer FREE items here to members and I did ask first. I'll build simple custom tabletops, drawers or slides and you can have 100% of the sales if it will help. All I ask is exact shipping cost and cost for any special wood request. Again, I am not just a taker of info. Most here collect and use an antique sewing machine. We talk about collecting and restoring them. Many have wrote about what needle is needed as well as correcting the stitch length and timing. We write about what the optional feet are used for as well as other attachments… so why is it not about sewing also but using a pre 1960 machine to do it? That is what these machines were designed to do… sew. But no more from me about sewing since you have said something about it. This site has a lot to offer and I know I can do my part to contribute as well. Though without the use of the 'Search' or PM's it does not make it enjoyable to use this site. I am not going to request my membership be removed but I do ask if I can get a fresh start. Again, I apologize! Thanks for reading. Rick" This 'EXACT" apology was posted in the open forum for all to read and has been deleted with no reply. Njoy Life...
  7. The large shuttle hook is part # 81952 (or 81993), the small is # 8603 (part # in parts book I have) and mine is stamped # 8654. The cross ref for the 8654 seems to be the 8603 or vise versa. The large shuttle has the tension screw on top and is to be used with large bobbin part # 82552. I use the small bobbin # 8604 in my current shuttle. All part #'s listed above are for use with the Singer 29/29K sewing machine. Were there some changes made to a particular 29 model and has another sub # to it that uses the larger items? A couple of sites claim these large items can be used on the 29-4... or am I reading mis-information on my searches? Thanks for the mod fix on the ring Wizcrafts! I don't know if I want to mod my machine just yet. Great mod for a locking mechanism though. I did notice that the upper head revolving bush friction spring was worn so I may start with replacing that to see if a little friction is restored. Njoy Life...
  8. Looks great to me too! You made it picture perfect with that type of wood background. I need to start stamping and carving leather soon. Njoy Life... Rick
  9. Hi folks, I'm still kinda new to the Singer 29-4 and have been using it now for about a week or two. Looking at parts on-line, I see there are two sizes of bobbins available... a small and large as well as the appropriate shuttle hook that the bobbin fits in. questions... How do I know what I have? I see no bobbin size option in the user manual. Are the two sizes a direct drop in replacement just being sure you have the right size shuttle hook? i.e. no need to change the shuttle carrier. I guess a few more yards of thread can make a difference in a production line. My needle plate has both large and small rounded ends. About 1/2" wide and 1" wide respectively and I can rotate to either. WHY? What is the propose of two sizes? My stitch length regulator did not seem to give me the max distance. I notice the bell crank lever had too much play within the ring slot. I removed, welded, grind and polished the little rounded end to virtually no play when fitted into the ring slot. The stitch length is better now and it sews just great. The so-called problem is now that the turning of the ring slide bar (butterfly). It turns too freely. When I had everything apart, I did a thorough degrease, cleaning and lube job. All friction spring wires are in place and nothing is missing, all parts accounted for and back in place and tightened. You can flick one wing with a finger and it will turn half way around. Should this be a concern? I'm sure more questions will pop up later. Njoy Life...
  10. Great job for being your first with thick leather. Sewing will get better in time. We have to take those baby steps at one time. The thing about making things yourself for family/friends or yourself is that you make it to how they/you want it. Keep up the good work and keep em coming. We like folks to share their works. Njoy Life...
  11. That belt should work fine if you want to spend and buy that much as well as buy the needed splicing kit. I don't know if the staple clamp will work on that material. Since you really don't need much, look at eBay for the belt. Search for " 5/16 leather belt ". 1/4" or 5/16" diameter will work though mine is and I prefer 5/16". You'll find a single belt or many footage for future use. As with most new belts, use it a bit and readjust as needed since they will stretch a bit. Njoy Life...
