cumberlandhighpower

Hello Monica, Thanks for the reply to my post. So 7/8oz seems to work best on your pancakes? It seems to be the general view, to use 7/8... What tannery do you use?

I forgot to ask Ryano, What kind of stitching do you do? What kind of items do you plan to make? The Randall/Campbell machines the premier machine for stitching certain heavy leather articles, but have many limitations outside of precision stitching small leather goods... They have a narrow throat (about 8 inches) and cannot sew woven synthetics...And no reverse. If you plan to sew any techical textle or vinyl, you may be better off with a standard Unison Feed Threaded Needle Machine like the Adler 205 or the Seiko/Juke Clones... Randall/Campbell Machines do not sew with Nylon thread well either, they have all kind of tension problems with it....(Some may have success in limited areas). You pretty much have to stick to Polyester or Linen on one..... They are not fast machines either, I have read claims of 300 stitches a min on a Campbell/Randall, I simply do not believe it. More like 120/ min if you want your machine to last any time at all. Back tacking is for all purposes impossible as well. I do it on mine, but i have a special set of needle/awl that I've modified for a special job. They are without equal on small leather goods, but have many limiations on anything else. If you're really looking for a universal machine, I would buy an adler 205 or a Seiko style machine....

Hello, I am searching for a US distributor of Pacific Leather. Pacific is a tannery in Vancouver, BC Canada and they make chrome/top grain leather... Until recently I bought Pacific Leather through Weaver Leather in Mt Hope, OH...However they seem to have dropped most of Pacific's leather so they can sell a lower grade of "Tanned in India" leather in it's place.... Very bad news for me, the Indian replacement isn't nearly as good a grade or having similar properties... If anyone has a lead on a company that distributes Pacific's leather, please post a follow up. Best, CS

2 layers of 6/7oz leather gives the perfect feel and heft. (1-1/2") I use Herman Oak 6/7 and leave the inner leather undyed. For final application, use Fiebings Leather Balm, it is easy to use and has a decent atom wax content. This combination makes the finest carry belt on the planet. The only "downside" to a double layer belt is that it cannot be stocked finished in 1 length and cut to order, it has to be made in the actual length to start with.... a belt made from 2 layers of 8oz has more body/support and is stronger-although it is a bit excessive for the general carrying public... A belt made from 2 layers 6/7 is about the max you can get though most jeans belt loops comfortably... Most major makers (Galco, Bianchi, Milt Sparks..) also use 6/7 oz. A major thing to remember is to use GOOD leather. In this day and age, there is very little of it around, Herman Oak is the only leather I would advise for belts. Hope I could help CS

Thanks for the advice/direction on my questions guys. So, it seems from both replies that 7/8 is the leather of choice? I am after a set weight to stick to..I am tooling up to make pancakes on a mass production scale with larger service autos in mind.. Glocks/Sigs/1911s/Etc as a well as J and K frame Class revolvers.... Basically I want to make every holster from the same weight leather, but to have a reasonable and fairly firm feel on the thumb break action. After reflection and reading the posted replies, how does 8/9 Herman Oak sound? Sound too heavy still?? I'll die cut all parts and mold in a 6 ton press....

Hello, What weight/s of leather is everyone using for pancake (Belt) holsters? I am up in the air between choosing 8/9 or 9/10oz... I have examined several pancakes from Bianchi, some are a light 7/8 or 8/9, and a a few are lined with suede pushing them to 13oz!! I would like to build pancakes with a more firm feel on the break action..I am leaning on the 9/10oz weight... I realize Bianchi Holsters are W&C leather, and Herman Oak (My supplier) is a bit more firm, does 9/10 seem too heavy for a molded pancake? Any suggestions or thoughts? Best CS

Hello, Anyone know where i can find or download a copy of a user manual for an Atom 999 27 ton clicker? I recently purchased a pretty nice one, although I do not know much about using it. (I am only familiar with mechanical USMC C type and Reese A Clickers). This atom seems to be a very good machine, clean, nice looking and well built. Anyone have any issues or things to watch for on this machine? thanks CS

I use Herman Oak Leather daily here in my Ohio shop... Herman Oak is ROLLED, if you buy the Oak Tanned Strap/tooling 10/11oz or thinner. They do not Roll the 11/13oz skiriting and heavier. Herman sells the 10/11oz and lighter by the sqft, 11/13oz Skirting is by side, and heavier is generally by pound. It is beautiful leather, well worth the price! Best Clint shields

Hello, I am looking for a maker of magnesium embossing/logo plates for embossing leather, anyone have any good leads ona fairly priced maker/supplier? The plate maker I usually use is Canton Graphic Arts in Canton Ohio (Weaver Leather recommended them). However in the past year I just cant get any service out of them, Last design/s I sent, they kept promising, promising andnearly a year later, no stamps!!! Seems to be the same way around this time, I have recently submitted another design, and not a word from them as yet...I am tired of this. I do not recommend Canton Graphic Arts, IF YOU WANT YOUR ITEM!!!! The sad thing, is that they generally charged around $38 for a plate, can anyone suggest a maker anywhere near close to this? Thanks for any input Best CS

