As for the archaeological area to check out, try an author by the name of Olaf Goubitz from the Netherlands. He wrote an extremely in formative book on belt pouches from the medieval period to the 16th century. The book is called "Purses in Pieces". All of the examples come from actual digs and shows a lot of re-construction/re-creation of many of the pouches. A lot of the drawings of the actual finds show that the pieces were stamped with patterns and designs. This author also as a book on foot wear from the same time periods.
There are a series if archaeological books based on the finds in York, England and atleast one of them is on the leather finds of shoes, shealths, and cases. I hope this gets you in the right direction.
Jana