  12. I too just purchased the Singer 31-15 fairly recently. I am just getting started myself on using it. I maybe able answer a few of your questions though. 1) yes the machine will handle a #18 or #20 needle for 69 thread 2) no idea what point needed for that material. My machine will be used for leather 3) There is a small pin that is in the center of the tensioner assembly that is pressed by a lever on the inside of the head assembly. That pin may be missing or stuck. 4) there should always be some tension on the lower thread. To the point where it will not just drop if you only held the thread. Actual adjustment should be made with the thread size that is to be used. 5) mine too has felt on some of the top holes. They are only at certain holes though. Some oil points needs the oil to drip on an internal part. I myself have not tested the thread twist on any of my threads that I have used to play with. I have not yet purchased actual nylon or polyester thread yet and have only been using cotton thread to practice with. I have ordered 138 and 69 thread so that i can start making things. Practice time is over. No idea on thread on cone usage yet. I hope this helped a little. Someone with more knowledge may chime in. Njoy Life...
  13. Thanks for the props fellas! Woodworking is fun and YES these old iron ones do get fun and addicting to work on. My brother and friends were just talking about this... really? how many things out there are over 100 years old and still works as if just manufactured? I have not had any problems sewing a layer of leather or 3 on the two larger machines. I don't go too thick and I really don't feel the resistance of the needle piercing through the leather. I almost always use contact cement on all my projects right at the sewing line wherever I can. This prevents the slipping and misalignment of layers and adds that other step that some don't. One day I'll get that sewing machine that was specifically designed to be used with leather though. Just need to butter up the Mrs to let me buy AND bring in another 'toy'. OH! I almost forgot to share this (more wood working skills) --- How do I go between treadle to treadle. Is there a chair at each station? NOPE! I converted a basic rolling office chair to my ultra modern sewing chair. Now I can easily adjust the height as needed based on the machine being used to what is comfortable to me and still keep my sewing supplies close at hand as well as roll on over to the next machine. No need to stand up and walk over to the other machines anymore. Lazy I tell you! Pure LAZY! see... and now stained... Just another coat or seven of hand rubbed oil and she's good to go! It's amazing how a little thought can become a reality when you have the desire to create. (A little knowledge and the right tools helps a lot too though). Hobbies are fun... aren't they? Njoy Life...
  14. Just a little custom cell case I made for a friend. She started to bike ride and carrying a small purse with just the essentials was too bothersome. An ID, ATM or credit card and the cell phone was all that was needed to be carried. She asked and I requested her to stay away from the norm of the fanny or hip pack. Everyone and the kitchen sink uses those! You know I do custom leather and we both can create just what you want. She gave me her specs and I made this in my sleep. I thought I had a challange on my hands... Just a quick peek... cutting shape out... form fitted... ID+ card slots on back. It can hold up to 4 (2 slots at 2 each)... How she wanted it carried on her... close up... The design is full open that allows the blackberry to be used while it is still in its case. Full screen view, all functions accessible, etc. She wanted a removable strap so that she can throw the cell only section in her purse. One of the clips can be used to secure it on her pant belt loop if she wanted to. No need to remove from the case, un-clip and re-clip or re-holster etc. How many other cell phone cases have you seen that you can lift use and drop almost in one smooth motion without missing a beat at a steady bike pedaling pace? And this is no thin glove leather case. I wanted it thick and strong like no other out there. Needless to say, she was very pleased and as with all new ideas... a few changes are in the works. Njoy Life...