I have a randall/Campbell, But it's not for sale. I am just making a post. I paid 1200 for mine, and when I decided to buy one, i advertised on leatherworker australia, and a few other boards. Within a month I had several leads, and 3 good machines at 3 good prices. 1200, 1500 and 1850. This was in 2006. You'd be surprised how often you come across a good deal on a randall or campbell. I have seen a few sell cheaply on Ebay, although they're somewhat rare. Ebay generally brings 1100-2000 or so for nice clean machines. 4000 for a used machine from Campbell-Randall is too high, they're just selling the same used machine you'll find anywhere else. If you opt for a rebuilt one, you'll be much happier, rebuilt machines will last a lifetime without failure. The Randall I have gets used about 20 hrs a week, for the past 3 years. Just be patient and advertise, you'll eventually get a reasonable offer from someone. (And be prepared to drive). -CS

I have recently found a local man with a 25 ton atom clicker for sale, he's offered it to me for 1900 dollars. Does anyone have one like this for sale, and can beat this price? If not for sale, does anyone have experience with these clickers? Is 1900 a fair market price? This Atom has a control for the left hand with 3 buttons, and a control on the right for the right thumb only What do the three buttons on the left hand control do? Thanks!

hello, what weight of leather is suggested for pocket and wallet holsters? is 5/6oz too thin for front pocket holsters? thanks guys!

its good you've had success with albest so far i have never had any good success with them. have you tried CDL clips? I suspect if you did, you'd never go back. you might pay a bit more, but quality is great. I use approx a case of CDL clips (1,000) every 2 months-and only found about 4 that I would consider rejects...

thanks for the followups men. the keltec rings is a new item, not on the website yet though... are the keltecs you mention the "nonguns" ? you got all 3 for $100 from keltec? or..who? thanks clint

albest clips: sharp edges, uneven temper, less appealing curves, uneven powder coat finish. often powder coat clips come with traces of rust. on the other hand, CDL spring (larry leatherman) makes high grade near perfect clips. Bianchi, Galco, Mitch Rosen...just about every known big holster name uses his clips.

WTB rings blue guns for the following models: keltec Gen 2 .380 (3PAT) walther ppk used is fine, i am looking for something to mold some pocket holsters with. please reply with price and availability. thanks much!

thanks for the ideas everyone, any suggestion is good. the particular finish i am after is sprayed on, somewhat "tacky" i am guessing may have some percentage of beeswax? for sure not neatsfoot, i use this by the bucket on other items. (thanks again for the thoughts).

does anyone know the finish used on bianchi/galco and similar holsters? it seems to have a unique feel, somwhat soft and a bit "tacky" not a hard wax, that's for sure. i've gone through many different finishes, resolene, leather balm/atom wax, bag cote, just about anything available commercially, but no match to that satin "tacky" finish. any ideas what I should be looking for? thanks!

look up cdl spring company (larry leatherman) he's located in CAL. he makes/stocks 1-1/4" clips best springs on the market, qualitywise. whatever you do, dont buy albest. they're poor quality made in nyc by imported indian labour best regards clint shields

hi avery, what do you have in mind? i have a fully equipped shop, machinery and such. basic leather dog collars? how many, have a sample pattern? best regards clint

hello, looking for a spare shuttle for a randall stitcher. (campbell type). I'm down to 3 and could use a spare. used shuttle. please contact me with price/availability. thanks! -Clint Shields

Thanks for your thoughts Campbell-Randall. I think the machine was rebuilt by Randall...actually. (has full set of guards/shrouds, paint, randall marked blades, typical of randall rebuilds i've seen). everything looks very well done and professional. I checked the fiber roll again, it's factory new. after you mentioned a possibility of shaft, improper assembly, etc..i got to thinking. if i place a 3/16" spacer under the lower blade shaft bearings, everything moves "up" and works perfectly. my question to the experts at randall is this: what are the part numbers on the shaft bearings? i took mine apart and have 4 bearings, 2 different part numbers. (appears right and left judging from how the oiling ports are drilled). so, are the lower shaft bearings the same as the top bearings? ever encounter this problem on a 132 strapper? Thanks again for all your assistance -Clint

thanks for the reply. although, that was the first thing i tried... i have the table dropped to the max-still not enough. any other possibility?

Hello, I recently purchased a randall 132 14" strap cutter at auction... this machine appears very clean and fully rebuilt, but i seem to have encountered a hitch... is there a limitation on what thickness this strapper can handle?? I have adjusted the front work table as low as it goes and I can only get a 10oz side through it without it binding up. the top roller and the stripper plate only allow enough room to handle a 10oz side. there is no adjustment to bring the blades higher, and after careful inspection the blades are indeed new and not sharpened undersided... also, the gears that drive the roller and blade shaft are in perfect placement..not too close together and not too far apart. everything appears great, except that it wont feed anything thicker than 10oz! has anyone encountered such a problem with a randall strapper like this? what was your solution? thanks for the future reply clint shields