  15. Well I have been hand sewing leather for too long and I wanted to get a sewing machine to help speed things up a bit. I started with an old Singer 66-16 but that did not handle thin leather as well as I thought it would. I then tried a few others and the same thing. Then it turned out I liked the old machines so much I started to collect them. In under 3 months I had 14 antique Singer Sewing machines to my name. With the exception of one of which I don't know the date of manufacture, the youngest one I have was made in 1949 and the oldest way back in 1874. These thing are amazing! How they machined the parts way back then still impresses me. Well I have narrowed it down to 3 machines that are currently in the loft and being used. The choices are (all Singers and all treadles) 29-4 (1917), 31-15 (1916) and New Family 12 (1874). The 12 is a keeper just for the age and I'll see if it can do the very thin leather stuff. I'm still in the market for a large leather machine like the Cobra's but funds are not quite up to par for a new 'toy' as the wife calls it. Since we all like pics, here they are ready to sew... My 1917 Singer 29-4 sporting its new walnut table. I made the tabletop myself. Notice how it wraps around the base a little and it is a bit longer then the standard length. I even made new drawer slides for the original ones were worn out. Sews leather like there's nothing there... My 1916 Singer 31-15. This has got to be one of the quietest machines ever made IMHO. I can actually sew in the middle of the night and not piss off the Mrs with our bedroom door open and the loft is right next to the master bedroom. I only had to repair one drawer slide on this one... And last but not least, my 1874 Singer New Family 12. The oldest of the bunch. Sporting its new walnut tabletop I made. When purchased, it was a head only. What better way to accent a fiddle base then with a fiddle base tabletop? I removed an old top from another treadle so that the 12 can sew again for another 100+ years. It's so small and CUTE!... Did you notice the treadle runners. Placing a treadle on carpet makes the foot pedal bottom out on the carpet and causes a bumping/lifting effect = no good! These help lift the entire treadle up a bit so the pedal clears the carpet. Router'd and stained to get it all purdy look'n... I have learned a lot from another antiques sewing site from when I first bought my first sewing machine less then 3 months ago. Now all I have to do is to start using these more to get better at them and start creating leather goods. At least I can still sew even when the power goes out and I still have the hand sewing down packed so I'm set. Njoy Life...
  16. It's been over a year since I received my 1st stamp from Laser Gift Creations and it had a lot of uses. It did however start to deteriorate and it did not stamp legibly at times. I ordered 2 more custom stamps and I wanted to buy a replacement for the 1st, it was over a year old. We went back and forth MANY times on how I wanted my other logos and she was very patient with me. I know I went a lot overboard on the little pity changes I wanted to see and she hung in there and kept on working at it until I was satisfied. She even threw in an idea herself that I didn't think of and I went with it. When I told her I wanted another simple one like the 1st one because it no longer stamped correctly and I wanted to pay for it... low and behold she went ahead and replaced it at no charge for what had happened to it should not have happened. I should receive them this week and I'll post pics when I get them of what they look like stamped on leather. SUPER Customer Service and I am a customer for life. THANKS Brenda!!!!! Njoy...
  17. There are many styles of holsters for Flashlights and what you have seen are indeed holsters. Some of the ones I make are a work of art and some are basic. One design may work for one user but not another. my saying is, "you no longer have to settle", since many here can create them ourselves! Though it may just be me… my thoughts are still… when you look at a holster, what do you see? You see a holster. Did you ever think of having a holster so nice that you would not mind using it in public or better yet… WANTED to show it off? Have you ever owed a nice looking Flashlight that placing it on a holster was just wrong? How could you show it off being hidden or partially hidden behind a case no matter what material? I've always liked my open holster design but many don't. I never was concerned about getting a scratch on it by rubbing on a brick wall. I carry to use and so be it if it gets scratched. I may drop it on concrete and then what? If you take it out of the house unprotected, plan on it getting a bruise and no hurt feelings when it gets a boo boo. No I don't look to cause said damage on purpose but if it happens, no big deal. Battle scars, they call it, just gives character to our toys. I know of some that don't like holsters at all. What? Why? Do you think because they never found one that fits 'their' needs? I would lean towards that. They have tried and tested and never found one that made them happy so they gave up. They didn't settle but I bet they never gave 'custom' a chance. The 'ARC mania' SF-V and the little brother the Extreme II are just two good looking Flashlights (IMHO). Away with the basic cylinder shape, no knurling and shaped like no other and has a unique beauty all its own. (I have a problem, don't I?) Speaking of open design, is it possible to make a custom Leather Holster that has an open design that is so open that it's practically invisible? hmmm…? This is what I started with – just an idea - a desire to make something so different… Now here is the dual holster I completed to hold the two said Flashlights. Let's play, "Can You See The Holster"? I really gave a new definition to an Open Design Holster. This is by far the hardest design and the longest time to create. It is COMPLETELY AMBIDEXTROUS and with almost a 360 degree lockable tilts on both. I can also switch to single carry mode on the fly with no tools. It can be belt only, clipped to pants, wrist carried and soon to be legged strapped. This sports a fully exposed window with no beam diffuser. I always try to think out of the box and how can I be different. I climbed out of the box and got on a bus, 2 trains, 3 boats, 1 taxi, 2 planes and a camel to get far away from the box on this project. Njoy...
  18. It's been over a year now since her diagnoses and the wife had her first mammogram a week ago and all is fine. No sign of anything. She did not need the drip chemo which is a plus in my book. She only takes a small chemo pill a day. The radiation though took a major toll on her... it was bad the last several treatments and we are both glad it's over with. All the above is very good news but there is some bad news... He mother was diagnosed with stage 2 cancer several months ago. She already has gone through the lumpectomy and just finished her drip chemo treatment. She is now currently doing the daily radiation treatment. During her 4 chemo treatments, I went with her and met many patients and nurses. I decided to make various colored mystery bracelets for both patients and nurses. It was nice to see a smile on their faces as I placed it on their wrists. Though mother-in-law is no longer getting chemo, I still frequent the clinic to visit the patients and nurses. The nurses let me in though I have no family there. I try to have many colors on hand during my visits. here are just a few that I have to give/sell... I give them freely and ask for nothing. I even gave my personal python snake skin one away just because a patient liked it. The nurses/staff has mentioned that I should sell them there. They will put them on display at the check in counter for family members that may want one or more. I got to meet the office manager and her daughter in law and made them both several free leather gifts to do a bit of brown nose'n... It worked! Njoy...
  19. It's been some time since I posted. Yet here I am with another Python Snake Skin Flashlight holster. The Flashlight w/regular leather holster is my personal one. A friend in Australia has the same Flashlight but wanted a custom snake skin holster made. He wanted one with a 9 degree tilt, right side carry, tail 2cm above belt, belt only pancake style for an 1-1/4" (3cm) wide belt w/brass snaps. From his specs via PM from another forum, to paper... To this... and just a few more pics to show more of this beautiful creation... From just an idea… to reality. Am I good or what? Njoy...
  20. The leather used for the backing of the black one I use is about 7-8oz. That seems thick enough to prevent the head of the screw from pulling out. It gets nice and tight with a holster in place. The newer backings are not slotted like the original. They are made of two 7-8oz glued and sewn together and holes are made through both for the screws. This makes for a much stronger design. You don't get the fine adjustments like the slotted one yet the holes you make on the individual holsters themselves will make up for it. The holes made are of a set spacing so that I can place them where and how I want. Njoy...
  21. Most everyone has something they put into a leather case/holster (especially we here – I think?) Whether it is a cell phone, knife, Flashlight, multi-tool or a combination of two or more. We have seen them out there that can carry more then one item that I listed above. And like the "tool pouch" I posted on another thread, one has to 'adapt' to this EDC (every-day-carry) case/holster. i.e. a combo knife and Flashlight case. If you carry the case on your right and the knife slot is towards the back, what do you do if you want the knife slot towards the front... carry it on your left side??? NO! What if you don't want it to be a vertical draw like most everything is? Turn it sideways and duct tape it in place?... NO! Here I go again folks, thinking out of the box. This is my way of making it fit to most everyone's needs. I call it the "Universal Backing Leather System". This carrying method consists of several parts to make up "YOUR" ideal choice of carrying the EDC items that "YOU" choose and how you want to carry it. Again, this might not be for everyone, though it works for many others as well as for me. I have been using several versions for over two years now. My work EDC items in black leather... This holster sports the three items I carry everyday during my work hours. 1) Surefire L4 Flashlight --- 2) Swiss multi-tool (SwissTool) --- 3) Motorola MPX220 cell phone. I carry this set on my front right side of my body. It does not hinder my needing to get into my pocket or poke me in the side when seated. YES! YES! THANK YOU!!! You may ask…"what is so special about that holster? It's just a holster that holds three items! Here is the secret... With the use of Chicago Screws, it becomes a COMPLETELY modular system that enables you to place what you want where you want. The end of… "I have to settle to what's out there". The backing is about the size of a credit card. IS THAT JUST UNHEARD OF OR WHAT!!!? More pics… Horizontal two item with flat carry on the multi-tool… I am right handed and I will use the multi-tool more with my right then my left so I want to be able to grab it with my right hand in one smooth motion. I can also grab the Flashlight with my right hand and it will be in the 'ready' to use position. My thumb is on the button when drawn from its holster. I exposed a good portion of the multi-tool for easier access when wearing gloves. The picture shows how you would see it on me so picture yourself behind it to get a better perspective. Vertical two item with tall carry on the multi-tool... More pics to show what this Universal Backing Leather System can do… Notice on the picture above that the multi-tool is reversed? PURE GENESIS I TELL YOU! The above picture shows the one item backing utilizing a belt clip. And if you want it tilted… (made for a friend on another forum, his picture, his mod. I still need to complete) Notice the difference from the tall and flat carry for the multi-tool? My design enables me to mix and match the items I want to carry and how I want to carry them for right or left hand use. I can switch from vertical or horizontal, place the Flashlight to the right, left, top or bottom of the multi-tool, switch the position or orientation of the Flashlights, cell or multi-tool. I can carry two Flashlights or two multi-tools on one backing etc. etc. I made it completely modular so that I can replace only one holster should it get damaged. I make the holsters specifically for the item it holds and make more for other Flashlights or items as needed. WHAT AM I TO DO WITH MYSELF!!!? And the best part is, for us leather buffs, is that you get to make it the way you want to. I just wanted to share a new idea. Want to see my "Way out of the box thinking cell phone carry method?" It is like no other! Njoy…
  22. Main leather measured and cut… Sewing 'stop' on head wrap… A low profile head wrap is used to allow it to fit the current bezels with the hex shape. It also makes for a shorter distance vertical draw. Belt clips… Gluing snake skin… Head wrap skinned and sewn… Full covered one almost complete… Trim work of the open style… The strap has a screw that is used to set the position of the strap for front or rear unsnap use. It can also be completely removed and changed for other lengths as needed for different diameter bodies. NO METAL TOUCHES THE FLASHLIGHT ANYWHERE! I never did like the way you had to pull the Flashlight straight up on a vertical carry holster. It can bind on my body or cover flap, etc. Both these holsters offer something unique. They may look like your typical vertical carry holster when snapped closed… yet unsnapping it reveals a special 'auto' tilt which makes the tail end of the Surefire 3P swing away from the body an additional 1-1/4 inch +. This makes for an easier removal of said Flashlight. Take a close look of the closed and open pictures below. I like putting new ideas on old classics. The end of straight up draw. Closed… Open… The open one will also hold the other 'C' series Surefires… Making of the body strap... Finished Projects… Njoy…
  23. I have not gotten used to the idea of lace work for my leather products I use. For me, it seems to make the leather cases/wallets larger/thicker. I am pondering on making something and at least to give it a try for I have nothing with lace. Your cell phone case is bringing me much closer to lace work for you have done a EXCELLENT JOB!!!! Sorry to say this again. On my cell phone case, I went way out of the box also like my tool pouch. Njoy...
  24. Well folks, you asked for it and now you got it. I hope this doesn't constitute hijacking of a thread started by another. First, here is a picture of it in the plain Jane Samsonite attaché case I wrote about. See how it all fits nice and snug in there along with the other tools such as meters, larger ratchets and such?... Next - Here is the main portion of the Tool System. This part holds most of the tools that I used most of the time. All tools bought from a Snap-On truck. Showing the front and back... This next picture shows how the two sections come apart. There are times when I don't need all the tools so I carry only what I need... Coming up is a close up of how the tools stay in place while inverted. See the strap that goes between all the handles? Only the pliers need the retention strap due to the weight of them, all the other tools have a smooth friction fit. I thought of everything on this bad boy! Okay Okay... You may be asking... How does all this attach to the body? Well here ya go! I used my daughter as the model. First - this picture shows the entire Tool System and how it fits on the body. I bet no one guessed a shoulder harness. Notice how the main tools are within hands reach at rest? Looking down at them will let you know if anything is missing since everything has its own slot. See! Even over 10 years ago I liked and thought about Flashlights. Look at its position. I can turn it on and place it back in its slot and use it as a waist light, pouring lumens directly in front of me. PURE GENIUS!!! Here are a couple up close shots... This next picture shows the retainer strap the wraps around the belt to prevent the holsters from swinging away from the body. AM I GOOD OR WHAT??? See the quick clip? more on that soon. Also, notice the ring directly below the belt hiding behind the hanging heart key fob. That ring is used with a leather belt strap that has a snap ring that hooks onto that ring. That is how I can carry additional loads up a ladder. Wrap the leather belt strap around the item, clip it to the ring and off you go hands free. I have tested this to 50 pounds so far. YES! YES THANK YOU! Next - Leg strap. Again, notice the quick clip? Well folks, here we go. I told you this can be released from the body in one second - Here's how. Place a hand on each of those quick clips as shown below... A simple pinch on both clips and VIOLA!... I didn't have the two-way radio leather pouch pictured that goes in the slot on the back of the shoulder holster. This places the radio antenna completely out in the open for maximum efficiency and the wired lapel mic clips on the front of the shoulder strap... This picture is showing some of the Snap-On tools on this part of the System. See the socket set? That ratchet pivots 90 degrees so that it can be used as a nut driver. This also has most of the hex or allen bits. WHAT AM TO DO WITH MYSELF??? Even the Flashlight is by Snap-On... Well folks there you have it. The Tool System that took many years to develop. Now you know there are no limits to what you can do with genuine leather. Taking a few ideas from other projects and combining it into one. 1) Shoulder carry idea from gun shoulder holster 2) Two-Way radio slot on back of harness idea from firefighter 3) Tools strapped to leg idea from leg strap gun holster I also bet no one knew I had the pliers on their handles. This makes for a much smaller pouch/holster and how I was able to fit all those tools on such a small backing. While this setup will not be for everyone, it works PERFECT for me. My own leather tool system that I designed and built for myself for there was never a tool pouch that met my needs. Like I mentioned, I went WAY OUT of the thinking box on this one!!! Njoy... *edit* spelling
  25. Keep in mind that these sheaths were made before I knew about edge coating. I'll keep them as is for now. This sheath is for my Schrade PH2. I have looked high and low for this knife many years ago for I liked the shape and style. This holster is one of my pinnacle leather making career ones. This is a horizontal only carry for right hand use (since I am right handed). I have this right in front and it is very tight against the body. No bending restriction of it poking me in the front or side or..? The unique thing on this holster is that I placed two flat rare earth magnets within the sheath that gives the knife a smooth friction fit. The magnets are covered so that they do not scratch the blade and are strong enough that they can hold the knife in place inverted without the retainer strap. The back side has three loops to insert the belt through. The pant belt loop can be placed between them to prevent it from sliding along the belt. Next is the one for my Emerson/Neeley SPECWAR knife. The slot on the tip of the sheath are for a leg strap or inverted shoulder carry. This too can be carried vertically on the belt or horizontally in the back. My design was to keep it tight against the body should you wear it on the back belt line. The two silver dots are screws that can secure this sheath to other leather straps, change the carry angle or secure it to other gear. This one is for my Cold Steel Magnum Tanto II with San Mai blade. Right hand, vertical only and very tight to the body. Next - Necklace style carry or vertical belt, pictures will explain, also ambidextrous. The cord you see is the lanyard used for neck carry, the knife will be inverted while carried this way. The folder is a Cold Steel w/San Mai Blade. Close up pics shows how the knife can be turned as well as the retaining strap. Notice the sheath looks like it is shaped for a double edged knife. That is made to accommodate the knife in either direction. *edit* spelling Njoy...
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